To Much Fuel?? Please Help

98mustang90

New Member
Nov 21, 2015
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hey guys, i got a 1990 5.0 a few months ago, still trying to work out the kinks, what i know about the car is, it has edelbrock performer heads on it, nice size cam in it ( not sure of the specs), cobra intake and manifold, underdrive kit, suppose to be a 331 block, cant say for sure tho, also has a fuel pressure regulator and gauge on it, also has headers and off road xpipe, so the reason im posting is it smells like its running way to rich burning way to much fuel, when i drive it, and go to get on it sometimes it goes and sometime its like it dies, when im at idle its showing 30 psi on the fuel gauge, not sure if thats right or not? but you can definitely smells raw fuel from the exhaust?!?! i also noticed that the car use to have msd box on it and someone took it off befor i got the car not sure if that matters or not?? just not sure on where to go from here with this problem?? also i no the egr is still on the car but not hooked up,... any help or advice would be great thanks can get pics of motor if needed, thanks alot agine
 
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Lemme help you out by spreading some of this out and we can look at it one item at a time:

hey guys, Hey

i got a 1990 5.0 a few months ago, still trying to work out the kinks, what i know about the car is, it has:

edelbrock performer heads - good
nice size cam in it ( not sure of the specs) - so you've no idea at all if it's a nice sized cam or just a mismatched one
cobra intake and manifold - good
underdrive kit - Get rid of this. It causes more harm than good. Put stock sized pullies back on, especially if alternator is stock.
suppose to be a 331 block, cant say for sure tho - This would be good info
fuel pressure regulator and gauge on it -

also i no the egr is still on the car but not hooked up + headers and off road xpipe = so the reason im posting is it smells like its running way to rich burning way to much fuel, but you can definitely smells raw fuel from the exhaust?!?! - Ok, I chuckled just a little bit. This wasn't tough to solve. :D

when i drive it and go to get on it sometimes it goes and sometime its like it dies - Have you tried pulling codes yet?

when im at idle its showing 30 psi on the fuel gauge, not sure if thats right or not? - That's about right

i also noticed that the car use to have msd box on it and someone took it off befor i got the car not sure if that matters or not?? - Good. Someone saved you a lot of unnecessary headache. The stock ignition system in these cars is good for well into the 500HP range. We don't need no steenking boxez.

just not sure on where to go from here with this problem?? ,... any help or advice would be great thanks can get pics of motor if needed, thanks alot agine

I might start by looking over your vacuum system very carefully. It sounds to me like some half-assed things were done in there.

Pull codes. There's lots of instruction in this forum on how to do that. Post your results back into this thread.


Look into replacing that off-road X with a 3-way catted X-pipe.

What color are the tops of your fuel injectors?
 
i was told it was a F cam, not sure tho, i had it down at a local shop and they said they hooked a scanner up to it and they couldn't get the computer to read?? also i have noticed that when i hit the break my alt/temp gauge jump around, lol i no it sounds carzy but thats what it does,, and most of the work was done at a performance shop befor i got the car, i have some paper work for that but not all,, gonna get a few pics maby you can see something worng that i cant lol, and is there anyway i can get rid of that raw fuel smell with out hooking up the erg or putting cats on?
 
Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

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If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

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The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

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The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
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Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader 3145.
It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.
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