Tips on breaking in engine

Exactly what that link says. Make sure to clearance your bearings though. If they are not clearanced properly oil flow will be limited and could fry the engine. Also remember to let the ENGINE WARM UP before you get on it. I would recommend having some friends or something go in front of you and having a cop watch you will be going pretty fast doing that break in procedure. It is proven to be the best and is how I plan to do it when I am done at the end of may or so.
 
69Rcode_Mach1 said:
Exactly what that link says. Make sure to clearance your bearings though. If they are not clearanced properly oil flow will be limited and could fry the engine. Also remember to let the ENGINE WARM UP before you get on it. I would recommend having some friends or something go in front of you and having a cop watch you will be going pretty fast doing that break in procedure. It is proven to be the best and is how I plan to do it when I am done at the end of may or so.

That definitely goes against the grain of what I have been reading. I would think it might be different with older engines...but I am by no means an expert.
 
nope, do difference. just do the 20 high idle for you cam if you have a tappet cam. other then that, run the piss out of the motor. my boss did that with the race 347 we built and it has yet to have a problem. he also used synthetic from the get go, so that dispells another myth in my mind.
 
6Stang7 said:
nope, do difference. just do the 20 high idle for you cam if you have a tappet cam. other then that, run the piss out of the motor. my boss did that with the race 347 we built and it has yet to have a problem. he also used synthetic from the get go, so that dispells another myth in my mind.
Yeah that's the one thing that bugs me about that article, nothing about cam break in.

Unless you have a roller cam, you need the 20 minute cam break-in, right?
 
Yep hack that's right. You can think about engine break in by thinking about well built performance motors, by that I mean ones with gas-porting and lower-tension rings. The rings by their own tension don't push hard enough to break themselves in, and the point of gas-porting is to make the combustion pressure more effective at sealing the chamber while dragging less on strokes without pressure. So the only way a motor like that is going to break in is with some load on it. The principles on cylinder sealing are still the same in stock setups, but ring tension is greater and so it is less important to run so much load through it as the rings contribute more to the break in force required.