You need a timing light to properly set the timing. To move the timing from 10 to 14 you would turn the dizzy clockwise. Do you need to know the whole procedure for setting timing?
while we're on the subject, I'd kinda like to know exactly how to as well. I'll be setting mine on my GT tomorrow when I throw the Dizzy back in. I did get the #1 piston to the top on what should be the compression stroke...lifters not lifted. I thought you drop the dizzy in and get it where the rotor points to the #1 cyc., but I just read on a post earlier that on H.O. motors, it should point more towards the driver...
I will be making a trip to Sears tomorrow to get a timing light. I'm not sure which one to get, but i'll search around a little. If someone wants to throw in which features are needed and/or helpful, that would be ok too
It doesn't take much to advance or retard the timing. Just bumping the dizzy while trying to tighten it back down can move it a few degrees. Having a light is the only way to adjust it and get it right.
also helpful is to paint the marks on the balancer that you want. i.e., i have 10* and 14* painted (those newer sharpie markers that are silver work real nice for that and labeling vac lines, etc).
User, i have a light (cheapie) with the advance knob on it, but i dont use it. it tends to read a degree or two off for every ten (for example, i mark the 0* on the balancer, and use the timing light dial to get to 14*). if i do that, then just check it with the light set at 0* and look for my 14* mark, it is off by a degree. see what i mean? i dont trust the advance mechanism on the cheap lights. (and i know the timing didnt slip when i tightened the hold down bolt, which is something to double check. i often inadvertantly bump my timing a smidge when tightening the bolt.)
im sure the good lights are much more accurate. the stang is the first car i've ever used a light on. growing up, my dad always advanced til pinging, and then backed it down a smidge. ive always done the same. i just do it to know what im running. no magical timing advance for anyone. all are different.
Another trick for the balancer is to clean the markings well - use a tooth brush or something that will get into the markings. Then paint over that entire area with White Out - don't worry about trying to just get it in the markings - just cover everything. After it dries (only takes minutes), take a razor blade or exacto, and lightly scrap the surface of the balancer. The White Out on the surface will come off leaving White Out in the markings. You'll be able to see every line very clearly.
If you want to get really anal (a la Yount) pull the balancer, clean, sand and paint a semi-gloss black. Then using a tooth pick and silver enamel model paint, put silver in all the markings. Keep a rag with a bit of mineral spirits on it handy; when you 'color outside the lines' just wipe the surface with the rag - it usually doesn't pull any paint out of the markings.
We did tell you to pull the spout out before you do any of this right? On a Fox, back up the plug/harness from the distributor a few inches and you'll see a little plug you can remove. Start the car, get it warm, loosen the dist. bolt, hook up the timing light, then pull that spout (plug) out. Then set your timing (try 12-14) and plug the spout back in. When you pull the spout you disconnect the line from the computer that controls timing. You always want to set it with the computer not controlling things - spout out. When you plug the spout back in the timing should jump up somewhere between 8 and 12 degrees - you'll read anywhere from 18 to 22 btdc at idle with the spout in. It varies a bit depending on lots of stuff.