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Tools needed for X pipe/catback install? Tips?

  • Thread starter Thread starter the98stang
  • Start date Start date Mar 6, 2006

the98stang

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Aug 12, 2005
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Mar 6, 2006
#1
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #1
OK guys the exhaust sh1t is going in soon and I need some tips. I hear the driver's side exhaust mani bolts can be a b1tch to break loose. I plan to soke the bolts with PB blaster the night before the install. But what extensions am I going to need?

Since I am installing the catback and the X pipe at the same time, what should I install first? X pipe first, then catback?

Thanks for any tips guys! I'll be doing this with jack stands in my garage....
 

Stang|ess

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#2
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #2
http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/maci1.htm
http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/hpip1.htm

I would use those as guides. I never installed my catback, but I did install my midpipe. Good plan on soaking the nut with PB blaster. Make sure to disconnect the negative or youll get a spark shower, and quite a surprize

For the midpipe, I believe only 2 size sockets are needed, 15mm, and 19mm. Youll need a few 3/8 drive extensions and a swivel to be able to put the socket flush on the nut.

Youll also need to either cut off the stock catback or drop the rear axle, your choice.

If youre getting a catless midpipe, youre going to need MILs.
 

tomustang

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Mar 6, 2006
#3
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #3
use long sockets for bolts
have some extensions
best to have a impact gun/air compressor
install the mid-pipe first!

if you don't know it, the passanger side connection needs a gasket
 

rebelleader

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Mar 18, 2003
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Mar 6, 2006
#4
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #4
tomustang said:
if you don't know it, the passanger side connection needs a gasket
Click to expand...

Do you know a part number for the gasket?
 

DocG

5th graders > me. They're not bant
Sep 25, 2005
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Mar 6, 2006
#5
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #5
I re-used my gasket, but mine's an 04. 22mm wrench for the 02's. Plan to use a 5/8 wrench and extensions...1/2 doesn't really fit very well and give you the room you need to seat the socket.

Oh, don't forget the bandaids and neosporin. Good luck, just did mine this past weekend....wasn't too much fun for me.
 

Mach1Run

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Mar 6, 2006
#6
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #6
i just went to the parts counter at the local western auto and told em I needed a new gasket for the passenger side exhaust, between the header and the midpipe, and the looked it up. Think it was 3 or 4 bucks. A set of deep sockets helps as well as a couple of extensions and one of those elbows. I also had a hell of a time with the drivers side sensor on the header.
 

the98stang

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#7
  • Mar 8, 2006
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Thanks guys! I'll let you know how it goes
 

tomustang

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#8
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #8
rebelleader said:
Do you know a part number for the gasket?
Click to expand...
not offhand i don't, i usually keep some in stock just incase because i end up bending them
 

dustang50

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Mar 8, 2006
#9
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #9
I attempted to take my mid pipe off this past week & was unable to get one nut off the passenger side. That was after soaking it in PB Blaster for 2 days, heating it with a torch, and using an impact gun...

Work on the passenger-side manifold nuts first before doing the rest. No use in continuing on if you can't get those ones off!
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
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Mar 8, 2006
#10
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #10
get a mapp gas torch from sears hardware or home depot, rust belt cars will need to do this because our nuts will be rusted on tight, not sure about the southern cars, i don't see to many of them
 
D

DerekStangGT

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#11
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #11
svttech76 said:
get a mapp gas torch from sears hardware or home depot, rust belt cars will need to do this because our nuts will be rusted on tight, not sure about the southern cars, i don't see to many of them
Click to expand...
lol, we never see rust on cars. we got a car from CO the other day at the 'ship and all us guys gathered round to look at the rust.
tech 1 -"what is it? some kind of growth?"
tech 2 -"i dont know, but im sure as h#ll not working on it"
 

Henceforward

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#12
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #12
DerekStangGT said:
lol, we never see rust on cars. we got a car from CO the other day at the 'ship and all us guys gathered round to look at the rust.
tech 1 -"what is it? some kind of growth?"
tech 2 -"i dont know, but im sure as h#ll not working on it"
Click to expand...

Yep, rust is an oddity down here.

Be sure to get pB blaster, a sawzall, correct wrenches, and be sure to remain calm, you might have some trouble with fighting your axle.

Jack up the body(frame), and let the axle fall down as far as it will go, you are gonna need the clearance.
 

the98stang

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Mar 9, 2006
#13
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #13
Henceforward said:
Yep, rust is an oddity down here.

Be sure to get pB blaster, a sawzall, correct wrenches, and be sure to remain calm, you might have some trouble with fighting your axle.

Jack up the body(frame), and let the axle fall down as far as it will go, you are gonna need the clearance.
Click to expand...


This may sound retarded...but where are the frame locations? I just use those notches near the front wheels normally...and the axles
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
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Mar 9, 2006
#14
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #14
DerekStangGT said:
lol, we never see rust on cars. we got a car from CO the other day at the 'ship and all us guys gathered round to look at the rust.
tech 1 -"what is it? some kind of growth?"
tech 2 -"i dont know, but im sure as h#ll not working on it"
Click to expand...




my favorite is the trucks used to tow small salt water boats. NOW thats RUST. I had a explorer that the frame had severe flaking. the rear end housing was even worse.
 
M

Mindstatic Pro

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Jan 15, 2006
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Mar 9, 2006
#15
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #15
the98stang said:
This may sound retarded...but where are the frame locations? I just use those notches near the front wheels normally...and the axles
Click to expand...

Put your jackstands underneath the 2 body rails that run down either side of the car. You cant miss them. You dont want to support the car from the rear axle because you want the rear end to sit as low as possible to make the removal of the exhaust easier. You will want all the room you can get....
 

the98stang

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Mar 9, 2006
#16
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #16
Mindstatic Pro said:
Put your jackstands underneath the 2 body rails that run down either side of the car. You cant miss them. You dont want to support the car from the rear axle because you want the rear end to sit as low as possible to make the removal of the exhaust easier. You will want all the room you can get....
Click to expand...

OK cool...I just didn't know the techniqal term for the body rails

What are the EXACT socket sizes you guys used? What extensions? Swivels?
 

Stang|ess

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Oct 18, 2003
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Hawaii
Mar 9, 2006
#17
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #17
15mm, I think a 19mm, 3/8 drive extensions and 3/8 drive swivel. Might need a 13mm for where the midpipe connects to the catback.

I never isntalled my catback so I dont know those sizes.
 

timeless2

Vi Veri Veni Versum Vicus Vici
Admin Dude
Nov 29, 1999
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Mar 9, 2006
#18
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #18
Pick up an extra set of header studs from a local parts store, in the event you snap your current ones getting the nuts off. You can always return them if you do not use them.
 
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