This will blow your mind

car ran, parked it for a week and now it has no spark.
new dizzy(less than 60 miles), cap, rotor, wires,(less than 700 miles) coil,(maby 20 miles) & tfi.(maby 20 miles)
w/ key on, i got power to coil, no spark coming from coil.
i put old coil on, it worked but i had spark blowout in higher rpms so i got a blaster coil, and plugged in the old coil still didnt give it any spark, plugged old tfi in, no spark still. w/ spout out it wont start. i got power to tfi on like 3 of the connectors, if i remember right, #2, #3, and #4, #4 had .88v, i think 2 and 3 had batt voltage or close to it. the + wire to coil has .6v less than batt voltage.

what do you think is going on?

i need some help with this thing, i live near Covingtion in Louisiana, let me know if you are available, thanks!
:shrug:
 
car ran, parked it for a week and now it has no spark.
new dizzy(less than 60 miles), cap, rotor, wires,(less than 700 miles) coil,(maby 20 miles) & tfi.(maby 20 miles)
w/ key on, i got power to coil, no spark coming from coil.
i put old coil on, it worked but i had spark blowout in higher rpms so i got a blaster coil, and plugged in the old coil still didnt give it any spark, plugged old tfi in, no spark still. w/ spout out it wont start. i got power to tfi on like 3 of the connectors, if i remember right, #2, #3, and #4, #4 had .88v, i think 2 and 3 had batt voltage or close to it. the + wire to coil has .6v less than batt voltage.

what do you think is going on?

i need some help with this thing, i live near Covingtion in Louisiana, let me know if you are available, thanks!
:shrug:


David, if only putting your old coil in made it run, would that not suggest the only issue was a bad coil?

In any case, I'd start over with testing. Put a test light on the VPWR wire to the coil to be sure you have constant KOEO/KOER power. If so:

Put a test light across the electrical connector to the coil. The test light should flash while you crank it.

On the TFI, #2 should not show positive voltage.
Be sure that 3 shows 12 volts while cranking. If it doesnt, the TFI won't wake up.

Check that TFI #1 shows less than 5 ohms of resistance.
 
update 1

when cranking,(used test light) coil plug does not light up, if i run to batt - and coil +, it blinks....sooo...is that a negative wire to coil (signal wire i think) wire open or a signal problem, like pip or hall in dizzy?
 
when cranking,(used test light) coil plug does not light up, if i run to batt - and coil +, it blinks....sooo...is that a negative wire to coil (signal wire i think) wire open or a signal problem, like pip or hall in dizzy?

Sounds good. FWIW, even with just the key turned on, the positive wire to the coil's electrical connector should show 12 volts. You don't even need to be cranking.

At this point, I'd go to the TFI module and check Pin 2 for intermittant ground. Connect one test-light lead to the positive battery terminal and the other end to this wire. Crank the engine; the light should flash. If it does, you have an open in the ground wire to the coil.

If it doesnt, check TFI Pin 3 for power with the key on. Check Pin 4 for 12 volts while cranking. Check Pin 1 for continuity to ground. You do this because the TFI is what sends the ground signal to the coil, so we need to try and make sure the TFI is functioning. IF you have those, we'd consider the TFI is just bad (swap it for another spare one or have yours tested) or the issue is upstream, like the PIP.

A quick test: check for injector pulsing. If you have it even when you dont have spark, the PIP should be ok. If you do not have injector pulsing or spark, wiggle the wiring connector that goes into your dizzy. This is a known problem area and sometimes just wiggling it gives you spark and injector pulsing. Then you know where the issue is.

I'd do that stuff and go from there.

Good luck.