Thinking about buying an 88 GT. few questions
- Thread starter cb18201
- Start date
Aaron
20+ Year Stangneter 
You can do some mild mods such as exhaust, pulleys, a mild cam, etc. You just can't do anything that will significantly change the air to fuel ratio. If you really want to do major changes to the car, you can get rid of the speed density setup and do a mass air conversion. But if you didn't plan on any major mods, leave it the way it is.
MASS air conversion instructions from http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html FREE
A9L computer from junkyard $100-$150
70MM MAF from 94-95 Mustang GT - $40-$70
MASS Air wiring harness kit $30-$85
The whole thing is probably less than $300 using junkyard parts.
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...
Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 58 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock air ducting. Wiring plugs right in with no changes.
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$80. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
A9L computer from junkyard $100-$150
70MM MAF from 94-95 Mustang GT - $40-$70
MASS Air wiring harness kit $30-$85
The whole thing is probably less than $300 using junkyard parts.
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...
Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 58 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock air ducting. Wiring plugs right in with no changes.
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$80. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
jrichker - does the different transfer curve function of the 94/95's pose any drivability issues when using one of those maf's for a fox body car/computer?
cb18201 - the thing to watch out for when modding the speed density cars is anything that significantly alters the low speed/idle manifold vacuum characteristics. The speed density system doesn't measure the amount of air entering the engine, it calculates it. One of the data points it uses in these calculations is the manifold vacuum which it measures with a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. One of the traits of more aggressive valve timing (different cams) is that they often reduce manifold vacuum at idle - and that gives the speed density system fits. If you're planning heads/intake/exhaust mods with the stock cam you should be fine.
cb18201 - the thing to watch out for when modding the speed density cars is anything that significantly alters the low speed/idle manifold vacuum characteristics. The speed density system doesn't measure the amount of air entering the engine, it calculates it. One of the data points it uses in these calculations is the manifold vacuum which it measures with a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. One of the traits of more aggressive valve timing (different cams) is that they often reduce manifold vacuum at idle - and that gives the speed density system fits. If you're planning heads/intake/exhaust mods with the stock cam you should be fine.
Check my signature for latest mods on speed density and 19# injectors. EEC took to it like I never made a change.
89MustangGX
I have nothing productive to add!
You can makep lenty of power with speed density -- contrary to what seems to be popular belief with alot of people.
Myself, I won't even think about converting the car I have now unless I run into drivability issues. If you keep away from a wild cam, you can do an awful lot to the car and still be fine. Making 300+ RWHP and keeping the SD is not impossible at all.
Myself, I won't even think about converting the car I have now unless I run into drivability issues. If you keep away from a wild cam, you can do an awful lot to the car and still be fine. Making 300+ RWHP and keeping the SD is not impossible at all.
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