Tps .98v - Voltage Experience

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

So I had a 65mm frpp throttle body on my covra intake, I did have the so called magic number on it .98v but from what we all know .50v - .99v is supposed to be fine and within the computer over all final number. Cannot remember what that number is, someone who knows it could verify that number.
I then bought and installed a 75mm throttle body and put my fairly new tps back on it from the 65mm tb. So i do the .98v just because and it ran very well. So later i adjusted the idle and i had to reset the tps voltage. Problem is, i borrowed my buddies volt meter before and he was outta' town. So my neighbor had one but it didn't show tbe final number, it only showed .7, .8, .9 or 1. So i got it set on .9 just because. But then I drove the car and it ran like a raped ape, it was very noticeable in the powerband and breaks the tires loose way more easier than before. So I was like sh!t, what f@cking tps number is this at cause it was way different than before. So I did look for my own volt meter that I had stored, finally found it a retested that the final number and it came out to .93v. Have no idea what my final WOT number is but f@ck, but .5 volts made a world of difference. So if your bored go test up or down on your set up maybe you'll notice something too. Maybe I'm able to notice it more cause I'm in the 280-300rwhp neighborhood but it was a HUGE difference, makes me wanna go do a dyno again, seriously

 

[Bullitt347]

Maybe more to do with the increase in throttle body size than anything to do with the tps voltage. I seriously doubt that the tps voltage change has anything to do with it.

 

[jrichker]

Setting the TPS at .98 or .99 volt is a Bozo Internet Myth. When the computer powers up and initializes the TPS sensor, whatever it reads is the zero starting point for it. In other words your .98 volt becomes 0 volts and the computer watches for increases in voltage from that point upward.

Setting the TPS: you'll need a good Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to do the job. Set the TPS voltage at .5- 1.1 range. Because of the variables involved with the tolerances of both computer and DVM, I would shoot for somewhere between .6 and 1.0 volts. Unless you have a Fluke or other high grade DVM, the second digit past the decimal point on cheap DVM’s is probably fantasy. Since the computer zeros out the TPS voltage every time it powers up, playing with the settings isn't an effective aid to performance or drivability. The main purpose of checking the TPS is to make sure it isn't way out of range and causing problems.


Wire colors & functions:
Orange/white = 5 volt VREF from the computer
Dark Green/lt green = TPS output to computer
Black/white = Signal ground from computer

TPS troubleshooting steps:
1.) Use the Orange/white & Black white wires to verify the TPS has the correct 5 volts source from the computer.
2.) Use the Dark Green/lt green & Black/white wires to set the TPS base voltage. Try this... All you need is less than 1.0 volt at idle and more than 4.25 at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). You'll need a voltmeter with a 1 or 3 volt low scale to do the job.

The Orange/White wire is the VREF 5 volts from the computer. You use the Dark Green/Lt green wire (TPS signal) and the Black/White wire (TPS ground) to set the TPS. Use a pair of safety pins to probe the TPS connector from the rear of the connector. You may find it a little difficult to make a good connection, but keep trying. Put the safety pins in the Dark Green/Lt green wire and Black/White wire. Make sure the ignition switch is in the Run position but the engine isn't running. Set the voltmeter on the 2 volt range if it doesn’t auto range.

Here’s a TPS tip I got from NoGo50

When you installed the sensor make sure you place it on the peg right and then tighten it down properly. Loosen the back screw a tiny bit so the sensor can pivot and loosen the front screw enough so you can move it just a little in very small increments. I wouldn’t try to adjust it using marks.

(copied from MustangMax, Glendale AZ)

A.) Always adjust the TPS and Idle with the engine at operating temp. Dive it around for a bit if you can and get it nice and warm.

B.) When you probe the leads of the TPS, do not use an engine ground, put the ground probe into the lead of the TPS. You should be connecting both meter probes to the TPS and not one to the TPS and the other to ground.

C.) Always reset the computer whenever you adjust the TPS or clean/change any sensors. I just pull the battery lead for 10 minutes.

