This looks like the place to be!

FL_66 · Dec 28, 2009

First some background:

The mustang was owned by her father in 67 and was parked behind his then owned gas station/auto body shop. When My Wife turned 16, "10 years ago" he did a complete restoration of the car for her.

The car is red with black interior. it is a coupe with 40K original miles on it. It is a 200ci Auto.

NOW:

I have carried the car with me as I have moved in the MIL, "I am out now" and the car currently is sitting in my garage.

I purchased another 66 v-8, auto for 200$ that a tree had fallen on. I have taken all of the drive line out of the damaged car and trying to decide what to do to our car.

Future:
I want to build the car to be streetable, fast, and something to drive to work occasionally as well as car shows. I want to keep it auto and use parts that I already have.

I don't know what to do to make things reliable and be able to handle some power. I don't want the car to be a slug, but I would like to work with what I have.

I look forward to being a part of stangnet,

James

2+2GT · Dec 28, 2009

As you change over the car to V8, you'll want to check all the parts for condition. You'll need more than the drive line, you'll need the whole front suspension, rear axle, ebrake cables, all sorts of small parts.

If you will be driving the car hard, get OE style disc brakes. If just for fun, the drums will be fine. A dual master would be good either way.

Lower the upper control arms 1" to improve handling and "radial tune" the suspension. Best thing since sliced bread.
http://site.cobranda.com/tech/aarms.pdf

GT springs, 1" front bar, and GR-2 shocks if you want more handling upgrade.

2" stock GT style dual exhaust. With 289HP exhaust manifolds.

C9OZ-6250-C camshaft, heads port-matched to the exhaust, 4V Edelbrock Performer intake and Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, distributor re-curved for performance.

Traction Master bars on the rear, especially if you go manual transmission. If you do, go with the 5-speed T5 transmission. Easy conversion.

If either car has PS, consider using it. If you don't, make sure you at least use the 4-turn steering gearbox.

Notice I have not included all sorts of stuff you see on every project car in the magazines. I'm talking "bang for the buck here". You want to impress people at cruise night with your ability to spend money, by all means get the exotic brakes, underhood chrome, MSD ignition, and so on.

woodsnake · Dec 28, 2009

Go ahead and fill out your location data, you never know who lives near you that may have what you're looking for...

tx65coupe · Dec 29, 2009

Welcome to the forums.

You will need to change quite a bit to convert the I6 to a V8. I did it to mine and it was not that bad to do.

Like was already stated, you will need the front springs, steering linkage, etc. You will also need the 8 inch rear end and the V8 transmission. This would be the perfect time to upgrade to the AOD since you want to keep it an automatic. This is an fairly easy conversion. Overdrive will make the car much more fun to drive and it will get better fuel economy.

I would also recommend converting to disc brakes in the front with either the stock style or Granada and a dual MC.

I don't have power steering but have a quick ratio box and I think its awesome, well except for parallel parking. LOL...

2+2GT · Dec 29, 2009

tx65coupe said:
I would also recommend converting to disc brakes in the front with either the stock style or Granada and a dual MC.

I don't have power steering but have a quick ratio box and I think its awesome, well except for parallel parking. LOL...

I'm not a fan of the Granada conversion. Oversize hub (makes wheel choice a bit limited) undersize rotor, oversize tie rod end hole, slightly mislocated steering arm and limit stop, and you gotta shell out $100 for a wheel alignment. The stock type brake uses the same spindle as the drums, eliminating all of these problems.

I have no PS, and have the 4-turn box, and for 15 years I had the Shelby quick steer kit. Parking that gave me forearms like Popeye.

FL_66 · Dec 29, 2009

Thanks for the replies. I have the WHOLE drive line. Fan to rearend. all of it has been taken out of the donar. I also cut the whole front suspension out because I didn't know what I would need. "front of spring perch and back of spring perch cut".

I'm not on a Tight budget. I already have a front disk conversion, and I'm think about the Lincon mark VIII"?" rear disk conversion.

What do I need to do to the C4 to beef it up?

Neither car has power steering. or brakes or AC, so I won't add them for now.

I woud like to do all the suspension first "front end disk, rear axle, disk" then Have a roller while I get the motor and tranny redone.

I just want to make sure I get the proper upgrades done to the Trans.

I'm thinking Stroker for the motor, Keep in mind I am on a Budget, but lets say 10k ish...

Thanks for the help guys,

James
Destin, FL

rbohm · Dec 29, 2009

how fast do you want to go? since you want a daily driver, but not a slug, why not keep the six and drop a turbo on it? check out Ford Six Performance Home/Index for good solid information on building an inline six for good power and fuel economy. also since you want to show this car, you will get better responses if you keep the six since most people are building V8's these days. if you have your heart set on an engine swap, by all means go ahead and do it, but i think you will find it cheaper in the long run to build the six.

degins · Dec 29, 2009

rbohm said:
how fast do you want to go? since you want a daily driver, but not a slug, why not keep the six and drop a turbo on it? check out Ford Six Performance Home/Index for good solid information on building an inline six for good power and fuel economy. also since you want to show this car, you will get better responses if you keep the six since most people are building V8's these days. if you have your heart set on an engine swap, by all means go ahead and do it, but i think you will find it cheaper in the long run to build the six.

