Timing chain replacement

Robs96 · Oct 24, 2006

I'm getting ready to replace the timing chain after 150k on my 1996 GT 2v and I've replaced many timing chains in cars throughout my life but while glancing through the procedure in the Haynes manual it says that you have to remove the oil pan, which requires removing the tranny. I've never had to remove an oil pan on anything I've ever worked on before including 5.0's. So, has anyone replaced themselves, not the auto shop, the timing chain on their 4.6 2v and did you really have to remove the oil pan?

MBDiagMan · Oct 24, 2006

Why are you replacing the chain?

BurningRubber · Oct 24, 2006

For a detailed cam swap people remove the timing chains, I dont recall any need to drop the oil pan for that.

But, theres no schedual to replace the timing chains as far as I know. Timing belts yes, but timing chains are supposed to be good for the life of the motor unless the tensioners crap out. Someone please correct me if im wrong, but thats how I know it to be.

CobraRed_96_GT · Oct 24, 2006

BurningRubber said:
For a detailed cam swap people remove the timing chains, I dont recall any need to drop the oil pan for that.

But, theres no schedual to replace the timing chains as far as I know. Timing belts yes, but timing chains are supposed to be good for the life of the motor unless the tensioners crap out. Someone please correct me if im wrong, but thats how I know it to be.

you are correct sir Chains FTW

Robs96 · Oct 24, 2006

Yeah thats exactly what it is,the tensioners are gone. Used a stethoscope and 'walla'. I just thought it odd to have to drop the oil pan, as Haynes calls for, but then again, it's not the first time a Haynes manual has gotten stupid on a repair. At 150k on the motor, just makes sense to replace the chain while i'm at it. Besides, the timing chain is cheap, but the tensioners, wow!

phalcrow · Oct 24, 2006

To remove the timing cover you will need to remove the front four oil pan bolts, not the entire oil pan. These connect the timing cover to the oil pan. I did this two days ago on my 96 GT.

Mike97gt · Oct 24, 2006

you don't have to remove the oil pan... This is why you should try to get real Ford service manulas.

FORD said:
Section 03-01B: Engine, 4.6L (2V) 1996 Mustang Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE SERVICE Procedure revision date: 05/18/2000

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Engine Front Cover
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
Crankshaft Damper Remover T58P-6316-D
Crankshaft Damper Replacer T74P-6316-B
Seal Replacer/Cover Aligner T88T-6701-A1
Plate (Centering Adapter) T88T-6701-A2
Front Cover Seal Remover T74P-6700-A
Fuel Pressure Gauge T80L-9974-B
Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool (3/8") D87L-9280-A
Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool (1/2") D87L-9280-B
Teflon Seal Replacer Set D90P-3517-A

Removal

Disconnect the battery ground cable. Refer to Section 14-01.

Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03.

Remove the upper radiator hose.

Remove hoses and sensor connector from the coolant expansion tank. Remove expansion tank.

Disconnect the connector and locator. Remove cooling fan assembly.

Remove the front fender to bulkhead brace.

Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) tube from the throttle body induction tube and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) vent tube from left valve cover. Disconnect connector for mass air flow (MAF) and IAC. Loosen the induction tube clamp at the throttle body and remove the air cleaner and induction tube assembly.

Loosen water pump pulley bolts. Remove the serpentine belt. Remove the water pump pulley.

Remove the serpentine belt idler pulley from the front engine cover.

Remove left coil retainers and position coil aside.

Drain power steering fluid.

Remove the hoses from the reservoir and remove the power steering pump reservoir.

Remove battery cable support bracket from power steering reservoir bracket and position aside. Disconnect camshaft position sensor from front of cylinder head.

Remove power steering reservoir bracket from front of cylinder head.

Remove the right side coil bracket retainers and locator. Position the coil assembly out of the way.

Remove crankshaft damper retaining bolt.

Remove the crankshaft damper using Crankshaft Damper Remover T58P-6316-D.

