Engine This guy needs the help of this forum

[Mustang5L5]

Nice! Glad you found it!

 

[ta66]

Thank you! We’re not done yet, and I’m sure there will be more things to do but I’d like to express my utmost appreciation for all the help and advice we’ve gotten from the members of this forum.

 

[AeroCoupe]

You still need to swap out those intakes just because I remember being 17 and how slow my T-Bird was and wishing it was a little faster to keep up with the Mustangs...ha ha ha!!!

 

[b_arrington]

You still need to swap out those intakes just because I remember being 17 and how slow my T-Bird was and wishing it was a little faster to keep up with the Mustangs...ha ha ha!!!

It's on the list!

It really was a eureka moment when we realized the ACT sensor plug had not been extended over to the sensor in the intake tube. Some wire, a couple heat-shrink connectors, and some loom and we were set. Many fists were bumped!

Thomas drove to school this morning and pulled the codes.

• 54 was gone. Success!
• 79, 81, and 82 remain but not worried about them.
• New code: 85. No surprise because the CANP connector is now open and there's no Evap canister or purge solenoid. We have a spare ACCT sensor that could be plugged into the connector just to turn off the code.
• New code: 33. EGR not responding. We disconnected this plug during the continuity tests. Initial suspicion is the plug is not seated correctly.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Code 81 and 82 you can ignore. You can put some resistors in the plugs if it bothers you and you'll never see the codes again. Leaving them doesn't change anything how the car runs.

Code 85. You can also ignore. I assume the gas cap is vented anyway.

Code 79 is AC/Defrost was on during the testing

Code 33 does turn the EGR function off. Is this system functional on your car? Most folks delete it? The code 33 turns the function off, so short of an EGR leak into the engine, this shouldn't affect how car runs.

Long story short, codes indicate the ECU/engine is running properly. How does it feel?

 

[b_arrington]

Code 81 and 82 you can ignore. You can put some resistors in the plugs if it bothers you and you'll never see the codes again. Leaving them doesn't change anything how the car runs. Excellent, not worried about those codes. Probably not worth the effort to do anything.

Code 85. You can also ignore. I assume the gas cap is vented anyway. Yes, not worried about it.

Code 79 is AC/Defrost was on during the testing Agree

Code 33 does turn the EGR function off. Is this system functional on your car? Most folks delete it? The code 33 turns the function off, so short of an EGR leak into the engine, this shouldn't affect how car runs. It was working as far as we know, but have not looked at it in detail. The code is new since yesterday.

Long story short, codes indicate the ECU/engine is running properly. How does it feel?

Thomas it ran fine in the short drive to school. Thought it sounded different. He'll drive it more this afternoon. I think he should drive it for a tank of gas and check the milage again. I'm searching eBay for proper upper intake as the next project.

 

[b_arrington]

Thank you! We’re not done yet, and I’m sure there will be more things to do but I’d like to express my utmost appreciation for all the help and advice we’ve gotten from the members of this forum.

Jeez, you sound like me.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Get an Explorer upper and lower as you will pay the same price.

www.car-part.com

What you are looking for are '96-'01 Ford Explorer or '97-'01 Mercury Mountaineer as they had the 5.0's. The egr passage in the upper and lower wend away late '97.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I agree. Looking onllline I see HO Intakes selling for $120+ plus shipping. You might as well put that $$ towards an explorer intake.

You will want to get an early one with the EGR passages. F87E-BA lower manifold.

 

[Noobz347]

Don't even [think] about spending money on an HO intake.

I have an upper and lower you can have for shipping if it comes to that. It's off of my 86.

 

[AeroCoupe]

So then you have to ask yourself stock upper and lower for shipping costs (call it $75) or and Explorer upper and lower for $200 (hopefully you can find one local up in the NE) which one would you get? Is the performance gain now and what it can do late on down the road worth the extra $125 now?

I would not hesitate and get the Explorer upper and lower but I a cannot pass up any kind of hp and torque gains for that kind of money and if you decide to do some better heads later down the road the Explorer intakes will handle them especially if you get TMoss to port the lower (do a search here to track him down).

Good thread on the swap here:

Explorer Intake Gain

My friend has an 88 5.0 non MAF. Stock except for headers but still has stock cats. He says he wants to change the stock intake to the explorer intake. I told him I doubt it would be worth it unless he at least changed the TB and deleted the cats. I know the stock heads suck too. What say...

stangnet.com

 

[Mustang5L5]

1986 was the smaller upper intake. Not that any HO is better than the other, but the 87+ uppers are a bit better. The 87+ HO throttle body is also bigger.

E6SE-9425-C3B (58mm opening)
E7ZE-9425-C4B (63mm opening)
E7ZE-9425-E4A (63mm opening)
E8ZE-9425-E4A (63mm opening)
F0ZE-9425-A4A (63mm opening)
F0ZE-9425-A5A (63mm opening)

Lowers are the same. Only difference is some cosmetic stuff.

E6SE-9K461-D3A
E6SE-9K461-D5A