Three Qs: gear oil, int. trim & clutch switch

[trinity_gt]

Might as well heave all these out there at once:

1) I'm about to schedule the install of my FRPP 3.73s. I purchased some 80W90 gear oil (along with everything else needed for the install) but read later in my Shop Manual that Ford calls for 75W140. Can the 80W90 be used or should I stick with a 75W140?

The 80W90 came from SHM. I read an article in a late 5.0 or MM&FF magazine (can't recall which) where they did some fluid changes and put what I believe was 80W90 in the axle. I'm leaning toward going with the 75W140 but I'd like to hear what others think.

2) I've ordered an MGW shifter for the car and when it arrives I hope to slap it in fairly quickly. Today, as I let the car warm a bit, I tugged and pulled on the shifter trim bezel (not too hard of course) and the thing wasn't showing much sign of popping free. Is there a specific method to pulling it free (i.e. (i) pull toward back of car 5mm (ii) lift front edge up while turning blah blah...) or does it just pull straight up? I assume it's got metal clips in plastic retainers and that'll require some force but I hate the idea of breaking stuff.

3) My GT sometimes makes a noise when starting that sounds almost like a knock or heavy rattle for a second or so after it fires that I thought was related to the death rattle piston slap issue but which I'm increasingly suspecting might be related to the loading the thrust bearing, clutch or release bearing sees because the pedal must be depressed before the starter will engage. I want to bypass the clutch switch to test my theory. Easiest way to do this?

 

[Kilgore Trout]

1) Use 75W-140, do not forget the friction modifier

2) It is held by metal clips. A trim fastener removal tool or a screwdriver wrapped in a wash cloth may help. Watch for the metal clips springing off and getting lost by use slow steady gentle force. They are hard to replace...

3) Could it be this???
TSB 15737
A Mechanical Noise (Buzz, Growl, Scraping, Zip) May be heard on drive away after initial start-up.
Some 1992-2002 vehicles equipped with anti-lock brakes may exhibit a mechanical noise (Buzz/Growl) on drive away after initial start-up. Each time the vehicle is driven. As vehicle speed reaches approximately 11-32 KM/H (7-20 MPH). The anti-lock brake control module turns on the pump motor and valves for approximately one half second. At this time a mechanical noise (Buzz, Growl, Scraping, Zip) maybe heard. This is a normal function of the self-check by the anti-lock brake control module for additional information refer to workshop manual section 206-09.

OR THIS

TSB 15738
Mustang 4.6L 2V cold start rattle
Some 2001-2002 Mustang GT equipped with a 4.6L 2V engine and a manual transmission, may exhibit a cold start piston rattle. Engineering is investigating this condition using the quicker service fix (QSF) process. Do not atttempt any service at this time. Continue to contact the national hotline to verify condition. A serice fix should become available in the second quarter sumbit EDSR's adn continue to monitor oasis for updated information.

 

[trinity_gt]

1) Use 75W-140, do not forget the friction modifier

Yep, got the little bottle of FM. I'll see if they can give me a deal on the oil...I give them my bottles of 80W90 and they use 75W140 and give me some credit. Might work.

2) It is held by metal clips. A trim fastener removal tool or a screwdriver wrapped in a wash cloth may help. Watch for the metal clips springing off and getting lost by use slow steady gentle force. They are hard to replace...

If they're the same clips as the ones holding the plastic bits on my Probe GT, yes, I'll need to be careful. I'm really worried about cracking the plastic bits they clip into.

3) Could it be this???
TSB 15737
A Mechanical Noise (Buzz, Growl, Scraping, Zip) May be heard on drive away after initial start-up.

No, this is definitely a rattle akin to the "death rattle" you mention below. When the engine is cold, as soon as it catches and revs to 1500RPM or more on "fast idle" the thing rattles hard for perhaps a second. It has the same timbre and characteristic as the death rattle. The difference is that the death rattle piston slap noise I only hear when it's cold and over 2000RPM with little load, just as the TSB describes.

This has to be one of the noisiest engines I've ever had, except perhaps the harmless but loud "friction gear" noise my Probe GT made. The death rattle, this noise and another (when I'm on the highway in 4th, between 3000 and 3500 and go into a float-mode, neither driving nor coasting, I swear I hear yet another noise from the thing that might be a piston noise...) I dunno...I don't have a lot of confidence in it. It's quite strong, doesn't smoke, is smooth and so on but I definitely don't care for the noises it makes.

The death rattle piston slap I'm not so concerned about since Ford acknowledges it and the car does it exactly as the TSB states, to the letter. These other noises, coupled with tales I hear about spun bearings in these engines makes me really wary about the longevity of the engine. I recall talking to SHM about some of the noises a good while ago and the recommendation they gave me at the time was "Don't worry about it. Just enjoy it. If it breaks, replace it."

That sums up where I am. Unless it goes into a constant, spun-bearing knock mode or otherwise dies, I'll just keep enjoying it. Meanwhile, my secret bank account will be fortified weekly to help afford the new shortblock when it needs it

Thanks.

 

[twogts4us]

a mechanical noise (Buzz, Growl, Scraping, Zip) ...This is normal.

Not taking a shot at you Kilgore (good info!), but at Ford itself - isn't this sad?

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Not taking a shot at you Kilgore (good info!), but at Ford itself - isn't this sad?

It is pretty sad when buzz, growl, scraping is a "normal" sound...

 

[trinity_gt]

On thing that did just spring to mind regarding the start-up noise is the oil filter and the potential for a drainback valve issue. I haven't used a Motorcraft FL-820S filter in some time because I have the oil changed at Quaker State now. I wonder if there's a chance that if the filter that's on there has no (or a cheesy, leaky) drainback valve in it that the oil galleries are emptying overnight such that the oil pump has to spend the first 50 rotations refilling and pressurizing the system. It's a longshot I know but worth checking out.

 

[MT1083]

I used 80w90 when I did my rear end build up because thats what Eaton and MPH recommended for me to use. That may only apply though if you are changing to a different carrier.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

 

[trinity_gt]

Great pic KT. That about seals it I guess. 75W140 it is.