Time To Lower The Car

madmatt

Ellis Juan sympathizer
Founding Member
Dec 28, 2002
465
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16
Lexington, SC
Well I think in the near future, id like to upgrade my springs and shocks. My car is a 99 GT and the suspension is getting pretty old and im pretty sure my rear shocks are blown. I am looking at the Steeda Sport Springs but I am also up for suggestions. Pictures would be great, I believe there is a red mustang on her that has the steeda sports that I saw before. My question is, did you with the steeda sports have to have the C/C plates to get the alignment correct. Also what shocks would you recommend. I was thinking about maybe the cobra bilsteins or the Mach 1 Tocikos. This car wont see any track time so Im pretty much concerned with drivablility and stance over performance. Thanks.
 
95CobraStang said:
My Ford Racing C-Springs will be here tomorrow, and will be installed on the weekend. I'll let you know then. But you can't beat $139.99 from mustangtuning.com, shipped to your door!!


Ford Racing has the M-5400-A kit for $495.00 which includes: Improved front and rear springs, front struts and rear shocks, front and rear sway bars.

And it can probably be bought for about $450.00 at a discount Ford Racing supplier. Seems like great (probably a middle-of-the-road kit) deal to me.
 
I installed the eibach pro kit on my sons 1998 gt (from tire rack). this includes 2 struts. 2 shocks and 4 springs. I used the stock tower plates and a special cam bolt for alignment. this is a good STREET setup. good ride, approx. 1.5 drop and matched parts. I also installed poly bushings on the a-frame, offset rack bushings & new ball joints. In the rear I installed poly bush on upper diff. and adjustable upper control arm with hemispherical joints. this provides the ability to correct the pinion angle after lowering the car. The hem. joint prevents any binding with poly bushings.
handles very good, rides good, this got rid of the rear end thump (pinion bushing hitting the floor) and saggy butt.
 
i was also in the market for buying springs to lower my car. i was told eibach is the best, but the reviews i've read weren't the greatest. i was looking at the bbk and steeda springs also, but i can't really decide. this is an everyday driver but im very interested in high performance, so any opinions on what would be the best?
 
madmatt said:
I was thinking about maybe the cobra bilsteins or the Mach 1 Tocikos. This car wont see any track time so Im pretty much concerned with drivablility and stance over performance. Thanks.

Here's a couple pics of my GT with the Mach 1 Tokico struts/shocks and MRT springs. It's a big improvement over stock and I don't have any problems with every day driving where I live. When I visit TN and AL though, I have a lot more issues with scraping. :(

stacys_gt.jpg


spoilerless.jpg
 
christiesledd
i am interested in what was in the bad reviews of eibach.
these are not track springs. they are "progessive spring rates" this is what you want for the street not "very high fixed rates" (just my opinion) track springs will rattle your fillings. they are rough on a flimsy uni-body. right now the tires (245-17") are the cars limit in the turns not the suspen.
 
I had Eibach Sportlines on my 2000 GT and the stance was great. Originally had the Pro-Kit but the drop was not enough. Be ready to lose some in the ride quality department, but the car will handle better and the look of the car
is worth it in my opinion. :nice:
 
I have Eibach pro-kit springe, Steeda X2 balljoints, Bumpsteer kit, and Pro 3i C/C plates(4-bolt). The C/C plates are not needed for the drop that I acheived (1.25" in front and .75 in rear). But with the C/C plates you are able to adjust you caster much more positive (I have mine at 4.75 deg.) this coupled with the springs, makes the car handle awsome at high speed and cornering. I have the stock struts/shock, I am waiting till they blow to buy new ones. I am very pleased with mine, the car rode like crap before, it rides like crap now. The only complaint that I have is the C/C plates make a lot more noise up front (sounds like a bad wheel bearing) because the rubber isolators are removed.