Drivetrain Throwout bearing air gap

JungleJoe · Dec 16, 2020

Ok guys.. 302 zspec t5 in a 2000 ranger swap.
I've converted it to a hydraulic external slave setup. I have an adjustable pivot ball on the bellhousing. With everything mounted up.and working, the clutch engagement is right off the floor. Thats not going to work for me.

I took the slave off so that the fork is just resting. If I pull the fork back towards the transmission(tob away from the pressure plate springs) ive got about 1/4--3/8 gap. If I adjust the pivot ball out, which will push the fork back towards the transmission.. which I'm "hoping" will give me closer to the middle or so off the floor when releasing the clutch peddle.
What is the normal air gap on the throwout bearing suppose to be at its resting spot? Should I adjust it so that the throwout bearing is barely away from the springs?

JungleJoe · Dec 16, 2020

Ok got the transmission out... I can drop it in 30 minutes or so.. not so sure if thats good or bad..lmao
But anyhow.. here is the adjustable pivot ball... im thinking screw it out about. 1/4 inch. That will in theory push the end of clutch fork towards the transmission side. Give me a little less "air gap" on the tob and give me more clutch peddle action. At least thats my thinking...
Trying to get the clutch to engage about middle of travle or so. Not 1/2 off the floor

JungleJoe · Dec 16, 2020

Well I was able to move it another 1/8 -3/16 of an inch.. doesn't seem like much..bit it sure moved the end of the clutch fork back towards the the transmission..
There is about an 1/8 inch gap between the clutch fork on the pivot ball.and the pressure plate. Should be enough

I'll put it back together and see it it helps any..

nickyb · Dec 16, 2020

I always thought moving the pivot in put the bearing away,and moving it out put it closer.Also is there any adjustment on the setup you have?like to adjust clutch engagement? Post some pics of your setup.

JungleJoe · Dec 16, 2020

My truck is a 2000 ranger 2wd, stock bottom end 302 ported twisted wedge heads, milled to 58cc, .039 headgaskets, ported upper and lower explorer intake, ported throttle body, Anderson cam, 24 lb injectors, (may have to go to 30's, zspec t5 373 gears

So basically this is the setup.. 6 inch threaded 3/8 rod.. capped 3/8 nut, then a 1/2 carriage bolt( you just need the head, so cut that off) couple 3/8 nuts and a lock washers
Cut the head off the 1/2 carriage bolt and drill a hole through the center of it. Thats what sits in the clutch fork.
Take the capped 3/8 nut and round the edges off.. that sits inside of the slave. Im using a f550 clutch master and a 280z slave, 24 inch long Kevlar hydraulic line and couple fittings

jrichker · Dec 19, 2020

With a stock cable there is no air gap; the throwout bearing is designed to be in constant contact with the clutch fingers..
There shouldn't be any difference with a hydraulic actuated clutch. You didn't change the clutch type, just the means to actuate it.

If there is an air gap, the throwout bearing tends to rattle and the clutch does not disengage completely.

JungleJoe · Dec 23, 2020

jrichker said:
With a stock cable there is no air gap; the throwout bearing is designed to be in constant contact with the clutch fingers..
There shouldn't be any difference with a hydraulic actuated clutch. You didn't change the clutch type, just the means to actuate it.

If there is an air gap, the throwout bearing tends to rattle and the clutch does not disengage completely.

Thanks. Thats what I needed to know

General karthief · Dec 23, 2020

What manufacturer is the hydraulic clutch?

JungleJoe · Jan 7, 2021

General karthief said:
What manufacturer is the hydraulic clutch?

Didn't even know you had replied...
Hydraulic clutch? Or the Hydraulic parts?
I have no idea.. stock clutch from the parts store. Its not enough clutch for my engine..but it will work with no slicks

JungleJoe · Jan 7, 2021

Can anyone post a picture by chance of their stock cable system with the clutch fully pressed? I need to see how far the fork is away from the bell housing. Mine just seems it need a longer throw slave cyl. Its working, no grinding.. but coming off the floor 1/2 inch its engaged. I need more room than that for wot powershifting

Noobz347 · Jan 7, 2021

This is irrelevant to your current project but for your next clutch, look at a Dual Friction Centerforce. It has a light pressure plate and counter-weights that press down on the fingers as it spins up.

In my head, it seems like a match made in heaven. What's the final drive ratio in the truck?

Noobz347 · Jan 7, 2021

JungleJoe said:
longer throw slave cyl.

Nail on the head. It's a big reason why we don't see a ton of these swaps. There's a pretty large range of motion at the fork.

A longer slave or some sort of nautilus shaped lever setup (like the bell shape on cable quadrants).

JungleJoe · Jan 7, 2021

So I just got from under the truck.. I'm getting exactly 1 inch of throw.. I'm thinking 1 1/2 or maybe 1 1/4 would get me where I'd like to be

JungleJoe · Jan 7, 2021

Noobz347 said:
This is irrelevant to your current project but for your next clutch, look at a Dual Friction Centerforce. It has a light pressure plate and counter-weights that press down on the fingers as it spins up.

In my head, it seems like a match made in heaven. What's the final drive ratio in the truck?

Right now.. I have 373's in the rear.. zspec t5 in it. I'm not sure what rear gears ill end up with.. I didn't build it to be a race truck.. highway cruiser mainly. May switch to 355's in the end

JungleJoe · Jan 7, 2021

Its driving under its own power at the very least. I'm getting the small things worked out before it hits the dyno

Noobz347 · Jan 7, 2021

JungleJoe said:
Right now.. I have 373's in the rear.. zspec t5 in it. I'm not sure what rear gears ill end up with.. I didn't build it to be a race truck.. highway cruiser mainly. May switch to 355's in the end

A big portion of the 'rock crawler' trucks use the Centerforce too. It's not just speed junkies.

Noobz347 · Jan 7, 2021

JungleJoe said:
View: https://youtu.be/QpSB7YccRac

Its driving under its own power at the very least. I'm getting the small things worked out before it hits the dyno

Oh yeah... Your neighbors are loving it already.

Noobz347 · Jan 7, 2021

Hey so, if you swap your slave, won't you also need a larger master? How much pedal travel do you have left?

JungleJoe · Jan 7, 2021

Yeah... 2 1/2 mid pipe from the headers, 3 inch X pipe and 3 inch SLP1'S..
EQUALS: Way to much noise!! I put these on for a temporary thing. Its getting black widow venum.250s

JungleJoe · Jan 7, 2021

Noobz347 said:
Hey so, if you swap your slave, won't you also need a larger master? How much pedal travel do you have left?

I'm running a f550 master.. I'm pretty sure its 7/8 bore. As the truck sits now.. clutch on the floor.. the slave piston is still in the body about 1/2 inch.. or about 9/16

Drivetrain Throwout bearing air gap

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