Throttle Body problems

JTGrant

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Aug 2, 2005

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Apr 20, 2006

#21

• Apr 20, 2006

• #21

What is the deal official_style should I grease mine? Have you called LFP yet? Mine has not screwed up yet,but I've got my fingers crossed.

 

JTGrant

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Aug 2, 2005

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Apr 20, 2006

#22

• Apr 20, 2006

• #22

JTGrant said:

so don't use the grease. if the car is off, and the ignition is on and you pump the pedal. Can you hear the gears moving?

Click to expand...

 

JTGrant

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Aug 2, 2005

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Apr 25, 2006

#23

• Apr 25, 2006

• #23

yeah the WD-40 was a great idea. I used that and some silicon spray grease. I used some wheel bearing grease on it and it did not make it better. I also noticed that when the replacement throttle body came in from LFP it had some gease in it. Apparently they have looked at the problem, so hopefully I can go longer that 6000 miles this time before the damn thing binds up again. I should have waited and got the BBK throttle body with the plastic gears like the O.E.M throttle body has. The WD-40 and silicon spray made it much better, but it still hangs up at 2000 rpm some times. Ford should have just stuck with a traditional cable system. Other companies such as BMW have drive by wire systems and theirs' are better. My dad's 01 M Roadster has the system on his and you would think that it had a cable system on it. Yeah I now that you can't compare the two, but Ford's system sucks! Some people also claim that the aftermarket throttle bodies are not worth it and that they don't make much HP & Torq. Like I said before, I dynoed it and it made 12 HP and 10 Torq to the rear wheels at peak. Also some claim the the ECU will compensate for the change (which is true), but it is not going to lose what you gained. I installed the throttle body and then had it dynoed a week later. Yes it was on the same dyno and the wheather condtions were very similer. The reasoning behind disconnecting the neg. batt cable is to clear long term fuel trim and adaptive strategy so that the ECU can learn them again with the new parts. It is just now some mods require a tune because emission has gotten so strick that the ECU and software are very sensitive to the changes you make.Midrange is also a nice gain. From the dyno sheets I have, the instructor at school had the graph all screwed up so I can not compare the midrange. But I can definitly feel it with the butt dyno.

 

O

official_style

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Apr 18, 2005

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Apr 25, 2006

#24

• Apr 25, 2006

• #24

i am done with the lfp one. i noticed if it is humid, like its going to rain or is raining, it starts binding. i am getting the bbk and selling this one. i suggest everyone else do the same, otherwise you gotta keep messing with it and opening it and putting wd40 in it. btw if u start the car and the revs are hanging high, turn the car off, turn key to on but dont start, pump the pedal a couple times, turn it off and on. this fixes the binding for some reason. yes u can hear it move when u do this. when you start the car, the TB does a full open close cycle, so if its binding then this is why it doesnt idle right.

 

O

official_style

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Apr 18, 2005

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Apr 26, 2006

#25

• Apr 26, 2006

• #25

just pulled the trigger on the bbk TB. $304 shipped. ill let yall know how it works out

 

JTGrant

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Aug 2, 2005

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Apr 26, 2006

#26

• Apr 26, 2006

• #26

where did you get it?

 

O

official_style

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Apr 18, 2005

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Apr 28, 2006

#27

• Apr 28, 2006

• #27

ok i cancelled the order. i took the LFP TB apart again, and this time i used lithuim spray grease. so far so good, lets keep our fingers crossed. i called LPF and they told me that they will ship me another and i can send mine back if i keep having the problem. ill keep ya'll updated.

 

O

official_style

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Apr 18, 2005

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May 6, 2006

#28

• May 6, 2006

• #28

got the replacement, and its EVEN WORSE!!!!! this one, the rod that holds the throttle plates was not made correctly, so air is leaking in. the car gets stuck at 3000 rpms and will not come down for 10 seconds. even if you remove the blade stop screw it still happens! these LFP granatelli etc twin 62MM throttle bodies are junk. DO NOT BUY ONE. buy the bbk one. i had to stop on the side of the damn highway and put my stock one back in, because this replacement one kept making the car failsafe. stock one in it runs perfectly. BBK for me!

 

2

2k05gt

Member

Nov 30, 2005

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Northern Virginia

May 7, 2006

#29

• May 7, 2006

• #29

the same thing happend to me, I stopped on the highway and replaced it with the stock TB and threw the piece of $&!# into the woods, NEVER will I get a aftermarket TB, not even BBK. Not worth the time or money,

 

JTGrant

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Aug 2, 2005

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May 9, 2006

#30

• May 9, 2006

• #30

i guess it is only a matter of time until the replacement of mine takes a dump. and it took a week for them to send another one after about 5000000000000 calls. Awesome!!!

 

celticstanger

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Dec 21, 2004

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"Glen Ivy", CA

May 24, 2006

#31

• May 24, 2006

• #31

Update on mine - the TB was 100% ok, turns out my battery WAS almost dead. Charged it right up and the car's running great.

I wonder of if these TB's had a design change and vX.1 works fine, but vX.2 has issue? The only other thing I can think of as to why I've had no issues, but a number of others have (even with replacements) is that I've put very fewe miles on mine (car was bought 11/04, but still only has 8K miles on it - the benefit/curse of working out of town).