Tips to keep car runnin cooler in summer time?

webshot · May 20, 2008

I was wondering if you guys could share some tips on what things that can be dont to keep your car running cooler in the summer.

So far I am:
upgrading to a 3 core radiator.
getting a lower degree thermostat.

Are there any other mods I can do to keep my temp down? It gets really really hot where I am in the summer.

86bluecobra · May 20, 2008

I like to use water wetter. Seems to allow the cooling system to run cooler.

webshot · May 20, 2008

Interesting never heard of the stuff. Is this ideal for use in stock foxes? Went to their site and it seems to be for racing or high HP engines.

Good tip none the less, I learned a new product

Sicarius428 · May 20, 2008

Newer/better radiator is a good choice and a heavy duty fan clutch. For the thermostat don't go any lower than 180*. Make sure that the plastic piece that scrapes on everything under the radiator support is there and keep the fan shroud.
Another misconception is that more rows in a radiator is better. If the overall thickness is 3 inches for both for example, it will be better to have two 1.5 inch rows than 3 three 1 inch rows. Keep that in mind. Another thing to look for is how many fins per square inch. What is your budget for all of this? Also forgot that underdrive pullies won't help either.
Kevin

webshot · May 20, 2008

Dunno dont necessarily have a budget set....But I knwo I want my fox running as cool as possible. Is it better to get a aluminum or brass radiator? (probably a stupid question - wisdom says Aluminum. But I would like to know why )

I gotta check to see if the plastic piece you speak of is there. I know what you are talking about just not sure if it is there. But I like those tips as well.

svtpower · May 20, 2008

tstat

I would stick with the stock temp tstat.

After spending hours and hours trying to figure out why my car was running like crap, I took it to a local shop and they took out the 180 mr Gasket tstat I had, put in a 195 Motorcraft and the car is running 100% better.

I'd make sure your fan clutch is in good shape, put some fresh coolant/water mix in there and maybe a better radiator if you have the cash.

Your car will run best around 195 deg though I can tell you that.

Sicarius428 · May 20, 2008

Brass is technically better than AL at absorbing and dissipating heat. AL is a lot lighter and a tad stronger and if you do catch a rock... easier to zap with a welder. It is pretty much a wash so either one will be just fine. I went for a Griffin Generic 31x19 and it is almost a drop in. A lot of people have had great results with the autozone brass radiator and I think people said it could be had for about 100 bucks. The griffin will run you about 200.
Kevin

HISSIN50 · May 20, 2008

It can be tough to find true 3 row rad's in parts stores these days.

I respectfully disagree regarding earlier thoughts on t-stats. Though I think climate plays into it (I live in the desert. It's 104* today), a simple change in stats should not have any noticable affect on SOTP drivability.

Be sure your fan is up to par as well. This can often make or break a cooling system since we idle so much in the summer. A good fan will help yank temps down since the car isnt under load, and a poor fan will only exacerbate a tendency to run hot.

Water rejects heat ~2.6 times more efficiently than E/G antifreeze. Running something like 25/75 percent coolant/water stoichiometry, respectively, can be helpful.

Though it was written with 94-95's in mind, here's a little tech note I wrote awhile back. It hits many of the items already mentioned by Kevin and others.

webshot · May 20, 2008

Thanks HISSIN....one final question. How do you guys feel about electric fans versus the standard fan? I may pick up a MARK VIII fan. Is it worth it to run that versus the standard stuff?

Gonna check that tech note now.....

cobradvm · May 20, 2008

When my car was running hot I had to do some work on the cooling system. Don't know if you want to do all this but here's what I have and it works very well.

Griffin 31 x 19 radiator
Taurus electric fan
3G alternator upgrade and wiring upgrade to handle the power for the fan
DC Controller to control the fan.

Certainly not the cheapest way to do it, but I don't have to worry about it ever overheating.

webshot · May 20, 2008

YOu have a link to the DC COntroller deal? I cannot seem to find info on it.

cobradvm · May 20, 2008

http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=944420&highlight=dcc

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=716265

Mustang5L5 · May 20, 2008

Running too cool isn't a great thing. You want the coolant around 180-210 degrees. EFI engines run more efficiently when warm. Running too cold can hurt more than help.

