Timing problems

[Fomocohipo]

I have a 351 cleveland and last night I was tuning my timing and took it out for a spin to see how it was running. Being an idiot i forgot to tighten the distributer hold down nut.... So I got on it a bit then it sounded like a couple fire crackers went off then the engine cut out. Figured its timing but I cant get it to start, even threw #1 at tdc and set the point like a new engine but it wouldnt even get one cylinder to fire. I swaped the point to 180* and it started for a bit ( sounded horrible) then died. IM SOO LOST!

 

[pabear89]

you need to first verify that the dist gear pin did not shear,
pull the cap off and hold the rotor and turn the engine over.
if you can not hold the rotor from turning it is not broke.

then bring #1 to tdc and check the rotor for alienment on the cap,
is it at the #1 plug wire.
it could have slid up when you got on it skipping a tooth ot two.

PB

 

[Fomocohipo]

I went to check that.. its ok so i had a hell of a time geitn the oil pump drive shaft engaged so i pulled that out.... twisted the top hex and snaped off the bottom in the oil pump. and to boot its a hardned hipo aftermarket beefy one. SO i dont know if the dist being loose saved my engine by it breaking and wacking the timing off and killing the engine. of if the broken shaft was caused by the loose bolt. oh god.

 

[pabear89]

The shaft has a keeper on the lower end to not allow it to come out from the top. ( helps keep it in the oil pump when the dist is removed )

Time to remove the oil pan to replace that shaft.

PB

 

[D.Hearne]

I went to check that.. its ok so i had a hell of a time geitn the oil pump drive shaft engaged so i pulled that out.... twisted the top hex and snaped off the bottom in the oil pump. and to boot its a hardned hipo aftermarket beefy one. SO i dont know if the dist being loose saved my engine by it breaking and wacking the timing off and killing the engine. of if the broken shaft was caused by the loose bolt. oh god.

Sounds to me like the oil pump froze. Or possibly the distributor tried to jump out of the hole, breaking the cam gear and the oil shaft. Pull the oilpan, remove the pump and verify that it turns freely, if it does, remove the bottom cover to verify that there's nothing in there, that's not supposed to be there. It would also be cheap insurance to just replace it to make sure it wasn't the problem. A $50 pump cost's a lot less than a rebuild.

 

[Fomocohipo]

Lesson learned: DONT BUY A MILODON OIL PUMP DRIVESHAFT!

http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36359&stc=1

 

[Fomocohipo]

Shouldnt it still fire even if the shaft is broken?? even just a kerdumpdunk

 

[pabear89]

How was that tip broke?
did you do that pulling it out?

If not then pull the pump and check it.
that is not good.

PB

 

[D.Hearne]

Lesson learned: DONT BUY A MILODON OIL PUMP DRIVESHAFT!

http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36359&stc=1

The Ford Racing one's aren't any better. I bent one trying to get the distributor seated in a 5.0.

 

[Fomocohipo]

How was that tip broke?
did you do that pulling it out?

If not then pull the pump and check it.
that is not good.

PB

No it was loose in there and I just pulled it out like that. The broken pump sounds about right, cant pull it till tomorra but does any one here know a place to get a dry sump kit/ parts for a cleveland??

 

[grego37]

The best chrome moly oil pump shafts I've seen are made by Ford Power Parts (FPP)