Suspension Torque Rear Control Arms - Ride Height On Jack?

Bill Cool

Previously 87MustangGT
Founding Member
Nov 18, 1999
Seymour, CT
I'm in the process of replacing rear suspension bushings, and as I understand it, the car needs to be at ride height before torquing the LCA and UCA bolts. I'd rather avoid putting the wheel back on, dropping the car to the ground, then's gotta be easier to get a wrench in there with the wheel off, nevermind bolting the sway bar back on.

Any thoughts on how to get a roughly accurate ride height while jacking up the rear axle? My GoogleFoo and SN searches are failing tonight :mad:

Am I overthinking this? Just had a realization that I could probably just support the car by only jacks/jackstands under the axle and torque that way....?
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This is only necessary if you're using stock-style rubber bushings where the bushing is bonded to the inner sleeve. If that's the case, jack the car up front and rear with the rear jackstands placed under the axle.
Poly bushings are free to rotate around the sleeve in the pocket, whereas the sleeves on stock-style bonded bushings are captured by the clamping force and are not allowed to rotate. The stock style bushing doesn't rotate, it deflects around the sleeve. If you tighten it down with the suspension extended, you're heavily preloading it at ride height, which is bad for the ride, bad for the ride height, and bad for the bushing.
as long as the cars weight is on the suspension as it was designed to be, aka with the tires on the ground, or a simulation there of, jack stands under the rear axle housing for instance, then you are fine to torque the stock bushings as if the car was on the tires.