Basically if your cooling system is up to snuff, you shouldn't have a prob at all.

I have

Sn95 e-fan
Pep boys 3-core rad
new Bosch water pump
180* tstat
50/50 mix
water wetter

AND, i run underdrive pulleys.

I have an autometer mech. temp gauge and it stays rock solid on 188* all the time. I could be idling in traffic on a 100 degree day and it will never rise above that with the fan on. On cool fall or spring days (and winter when i did drive) i can actually drive around with the fan off and never rise much above 195 degrees.

mustangfan1990 · May 20, 2008

More water is better def in the summer time. There are some tricks that people disagree on but if you use a lower t-stat then it will take longer to warm up. Me for the LONGEST time (WITH NO PROBLEMS AT ALL) I ran no t-stat and it never got over 170 with the fan on in traffic and I was happy with that. Seems now though I am running a 160 t-stat and in traffic my car gets over 200 in traffic but if I can keep from stop and go traffic it will run around 170. I am thinking about taking my t-stat back out though cause when my car gets to oper. temp. (my car being SC) The car is not as strong as it is if it 160 or lower. With me not running an intercooler and running 15lbs of boost ( I know not smart but dont have the money yet) that engine heats up FAST under boost

Fast63 · May 21, 2008

svtpower said:
I would stick with the stock temp tstat.

After spending hours and hours trying to figure out why my car was running like crap, I took it to a local shop and they took out the 180 mr Gasket tstat I had, put in a 195 Motorcraft and the car is running 100% better.

I'd make sure your fan clutch is in good shape, put some fresh coolant/water mix in there and maybe a better radiator if you have the cash.

Your car will run best around 195 deg though I can tell you that.

Yes, indeed.

It is a big misconception that running a lower degree thermostat will keep your car from overheating as much, when in reality, when both thermostats are open there is no difference between them really (in theory). All the thermostat rating means is when the thermostat opens. And yes the 195 is the best choice in all applications.

HISSIN50 · May 21, 2008

Fast63 said:
Yes, indeed.

It is a big misconception that running a lower degree thermostat will keep your car from overheating as much, when in reality, when both thermostats are open there is no difference between them really (in theory). All the thermostat rating means is when the thermostat opens. And yes the 195 is the best choice in all applications.

The difference in opening temps does matter in reality. It prolongs the inevitable, which for some folks is enough of a band-aid to make it through a hot season.

There is also a difference in flow rates amongst the various t-stats.

Lastly, cheaper non-balanced t-stats can be erratic with regard to opening-temp thresholds.

86bluecobra · May 21, 2008

That water wetter will work great on a street car. It works best with just water. It has the additives needed to protect aluminum parts from corrosion aswell.

svtpower · May 21, 2008

Not sure

I have no idea why a colder tstat would work so well for some people and not others.

My car with a 180 would never get up to operating temp. Maybe because my aluminum radiator is so awesome? It would smell like it was running rich all the time, hesitation / bucking and fall on it's face at low rpms.

The only change was the Motorcraft 195 and after that was put in, it now gets up to operating temp in about 3 or 4 mins and no more hesitation.

I guess do whatever works for you.

Sicarius428 · May 21, 2008

I have had bad luck with MR. Gasket t stats in the past. I am running a Be-cool and I can keep a solid 180*. As far as Mech vs Electric fans. If you have a correct setup the electric would be better but has more potential to go wrong being more complicated. It really comes down to money to buy the right equipment. You will need a good controler. I would suggest a DC controler. A 3G alt. is almost a must with the correct wiring so you don't catch your car on fire. A proven fan like a Mark8 or Taurus fan. The benefit of the efan is at idle, the fan will pull enough air to keep the car cool. With a mech fan, you are depended on RPM and with a lot of us running underdrive pullies, at a stop is where we need the most airflow. The thought of better gas mileage has been passed around but for me I didn't notice a difference. The motor will wind up faster but as far as SOTP, no difference there.
Kevin

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