Throttle Body problems
- Thread starter JTGrant
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yeah the WD-40 was a great idea. I used that and some silicon spray grease. I used some wheel bearing grease on it and it did not make it better. I also noticed that when the replacement throttle body came in from LFP it had some gease in it. Apparently they have looked at the problem, so hopefully I can go longer that 6000 miles this time before the damn thing binds up again. I should have waited and got the BBK throttle body with the plastic gears like the O.E.M throttle body has. The WD-40 and silicon spray made it much better, but it still hangs up at 2000 rpm some times. Ford should have just stuck with a traditional cable system. Other companies such as BMW have drive by wire systems and theirs' are better. My dad's 01 M Roadster has the system on his and you would think that it had a cable system on it. Yeah I now that you can't compare the two, but Ford's system sucks! Some people also claim that the aftermarket throttle bodies are not worth it and that they don't make much HP & Torq. Like I said before, I dynoed it and it made 12 HP and 10 Torq to the rear wheels at peak. Also some claim the the ECU will compensate for the change (which is true), but it is not going to lose what you gained. I installed the throttle body and then had it dynoed a week later. Yes it was on the same dyno and the wheather condtions were very similer. The reasoning behind disconnecting the neg. batt cable is to clear long term fuel trim and adaptive strategy so that the ECU can learn them again with the new parts. It is just now some mods require a tune because emission has gotten so strick that the ECU and software are very sensitive to the changes you make.Midrange is also a nice gain. From the dyno sheets I have, the instructor at school had the graph all screwed up so I can not compare the midrange. But I can definitly feel it with the butt dyno.
i am done with the lfp one. i noticed if it is humid, like its going to rain or is raining, it starts binding. i am getting the bbk and selling this one. i suggest everyone else do the same, otherwise you gotta keep messing with it and opening it and putting wd40 in it. btw if u start the car and the revs are hanging high, turn the car off, turn key to on but dont start, pump the pedal a couple times, turn it off and on. this fixes the binding for some reason. yes u can hear it move when u do this. when you start the car, the TB does a full open close cycle, so if its binding then this is why it doesnt idle right.
got the replacement, and its EVEN WORSE!!!!! this one, the rod that holds the throttle plates was not made correctly, so air is leaking in. the car gets stuck at 3000 rpms and will not come down for 10 seconds. even if you remove the blade stop screw it still happens! these LFP granatelli etc twin 62MM throttle bodies are junk. DO NOT BUY ONE. buy the bbk one. i had to stop on the side of the damn highway and put my stock one back in, because this replacement one kept making the car failsafe. stock one in it runs perfectly. BBK for me!
celticstanger
Member
Update on mine - the TB was 100% ok, turns out my battery WAS almost dead. Charged it right up and the car's running great.
I wonder of if these TB's had a design change and vX.1 works fine, but vX.2 has issue? The only other thing I can think of as to why I've had no issues, but a number of others have (even with replacements) is that I've put very fewe miles on mine (car was bought 11/04, but still only has 8K miles on it - the benefit/curse of working out of town).
I wonder of if these TB's had a design change and vX.1 works fine, but vX.2 has issue? The only other thing I can think of as to why I've had no issues, but a number of others have (even with replacements) is that I've put very fewe miles on mine (car was bought 11/04, but still only has 8K miles on it - the benefit/curse of working out of town).
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