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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Fox Timing Chains, Valve Springs & Cam Material

  • Thread starter Thread starter RangerJoe
  • Start date Start date Oct 19, 2013

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
15 Year Member
Apr 26, 2010
2,560
1,146
184
Georgia
Oct 19, 2013
#1
  • Oct 19, 2013
  • #1
Title says it: Three areas I need some advice/opinions on.

1) Currently run a Melling chain, nothing wrong with it, but its been through 3 cams and I want to replace it this go around when I do my new HCI. Melling recommends not exceeding 6500rpms, which is the max I want to spin my stock block to anyways. I also read good things about the Cloyes timing chain.

-Question: Are the basic $35 timing chains from these companies reliable enough to take the abuse of a street/strip stroker that sees 6500 rpms, or do I need to spring for one of the more expensive $100+ sets?

2) Current springs:
Dual Springs
1.86 Install Height
145lbs on seat, around 350-360lbs at .600
Coil Bind at 1.09

-Concern/question: Pressures are good. Even if I run a .600 lift cam, I get .170 coil bind clearance (if my math is correct, and I understand the valve spring concepts correctly). I am reading that this is way too much and can cause "spring surge". Thoughts, opinions? Is this too much?

3) Cam material, billet versus sadi core. I currently run HV oil pump, arp shaft and stock distributor and stock distributor gear. No cam picked out yet. I have run both cam materials with no problems, currently run a billet piece. Is there any truth to sadi core cam gears being eaten when running HV oil pumps? Do I need to ensure I get a billet, or drop down to a standard pump?

Thanks in advance with the help guys!

Joe
 

flstang65

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2007
1,484
135
94
SE Georgia
Oct 19, 2013
#2
  • Oct 19, 2013
  • #2
What about a good gear drive or belt drive set up?
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
15 Year Member
Apr 26, 2010
2,560
1,146
184
Georgia
Oct 19, 2013
#3
  • Oct 19, 2013
  • #3
Gear drives are noisy, and from what I've read, transfer more harmonics into an already weak block. Secondly, both are more costly than the aforementioned $35 pieces. If I was going to spend that much, it would be just as reasonable to purchase a very high quality traditional style timing chain.

Joe
 
Reactions: MikeH686

liljoe07

5 Year Member
Feb 18, 2009
1,622
363
124
Cartersville,Ga
Oct 19, 2013
#4
  • Oct 19, 2013
  • #4
For what its worth, the Summit Brand Billet timing sets are actually SA Gear timing sets. Nice piece for the money. Comes with a torrington bearing and 9 way adjustable crank gear. Youll need to use a 82* countersink bit on the cam thrust plate for the countersunk screws that come with it. About $70. Add a few more smalls things to the order and you skip the shipping charge. Like me, youll be stuck with the tax though.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,296
1,640
214
Acworth, GA
Oct 19, 2013
#5
  • Oct 19, 2013
  • #5
I've always gone with the standard Ford double roller timing set. The iron one which is like $59. $35 has me too suspicious. Sounds like a Chinese job. The last time, I just replaced the chain and not the gears. The gears don't really wear unless something goes wrong anyway. It's a Cloyes 9-130 or something like that. It fits the Ford set as well. Probably fits almost all of them.

Kurt
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
15 Year Member
Apr 26, 2010
2,560
1,146
184
Georgia
Oct 20, 2013
#6
  • Oct 20, 2013
  • #6
Jut looked at the Summit piece. At $70, it looks to be a good compromise on quality vs. cost. Billet steel on both sprockets, Torrington bearing and true roller.

Now, any takers on the valve springs or Sadi vs billet?

Joe
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
5,129
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Maryland
Oct 21, 2013
#7
  • Oct 21, 2013
  • #7
We ran a roll master billet timing set into the 4.80 range
 
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