Total Nightmare

[xxxCadillacxxx]

I was noting the simplicity of my setup which i never had problems with. Its the quick/easy/cheap fix that suits my needs and i think Black Sun's. Your point is well taken though and i am intrigued. How about a link to where i can learn more and buy this Delta Current control.

 

[04sleeper]

http://www.dccontrol.com/

 

[Black Sun 5.0]

Just out of curiosity, is anyone else on this board running the Delta Current controller? I personally do think the wiring job was messed up on the original install.

 

[Michael Yount]

A bunch of folks are running the controller - but since your question is buried in this thread - it may take another post to ferret them out. Here's a little write up we did on mine:

http://www.etnracing.com/pages/Tech/FanControl.htm

 

[Michael Yount]

Caddilac - I'm with ya; I've just seen too many 'budget' solutions end up, ultimately, costing much more because they didn't really address the problem. Sounds like yours is working fine for you.

 

[Black Sun 5.0]

Thanks, I already ordered mine. And yes, the install appears to be idiot proof.

 

[HISSIN50]

im sure Michael keeps better tabs than i do on whom runs the controllers. off the top of my little bean, i seem to recall that Tom and Ryde On also use them. i know there are others, i just cant remember.

:OT: ive been working on some stuff on the 4th gen camaro - the thermostat temp and fan coming on temp are 45* apart, stock!! if i had the money, i would be ALL over one of those controllers. nice product.

 

[racerraj]

I put a DCCONTROL FK35 on my Taurus fan, Baskin said that would work fine. He was wrong! It works FANTASTIC. I've tried many ways to beat the cooling problem in stop and go traffic with the A/C on MAX in humid 100 degree south florida weather. Then I got the Taurus fan, read Michael's comments about burning relays, then going to the DCCONTROL. So I skipped the hassle, and went to the DCCONTROL. Very easy to connect! Super efficient! Also keeps the load off the alternator under normal driving, since max cooling isn't needed.

 

[Down]

A bunch of folks are running the controller - but since your question is buried in this thread - it may take another post to ferret them out. Here's a little write up we did on mine:

http://www.etnracing.com/pages/Tech/FanControl.htm

Since you seem to be a big advocate and user of these dontrollers, I got a queation for ya. I was reading on the site about the loss of spike, etc. I've heard from some folks that due to the more melloe load these put on, you can step up to Mark VIII fan territory w/o and alternator upgrade. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks,

J

 

[racerraj]

I think you'd still need an Alternator upgrade. With my Taurus Fan on a Hot South Florida Day, My voltage drops when in heavy traffic. Add stop and go, Rain, and A/C Fan on High, and the voltage drops below 12 sometimes add idle. Add all that plus lights, and it my drop below 12 even at low rpms, not just idle. I have a Bosch 3G 130 amp alt too.

 

[Michael Yount]

down - email Brian at dccontrollers and ask him your question - he'll give you an idea of what the answer is for your particular application. It's gonna vary with each application - the variable is how much of the fan's capacity will be needed to cool your car (auto or manual? a/c or no? Hot climate or no? Stop and go traffic or no?; other big electrical accessories or no?; extra cooling capacity in your radiator or no?) - you can see there are LOTS of variables. My SPAL fans pull somewhere around 30-35A at full speed. I have a/c and live in a fairly warm/humid summer southern climate. When they were operating in full on-full off mode, I didn't even try with the stock 65A alternator. I upgraded to a 95A unit. It was taxed when the fans would "hit". My voltmeter would stay pegged a bit above 14V under normal operating conditions - but when the fans hit - it'd drop down into the 12.5-13V range - which probably meant I wasn't charging the battery much. The idle speed would take a hit for a second til the computer could re-stabilize it.

Since I put the Delta Current controller on, the voltmeter almost NEVER goes below about 13.5V - and that's only at night with the a/c, lights and stereo on. In daylight driving, or with no a/c on - the gauge just stays pegged right up against the 14V mark. So it definitely made a HUGE difference in how hard my fans are working my alternator and battery. I got Brian's indicator light because quite frankly, I couldn't tell when the fans were on or off 99% of the time - with the controller there's no longer any indication like fan noise, idle speed variation or voltmeter drop.

The wild card here is how different is your set up than mine, and how 'hard' will your car need to use the MkVIII. Brian can help you answer that better than me. However, to me it's a no brainer. Because it controls temp so much more effectively, because it uses (most of the time) so much less current, because it's so much easier on the charging system and fan motor - it's worth it to get it for that alone. Put it on - if you find you have to upgrade the alternator anyway you haven't lost anything because - well, you certainly would've had to upgrade if you were running the MkVIII wide open with switches and relays.

 

[MUSTANGJOE]

So if my car overheats I risk blowing a head gasket?

 

[Michael Yount]

Blown head gaskets, warped heads, cracked components - all possibilities with overheating. But sometimes, when things cool back off, nothing much has been affected - and no harm done. Depends on the situation - head material, age of gaskets, all sorts of things. Impossible to predict what's gonna happen in a particular situation -- we can only tell what's happened in the past.