Agreed. The 200 CID is a nice reliable engine with a bullet proof 7 main bottom end that gives good low end torque. My only complain about the 200 design is that the intake manifold is integral with the cylinder head (one piece). The heads tend to crack from the plenum and through the valve seats. The heads can be replaced with a more traditional design from an Australian straight 6.

For those owners wishing to retain the 6 cylinder engine, rear end, and drive train components, we now offer a 4 lug version of our Granada based SWAP.2 kit. It features the small diameter bearing snout. We include a 6 to 8 cylinder steering linkage package with these kits. CSRP Granada spindle feature correct steering geometry for 65-66 or 67-73 (we make two types). The 11" rotor and corresponding caliper will not fit under the original 13" wheels so later model or after market wheels are necessary.

rbohm · Dec 29, 2009

degins said:
Agreed. The 200 CID is a nice reliable engine with a bullet proof 7 main bottom end that gives good low end torque. My only complain about the 200 design is that the intake manifold is integral with the cylinder head (one piece). The heads tend to crack from the plenum and through the valve seats. The heads can be replaced with a more traditional design from an Australian straight 6.

you can also swap on the argentine head as well, oyu will have to use custom headers though as the argie heads use a different exhaust pattern. or if you want you can pony up the dough for an aluminum head from classicinlines.com. mike is looking for a new foundry for casting up the heads that wont charge an arm and a leg, and be reliable in producing the head. you can get the aussie and argie heads from classicinlines as well, if they have them in stock.

tx65coupe · Dec 30, 2009

FL_66 said:
Thanks for the replies. I have the WHOLE drive line. Fan to rearend. all of it has been taken out of the donar. I also cut the whole front suspension out because I didn't know what I would need. "front of spring perch and back of spring perch cut".

I'm not on a Tight budget. I already have a front disk conversion, and I'm think about the Lincon mark VIII"?" rear disk conversion.

What do I need to do to the C4 to beef it up?

Neither car has power steering. or brakes or AC, so I won't add them for now.

I woud like to do all the suspension first "front end disk, rear axle, disk" then Have a roller while I get the motor and tranny redone.

I just want to make sure I get the proper upgrades done to the Trans.

I'm thinking Stroker for the motor, Keep in mind I am on a Budget, but lets say 10k ish...

Thanks for the help guys,

James
Destin, FL

There is no way I would keep the C4. Why do you want to keep it? The non OD transmissions make the car so much less fun if you ask me. Why not an AOD swap?

I do have AC, but don't have power steering or power brakes. My car does just fine with out it.

tx65coupe · Dec 30, 2009

2+2GT said:
I'm not a fan of the Granada conversion. Oversize hub (makes wheel choice a bit limited) undersize rotor, oversize tie rod end hole, slightly mislocated steering arm and limit stop, and you gotta shell out $100 for a wheel alignment. The stock type brake uses the same spindle as the drums, eliminating all of these problems.

I have no PS, and have the 4-turn box, and for 15 years I had the Shelby quick steer kit. Parking that gave me forearms like Popeye.

Your right about the Granada stuff. Magnum 500 wheels fit the hubs. I did have to modify the steering stops. I am happy with them though.

2+2GT · Dec 30, 2009

The C4 is surprisingly strong. That can easily be a later project. You might want to install the K code servo, for stronger shifting.

FL_66 · Jan 4, 2010

We have been in and Won Shows with the 6 Cyl, but we have always wanted the V8, and now we have all the parts to do the conversion.

I figured I would keep the C-4 for now because I already have it.

as far as the V-6 it only has 40k original miles and starts right up. I'll probably sell it on Craigslist for cheap.

The V-8 is going to need to be cleaned up. I'm going to stroke it to a 347. The power for the money seems like a no brainer. don't know about cams or heads or intake or anything else right now.

palerider94 · Jan 4, 2010

If you plan on beefing up to 347 - yu'll need to upgrade your C4 - currently doing that now. C4 is a good trans. Will need to keep rear gears to 3.5 or higher. I went 3.44s with trac-loc. Revs a little high on highway 3200 at 65 but I'm fine with it. If you don't stroke out and keep hp to around 300 - current C4 will handle it.

FL_66 · Jan 5, 2010

palerider94 said:
If you plan on beefing up to 347 - yu'll need to upgrade your C4 - currently doing that now. C4 is a good trans. Will need to keep rear gears to 3.5 or higher. I went 3.44s with trac-loc. Revs a little high on highway 3200 at 65 but I'm fine with it. If you don't stroke out and keep hp to around 300 - current C4 will handle it.

what needs to be done to the C4 as far as upgrades go?

Thanks,
James

This looks like the place to be!

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