So I recently had to replace the computer in my 94GT, I also replace the coil, IAC, TPS, igniton module. I know the car will take some time to learn the new computer but I feel like my throttle response should be better. Is there anything I can do to improve throttle response
The car does not have to learn the new ECU because the ECU is what controls the engine and everything else. So there is nothing for the car to learn, the engine will do what the ECU commands. Do a voltage check/adjustment on the TPS and check your timing. And flash the ECU for codes while you're at it. If the ECU is the same (strategy, BIN, etc...) as the original, then the car should be running better (if anything) provided the original was faulty and the new one is clean, operating properly, and connected properly...
As for the OP, you're right, a new PCM does have to calibrate/learn. That's the most basic thing there is about how EFI works. Fuel Trim values are set for multiple rpm/load values.
As for adjusting the TPS - that is a RICER MYTH from way back. From a Controls point of view, doing a self-calibrate on the TPS on startup is super super basic. Even Kids in grade school that do Controls know that. Sigh!
If you don't get a "TPS out of range error", then the TPS is fine, do not f**** with it it or even touch it! Don't even look at it. Don't dream about it at night. Forget that it even exists.
There are many things to do to improve throttle response. But, in real life, they all effect HP. Sorry, I don't give ricer info - do "xyz" and get 3,000MPG, a zillion HP, and handle pulling 30Gs!
The 100% stock air intake, MAF, and TB are all fine for up to ~300HP. They also have very good throttle response.
Heads and intake also effect throttle response.
The car does not have to learn the new ECU because the ECU is what controls the engine and everything else. So there is nothing for the car to learn, the engine will do what the ECU commands. Do a voltage check/adjustment on the TPS and check your timing. And flash the ECU for codes while you're at it. If the ECU is the same (strategy, BIN, etc...) as the original, then the car should be running better (if anything) provided the original was faulty and the new one is clean, operating properly, and connected properly...
Hmm, how to be nice about this? You really need to learn about EFI.
As for adjusting the TPS - WTF?? The Ford manual clear states that it's a NON-adjustable part. So, how the **** do you "adjust a non-adjustable part"? Since the MID-90's the code has been available on the net, and anyone can buy/build the cheap hardware that allows them to read the EEC code. Sorry, there are no hidden secrets at all in the Fox/sn95 5.0 code. Also, "Ford" has been amazing in "allowing release" of how their PCM strategies work. It's super mega trivial for Ford to find out, and to sue and shut down sites that have the document, or even a link to it.
Please, whoever told you that, tell them to take a intake and shove it far up their *ss.
Hey, how the ***** would YOU like it of people went around spreading massive foolish BS about what YOU did/learned/taught!
stang&2birds, I understand what you're saying. However I don't go spreading information based on what other people have told me. I read what other members write when explaining their symptoms. I think back to when I've had the same symptoms or similar ones...and then I think to what I did that corrected the problem. In the OP's case, I've had similar problems with my 95 GT back in October. And I had similar problems with a 91 GT that I owned a few years ago. The advice I gave were all based on my experiences.
As far as "adjusting the TPS" I clearly wrote the wrong thing so I apologize for that. I meant to say to check/adjust the voltage of the TPS. This I have done and will be doing again later this week as I will be further modding and tuning my 95. I have had problems with idle and throttle response that were directly related to my TPS. And I have found that when replacing a TPS it is often necessary to adjust the position of it (along with the throttle stop screw) to gain the proper voltage in order for the engine to idle properly and at the set RPMs.
I don't claim to know everything or even a lot, far from it. I learn new things all the time. I just learned a few things from what you posted just now. But I do try to help out others as much as I can. I see from you words that perhaps I incited some anger and that was not intentional. Maybe my advice was a little off...or maybe you have more extensive knowledge than I do. Whatever the case my response to the OP was out of a sincere desire to help with the stated problem. Again I apologize if I was off or just plain wrong in my advice. Hey, I'm 34 and I'm just now finding out that I'm not always right...women are, haha!!
And I don't offer (and wasn't offering) "ricer info". If it seemed like I was then I apologize for that also. I took it that the OP was having a problem with throttle response and was trying to get it back to normal. That was what my statement was geared towards. There are modifications out there that can improve performance however there are no secrets that will unleash incredible performance. At least not to my knowledge. True performance comes from a combination of spending the right amount of money, proper tuning, basic maintenance, appropriately matched parts, knowledge, and skill...that will never change. However, sometimes a faulty sensor or improper adjustment can cause a loss of performance. The problem is that people often get mistaken when the part is replaced (or adjusted) and performance returns. People go off on wild fantasies and spread rumors (or outright lies) that if you replace x sensor or do this or do that, then you'll gain x hp. I understand that this happens more often than not. However I have never been one to spread such misconceptions or even consider buying into it.
Let your car sit for like 2-3 weeks, then drive it again! lol Everytime i don't drive my car for a while and i get back in, It's like HOLY S*IT THIS THINGS FAST! LMAO
but seriously i also had the same issue and i adjusted my voltage on my TPS and cleaned my MAF sensor and it worked for me. Make sure to get MAF cleaner or non chlorinated brake parts cleaner as they are the only thing that wont leave a residue. This is especially important if you have a fender well mount CAI.
okay so i checked my timing which was somehow way off, throttle response is a lot better but it stillndoesnt like to idle down. im going to try cleaning the MAF and see where that gets me