Thought I was doing it right!

O.K. Guys. I could use some help shortly to keep me from wasting time and doing something I don't need to be doing. Here's the deal. I'll admit up front that this was my first manual transmission that I've messed with. Past experience was with automatics... I thought I had everything covered though.

I just swapped a 5.0 / t-5 out of a damaged '88 GT which only had 66k miles on it, into a '87 GT roller which was a 5.0 / t-5. While I had the engine and tranny out, I installed a brand new King Cobra Clutch, Pilot Bearing and Throwout Bearing exactly as all the manuals I could get my hands on said to do. I did this to obviously prevent any possible issues when I re-installed the engine/tranny combo!!!

I had ordered a new Clutch Cable, Adjustable Firewall Adaptor and a 3 Fork Clutch Quadrant with the King Cobra Clutch, just to make sure I had everything I needed. Upon installing the engine/tranny into the '87 GT I seen that the previous owner had already installed a large grey sheathed Clutch Cable with adjustment at the Clutch Fork only and a blue Steeda Single Fork Clutch Quadrant, so I didn't bother installing my new parts at this time.

The problem is, when I start the engine, there is a constant knock coming from the flywheel, clutch, bellhousing area. Also, the clutch pedal is so hard to push down that I don't think my wife or your average driver would be able to operate this car. The transmission will go into gear, shift and drive. I just read somewhere in one of these posts that different clutch cables may need to be used with different clutches. Could this be the problem? I hope so, seeing I don't really want to pull the transmission back out of the car at this point, but whatever I need to do needs to be done. Also, would the 3 fork Quadrant make the Clutch Pedal a little softer??

Sorry for the long story! Just wanted to try and be as clear as possible... I'd appreciate any help you guys can give!!!!!!!!!

Can I adjust without removing?

I can't say for sure right now. I thought I put it all back exactly the way it was when it came out. I had cleaned the pivot ball that the arm rides on and greased it prior to putting it all back together. It seemed to be functioning properly when I moved the arm in and out before I re-attached the transmission to the engine.

Am I stuck with pulling the tranny back out if it's the arm?

I put more pre-load on the clutch cable once I heard the noise thinking that was the problem, which did seem to reduce the noise some. But, I also kept adjusting it more to see if it would stop completely and it never did, so I backed it back off.

Is it possible it's even the cable or do you think it's the arm???

New Clutch Fork?

Well Guys, here's the latest. I've looked at the Heavy Duty Throwout Bearing that I installed thru the side of the transmission where the Clutch Fork goes thru. Obviously Right? lol

It appears that the flexible clips on the backside of the original Factory Clutch Fork are far enough apart, that depending on how the Clutch Fork is moved up or down, will allow the top or bottom clip on the backside to actually jump the backside of the Throwout Bearing.

I tried to center it just to see if this was the problem and started the car again. It still made a knocking sound when not pushing down on the clutch. When I'd push down on the clutch the sound would come close to going away but not quite.

I guess I'll be pulling the transmission and installing a new Clutch Fork huh? I'm assuming I need to be looking for any other signs of something rubbing or knocking together while I have it apart also. Should I be installing a new clutch fork pivot bolt while I'm at it, or do these actually wear out?

One more thing! Back to the Steeda Quadrant that was already installed in the car. I've read that you are supposed to use a Firewall Adaptor when using this Quadrant. There isn't one installed at this time. Should I be installing one while I have everything apart??

Thanks Again!!