Nope . I said to myself I’d rather take my chances of weakening the brace in the center of the loop a hair then cut a new trans so i cut the center of the brace some on the ds loop so the trans passing through .Has anyone here done the TKO modification to fit a Stifflers drive shaft safety loop ? It doesn't look hard to fabricate without having to cut the unused torque arm boss off. Can't find any pictures or info on the net.
Nope . I said to myself I’d rather take my chances of weakening the brace in the center of the loop a hair then cut a new trans so i cut the center of the brace some on the ds loop so the trans passing through .
Is this nifty product worth $90 more than the Lakewood NHRA approved solution that probably bolts through the floor? It can’t be both lighter and stronger.
So what’s a good fit and price for a loop in these Mustangs?I don't see how, and Lakewood one isn't as good as the BMR one, because it has a ton of clearance issues.
Kurt
BMR single piece loop. Price is irrelevant when you factor in the pain in the ass with the competition. I think I paid $59 for it 20 years ago, but I have not found a competing single piece loop since. I had the Lakewood, and I swear it was designed to be run with open headers. It hung so low that it made fitting an exhaust under it impossible. I ended up giving it away to a friend, and I am fairly certain he through it in the trash because it wouldn't work with his exhaust either. I'll try to get the link to work later. I'm currently hotspotting all of our internet through my phone in Tmobile dead zone, because TS Zeta just took out all of Comcast's internet lines in my neighborhood.So what’s a good fit and price for a loop in these Mustangs?
Ok, I got a link to work while hot spotting through my phone. This is a good website with 6 pictures.
BMR Driveshaft Safety Loop Ford Mustang (1979-1993) Red or Black
Fitment Information Ford Mustang (1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993) Specs & Features Fits 1979-1993 Ford Mustang Bolt-on design No fabrication needed Complies with NHRA rules Required for cars quicker than 13.99 in the quarter mile with...shop.redline360.com
Compare this image to the one from Lakewood. See how the BMR one has a perfect circle that sits above the floor pan mounts? The bottom portion of the unnecesarily large oval shaped Lakewood loop not only has unnecesarry bolts sticking through it that create clearance problems, it also hangs well below the floor pan, creating exhaust clearanace issues. It's a far superior design that is worth the price of admission.
Kurt
I've seen that one...the loop i have does have those dang bolts protruding towards the driveshaft. It actually won't clear my aluminum driveshaft unless I bend the hoop to widen it up.
The BMR one is nice but not for me. No holes will be in my floor. When I get mine made I'll see if he can fab up a couple extra.
I'm sure it's been tested by now, and I think someone would have found out if it caused a vibration problem or something. I am more concerned about weight than normal. Most things are 3300 or 3400 lb weight limit, and my fat piggie is way over.It does look like it may have some weight to it. If I was building a race car I wouldn't care about drilling holes in the floor. There would already be atleast a 10 point cage and a straight axle in it.
To me weight is relative....there's a power to weight ratio....just means it needs more power.
I'm sure there are some heavy beasts running serious numbers. One of them is a full interior trackhawk thats in my racing crew. Its 5300 pounds. A dodge demon weights in at over 4k. Yes, lighter helps....but power makes up for it.
That thing hanging off the transmission mount seems like it would add some harmonic vibrations. Seems like it could turn into some type of tuning fork.
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