This is what I got.

[DRock9]

Heads - Holley Systemax $1300 - Edelbrock Performer $1140
Intake - Holley Systemax $570 - Edelbrock Performer RPM 2 $600 (Difference between regular Performer?)

Cam - TF Stage 1 $190
Gaskets - Fel-Pro $80
Pushrods - Ford $35
Lifters - Ford $110
Hardware - ???
Roller Rockers - Ford $320
Valve Covers - Holley $68
Head Studs - ARP $115
Timing Chain - Comp Cams $40
Injectors - Ford $290
MAF - C&L 76mm $180
TB - PP $145
Fuel Pump - Walbro $100
______________________________________________________________

Holley Kit - $2400 Cam, Upper/Lower Intake, Timing Chain, Push Rods, Cylinder Heads and Head Bolts.
Edelbrock Kit - EFI???

Air/Fuel Controller + Tune - ???


Can someone help me fill in the blanks?
What size intake valve should I get with Holley Heads? 1.9" or 2.02"
What is the difference between Eddy's Performer and Performer RPM2?
If I buy say an intake or heads will they come with all complete hardware?
Does Eddy sell a EFI Top End kit?
How much would a tune run me and would I need to buy an AFC?

Any comments on my list? Am I missing something? If you are going to reccomend something keep it Holley/Eddy because I get good deals on their parts.

I am new to this so I don't know if I picked the right cam but I want very good top end, bottom end I don't care much about since when I am not racing I shift no later than 2,000RPM. I don't want it to seem like I lost any when compared to what I have on there now.

I also will be running a 100-150 wet shot of nitrous for the track. I am excited to finally be piecing together my build as I have been preparing for this for a long time.

Thanks for any and all help!

 

[jrichker]

If the car is mainly street driven, pick heads with small port volumes and small valves. This keeps the flow velocity high and improves street performance. The same goes for the cam. A conservative cam will give you lots of kick on the street. What you want on a street car is a broad, flat torque curve with minimum drop off as the RPM's increase. This gives you instant response when you step on the gas.

For a track car, you will want to move the power band up the RPM range. Bigger ports, valves and a wilder cam make an engine with less low end power and you have wind the RPM’s up past 3K to get any pull. Once it passes 3K, it should pull hard up to the redline.

You can drive a street car on the track and be OK. If you drive a strip car on the street you will have a disappointing time when you get stuck in traffic. The engine will never get to wind up RPM’s where it runs good.

 

[DRock9]

Thanks a lot! I was browsing around Corral and found this thread:
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=711858&highlight=gt40p

I cannot believe those times! I might be looking for an explorer motor to drop into my stang, wow!