Walmart. Doritos are on aisle 13 and you'll find cd's (they still make those?) in electronics. But seriously if you live in a metro area there's bound to be some sort of "speed shop" in your area. Try the Google man. Look up performance shops in your area.
Wait a minute wait a minute. Start over for a second. Do you currently have a stock topend and a supercharger or are you starting with a stock motor and looking where to start? If you you have a stock motor and you do the trickflow topend kit with all the extras needed (injectors, pump, gaskets, etc etc) it'll cost you around $3500 give or take and you'll probably make up to 300 hp the wheels. After looking at a bagillion posts and dyno graphs it seems like the average is about 280 hp. If you have a stock motor and add a supercharger you'll spend about the same but you'll be closer or a tad over the 300 hp mark.
So if you are currently running a supercharger w a stock topend then you should be making around 300 hp if all is up and running well. If you're looking for more, even a set of gt40 cylinder heads will get you to around 400 hp. So long story short. If are stock and are wanting to go faster for a lil cheaper go the Vortech route. If you have the money and wanna go even faster do both.
So if you are currently running a supercharger w a stock topend then you should be making around 300 hp if all is up and running well. If you're looking for more, even a set of gt40 cylinder heads will get you to around 400 hp. So long story short. If are stock and are wanting to go faster for a lil cheaper go the Vortech route. If you have the money and wanna go even faster do both.
Ok. Yea stock motor with the vortech is what I have. I believe. All I see on te top end is some shiny edelbroxk valve covers. As for the rest it has been painted an ugly orange and I need it check really and see if I can any numbers. But I think it's stock. I just bought it a few weeks ago. And I can't get ahold f the guy I bought it from because he's in jail for murder. So that's a no go aside from writing a murderer a love letter in the big house lol. As for shops.... Nope. Closes one to me is 5-6 hour drive. I've called everywhere local and asked if any of them knew if anythig close. And nope.
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Boo. Nope not me if he's on a budget I'd run the fmu, stock pump, t-Rex inline, stock maf, and 19 # injectors and let em tune it. I did all of the above with a 95 GT that has e7's, .512 lift cam w 281 duration, and a ported ho lower intake. It made 332 hp 334 tq and after the tune the a/f was on like Donky Kong. Before my turn they were tuning a foxbody w stock everything down to plugs and wires w the Vortech kit w fmu etc. After they changed the dumb butt's plugs and wires it made exactly 300 hp. Knock the fmu all ya want but after a tune it works. Now would I use an fmu if I had a "topend kit" and forced induction? No, no I would not.
Well crap.. Long way for a tune, but if the car will make it there maybe you can schedule in advance. The other option for a tune would be buying the stuff like MegaSquirt (yes horrible name I know, makes me think dirty..) and self tuning on the fly but it'll cost about the same and there's a learning curve. I hear of some guys who let you rent the stuff and then they burn you a chip. Have you looked at the ecu to see if there is a chip already? How fast are you trying to go? For what it's worth, I ran the fmu setup w out a tune for a few months. It drove ok but something was amiss. When I finally got it tuned the 1st pull (un-tuned) made 241 hp. After tuning the last pull made the fore mentioned 332. Driveability and overall performance were nite and day after the tune.
Yea. I Definately plan on taking the drive eventually. In te next month or so. I just did the suspension. Everything except the rear control arms but those I can do anytime. I just kind of wanted to
Know if the stock block "in theory" can handle adding the top end track heat kit. With the charger. I get that all
Depends on what shape the block is truly in. The money isn't a problem. I'm also going to build another motor. Probably just get a boss block and start there. But whilst building I wanna rip the
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Know if the stock block "in theory" can handle adding the top end track heat kit. With the charger. I get that all
Depends on what shape the block is truly in. The money isn't a problem. I'm also going to build another motor. Probably just get a boss block and start there. But whilst building I wanna rip the
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Bummer, this might be the first year I actually make it. 9,000rpm doesn't sound like an ideal setup for the 1/4 don't blame you at all.
He could also buy a quarterhorse and have someone remote tune it, for less than the cost of dyno tune.... OR megasquirt.
^^This guy might know a thing or two about a thing or two in regards to tuning with QH. That's the word on the net anyways.
My suggestion, since it seems like you want to go fast and have this as a hobby, is to learn to tune yourself. With the nearest dyno tuning place being 5+ hours away you do not want to rely on them to tune the bugs out. It rarely is just a one and done tune and then your good forever. If you start swapping parts out, adding or subtracting, you will need to "fine tune" your tune. Do you want to keep paying others and/or traveling long distances every time something changes or there is a hiccup in the tune?
Megasquirt, quarter horse, Micro squirt (PiMP), Anderson PMS are the most popular self tuning kits with PMS being last IMO. For the cost of one LONG trip to the dyno you can purchase these kits and start learning to tune your own car and there is tons of tech support provided by the manufacturer. The place that dyno tunes locally to me cannot burn chips or change my ECU so I still would have had to purchase tuning software and then still have to pay them to tune it ($500-$800). No thank you, i'll learn it myself and keep the cash for other mods especially since the Pimp comes with self tuning software to get you about 80% there then you just fine tune it.
I use a single in tank pump to support 750hp on E85... So I can see your point. Myself personally, I'd never recommend an FMU to anyone. Its easier and more reliable to just get the right components and tune the car.
I wouldn't say it's easier if one's not pulling the intake off for a swap. As far as reliability and tuning. Tuning didn't/doesn't seem to be a problem with a mild combo and as for the realiability I'll make a thread if it craps out. But for the op and anyone else wanting to do a topend + forced indiction I wouldn't to the fmu route. Too much power being made and plus it'd be silly to have the old topend off and not go back w new injectors when putting it back together.