Drivetrain Throwout bearing air gap

JungleJoe

I was like well chit..Im missing something
Jul 25, 2011
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Ok guys.. 302 zspec t5 in a 2000 ranger swap.
I've converted it to a hydraulic external slave setup. I have an adjustable pivot ball on the bellhousing. With everything mounted up.and working, the clutch engagement is right off the floor. Thats not going to work for me.

I took the slave off so that the fork is just resting. If I pull the fork back towards the transmission(tob away from the pressure plate springs) ive got about 1/4--3/8 gap. If I adjust the pivot ball out, which will push the fork back towards the transmission.. which I'm "hoping" will give me closer to the middle or so off the floor when releasing the clutch peddle.
What is the normal air gap on the throwout bearing suppose to be at its resting spot? Should I adjust it so that the throwout bearing is barely away from the springs?
 

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JungleJoe

I was like well chit..Im missing something
Jul 25, 2011
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Ok got the transmission out... I can drop it in 30 minutes or so.. not so sure if thats good or bad..lmao
But anyhow.. here is the adjustable pivot ball... im thinking screw it out about. 1/4 inch. That will in theory push the end of clutch fork towards the transmission side. Give me a little less "air gap" on the tob and give me more clutch peddle action. At least thats my thinking...
Trying to get the clutch to engage about middle of travle or so. Not 1/2 off the floor
 

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JungleJoe

I was like well chit..Im missing something
Jul 25, 2011
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Well I was able to move it another 1/8 -3/16 of an inch.. doesn't seem like much..bit it sure moved the end of the clutch fork back towards the the transmission..
There is about an 1/8 inch gap between the clutch fork on the pivot ball.and the pressure plate. Should be enough

I'll put it back together and see it it helps any..
 

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nickyb

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I always thought moving the pivot in put the bearing away,and moving it out put it closer.Also is there any adjustment on the setup you have?like to adjust clutch engagement? Post some pics of your setup.
 

JungleJoe

I was like well chit..Im missing something
Jul 25, 2011
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My truck is a 2000 ranger 2wd, stock bottom end 302 ported twisted wedge heads, milled to 58cc, .039 headgaskets, ported upper and lower explorer intake, ported throttle body, Anderson cam, 24 lb injectors, (may have to go to 30's, zspec t5 373 gears

So basically this is the setup.. 6 inch threaded 3/8 rod.. capped 3/8 nut, then a 1/2 carriage bolt( you just need the head, so cut that off) couple 3/8 nuts and a lock washers
Cut the head off the 1/2 carriage bolt and drill a hole through the center of it. Thats what sits in the clutch fork.
Take the capped 3/8 nut and round the edges off.. that sits inside of the slave. Im using a f550 clutch master and a 280z slave, 24 inch long Kevlar hydraulic line and couple fittings
 

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jrichker

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With a stock cable there is no air gap; the throwout bearing is designed to be in constant contact with the clutch fingers..
There shouldn't be any difference with a hydraulic actuated clutch. You didn't change the clutch type, just the means to actuate it.

If there is an air gap, the throwout bearing tends to rattle and the clutch does not disengage completely.
 
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JungleJoe

I was like well chit..Im missing something
Jul 25, 2011
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With a stock cable there is no air gap; the throwout bearing is designed to be in constant contact with the clutch fingers..
There shouldn't be any difference with a hydraulic actuated clutch. You didn't change the clutch type, just the means to actuate it.

If there is an air gap, the throwout bearing tends to rattle and the clutch does not disengage completely.
Thanks. Thats what I needed to know
 

JungleJoe

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Jul 25, 2011
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Can anyone post a picture by chance of their stock cable system with the clutch fully pressed? I need to see how far the fork is away from the bell housing. Mine just seems it need a longer throw slave cyl. Its working, no grinding.. but coming off the floor 1/2 inch its engaged. I need more room than that for wot powershifting
 

Noobz347

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This is irrelevant to your current project but for your next clutch, look at a Dual Friction Centerforce. It has a light pressure plate and counter-weights that press down on the fingers as it spins up.

In my head, it seems like a match made in heaven. What's the final drive ratio in the truck?
 
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Noobz347

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longer throw slave cyl.

Nail on the head. It's a big reason why we don't see a ton of these swaps. There's a pretty large range of motion at the fork.

A longer slave or some sort of nautilus shaped lever setup (like the bell shape on cable quadrants).
 
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JungleJoe

I was like well chit..Im missing something
Jul 25, 2011
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This is irrelevant to your current project but for your next clutch, look at a Dual Friction Centerforce. It has a light pressure plate and counter-weights that press down on the fingers as it spins up.

In my head, it seems like a match made in heaven. What's the final drive ratio in the truck?
Right now.. I have 373's in the rear.. zspec t5 in it. I'm not sure what rear gears ill end up with.. I didn't build it to be a race truck.. highway cruiser mainly. May switch to 355's in the end
 

Noobz347

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Right now.. I have 373's in the rear.. zspec t5 in it. I'm not sure what rear gears ill end up with.. I didn't build it to be a race truck.. highway cruiser mainly. May switch to 355's in the end

A big portion of the 'rock crawler' trucks use the Centerforce too. It's not just speed junkies. :)
 
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JungleJoe

I was like well chit..Im missing something
Jul 25, 2011
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Yeah... 2 1/2 mid pipe from the headers, 3 inch X pipe and 3 inch SLP1'S..
EQUALS: Way to much noise!! I put these on for a temporary thing. Its getting black widow venum.250s