To cam...or to Lower

It depends on whether you are going to do it or a shop. Either way, the lowering is going to be cheaper. I've done both, so I can give you what info I have. I'm not saying the parts that I used are "best", etc. but I'm just using them as an example.

Lowering:

Mach I Shocks (Tokicos): $200-shipped
H&R SuperSports: $225-shipped
Pro3i Caster/camber plates: $165-shipped

Total: about $590 for parts and add about $200 for labor if you have a shop do it.

Cams:

Comp Cams XE270AH: $520
Comp valve springs: $180
Valve cover gaskets: $30 (IIRC)
Valve spring tool: $68
AFM Cam retention tool: $29
Extra keepers :mad:: $3
Air hose for spark plug holes (for changing springs): $7

Total: About $837 for everything if you do it yourself. If you have a shop do it, subtract the tools and hose and add about $500 (or more)for labor.
 
I'd go with cams, strictly based on performance over appearence. Although lowering springs do help with handling a little.

You wont regret getting an aggressive cam grind, the improved sound and performance is just to much to pass up given the opportunity.
 
Ruckus46Gt said:
lower it now cam it later thats what i'm doing

That the way I would go. Lowering springs combined with matching shocks/struts make such a dramatic difference in the way the car drives, so if you only could choose one that is the one I would go with.
 
do the cams

since you dont have much intake/exhaust mods it would not be too wise to go stage II VT's.........also your bottom end would still not likely handle the 6500+ revs of the stage II.

so you could go with stage I VT's & you dont need springs with that cam especially with factory rev limit.

that would put you @ about

$580 for shipped cams
$ 30 for valve cover gaskets
$ 40 for AFM cam tool

that is about $650 to do it yourself.
add another $150-$200 for a shop to do.

these will add about 20-23rwhp @ peak.........and about 30-35rwhp @ redline