Install Front Cover Seal Remover T74P-6700-A to the front engine seal and remove the seal from the engine cover.

Raise the vehicle. Refer to Section 00-02.

Disconnect the pressure line and bracket and the electrical connector at the oil pressure-sending unit. Remove the power steering pump retainers and position pump aside. Cap the line and the pump.

Remove the battery cable support brackets from front of engine and position aside.

Remove the four front oil pan retaining bolts.

Disconnect the crank position sensor (CPS) connector.

Lower the vehicle.

Remove oil level indicator tube bracket from valve cover stud and position aside.

Disconnect the engine harness and spark plug wire holders from the left valve cover and position away from the valve cover. Disconnect spark plug boots from spark plugs and position aside.

Remove the left valve cover.

Disconnect the PCV valve assembly from the right valve cover and position it away from the valve cover.

Disconnect the engine harness and spark plug wire holders from the right valve cover and position away from the valve cover. Disconnect spark plug boots from spark plugs and position aside. Disconnect vacuum line from engine harness.

WARNING: FUEL SUPPLY TUBES WILL REMAIN PRESSURIZED FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME AFTER ENGINE SHUTDOWN. THIS PRESSURE MUST BE RELIEVED BEFORE SERVICING OF THE FUEL SYSTEM BEGINS OR PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO VEHICLE MAY OCCUR. A VALVE IS PROVIDED ON THE FUEL INJECTION SUPPLY MANIFOLD FOR THIS PURPOSE.

Connect Fuel Pressure Gauge T80L-9974-B to fuel pressure relief valve on fuel injection supply manifold. Open manual valve on Fuel Pressure Gauge T80L-9974-B to relieve fuel system pressure. Remove safety clips and disconnect fuel ines using tools Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool D87L-9280-A for 3/8-inch tube or D87L-9280-B for 1/2-inch tube. Remove fuel pressure gauge.

Remove A/C muffler bracket and position aside.

Remove the right valve cover.

Remove the remaining front engine cover retaining bolts and remove the cover.

CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs, or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. Remove and discard all gaskets and clean the gasket surfaces. Clean the gasket sealing surfaces with Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A.

Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness.

Clean valve covers.

Clean front engine cover.

BurningRubber · Oct 24, 2006

Wow, what a pain in the ass. But reguardless, that is good and detailed info.

Robs96 · Oct 24, 2006

Yeah a real Ford manual would be good but I have been doing this for along time, and usually just use manuals for torque values and other specs. I do however, always read the procedure if I have the manual just in case some wacky step like this gets mentioned, or a special tool is needed. I've found with Haynes manuals that you can usually skip about half the steps they list in a procedure, but I just wanted to be sure, since I've never cracked a 4.6 open yet. Thanks for all the great input.

sgarlic · Oct 24, 2006

The factory service manual can't even be compared to a Haynes or Chilton. I agree, I only usually read my Chilton to get a spec or something, but the FSM's actually tell you step by step how to do everything.. not in a vague generalized way like the other ones do.

whty98 · Oct 24, 2006

Where do you get a Ford Service manual, specifically for a 98 GT?? I have a Haynes and it was **** when I referenced it for changing my clutch.

the98stang · Oct 25, 2006

wouldn't it be a lot easier to pull the engine with a cherry picker and replace the chain that way?

Just a thought...

phalcrow · Oct 25, 2006

I've done it both ways. I have found that it is easier to leave the motor in the car. It saves a lot of time on your back.

the98stang · Oct 25, 2006

phalcrow said:
I've done it both ways. I have found that it is easier to leave the motor in the car. It saves a lot of time on your back.

ah..thanks for the heads up

Bolt on 5.0 · Oct 25, 2006

you can do the chain guids from the top of the motor, maybe some work from the bottom. Also like stated above you do not have to frop down the whole pan. Make sure you mark the cams or use the manual or you will have valve to piston issues.

Timing chain replacement

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