D.) The key is to adjust the TPS voltage and reset the computer whenever the idle screw is changed.

The TPS is a variable resistor, must like the volume control knob on a cheap radio. We have all heard them crackle and pop when the volume is adjusted. The TPS sensor has the same problem: wear on the resistor element makes places that create electrical noise. This electrical noise confuses the computer, because it expects to see a smooth increase or decrease as the throttle is opened or closed.

TPS testing: most of the time a failed TPS will set code 23 or 63, but not always. Use either an analog meter or a DVM with an analog bar graph and connect the leads as instructed above. Turn the ignition switch to the Run position, but do not start the engine. Note the voltage with the throttle closed. Slowly open the throttle and watch the voltage increase smoothly, slowly close the throttle and watch the voltage decrease smoothly. If the voltage jumps around and isn’t smooth, the TPS has some worn places in the resistor element. When the throttle is closed, make sure that the voltage is the same as what it was when you started. If it varies more than 10%, the TPS is suspect of being worn in the idle range of its travel.

TPS will not go below 1 volt

Note: Make all resistance checks with the ignition switch in the OFF position. Failure to do so will result in incorrect results and may possibly damage the meter.

Engine mounted sensor circuit: Check the resistance between the black/white wire on the TPS and battery ground. It should be less than 1.5 ohms. Higher resistance than 1.5 ohms indicates a problem with the 10 pin connector, computer or the splice inside the main harness where the wire from the 10 pin connectors joins the rest of the black/white wire.

See the graphic for the location of the 10 pin connectors:
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.

Unplug the white 10 pin connector to do some resistance testing. It is good time to clean the connector pins and examine the connector for corrosion, broken wire or other damage. See http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=85 for help in this department.

If the resistance on the TPS Black/White wire and pin 1 of the white engine fuel injector harness 10 pin connector, is more than 1.0 ohm, you have bad connection or broken wiring. Repeat the test using the pin 1 of the white body side 10 pin connector and battery ground. You should have less that 1.5 ohm. More than that is a damaged signal ground inside the computer or bad connections or wiring.

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

Maybe more to do with the increase in throttle body size than anything to do with the tps voltage. I seriously doubt that the tps voltage change has anything to do with it.

like i said i drove it wirh the new 75mm for a bit but i adjusted the idle later. it ran great but WAY different when i set it the 2nd time.

 

[Mustang5L5]

The computer just takes the voltage and applies that as baseline and adds a set value to it to trigger wot. The actual number at idle doesn't make a difference because it's just reference and "rezeroed" each time you start the car.

Adjusting the TPS While the car is running will make a difference because you fool the EEC into thinking the throttle is opening so it adjusts timing then based on the reference it used when you first started the car. As soon as the car is turned off, it's all out the window


Anything from 0.6-1.1 volts is fine. Outside that range will trigger a engine code (but no light) . I simply stopped setting TPS now. I slap it on, run the codes and if no code...I move on.

 

[Bullitt347]

like i said i drove ir wirh the new 75mm for a bit but i adjusted the idle later. it ran great but WAY different when i set it the 2nd time.

Well, then it probably has more to do with the ecu adapting to the new configuration. It takes a few drive cycles for the ecu to optimize after any changes. As jrichker pointed out the actual voltage change made at the tps is a none factor. Or something else changed that you are not aware of and are attributing it to the tps because that is where you focus was.

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

oh yeah two things, i only had key forward when setting and it was not running, but i do have a chip, maybe it hyped it up some how it certainly changed the driving characteristics though.

 

[toyman]

As jrichker pointed out the actual voltage change made at the tps is a none factor.

The ECU is expecting to see voltage in the idle position (94-95s) of between .65v - 1.25v. (see attached graph from Ford service manual Electronic version). If it's outside this range the TPS is likely bad and the ECU will throw a code. In that sense voltage is important. Also, recognize that the idle rpm is a commanded/hard parameter in the ECU. Once the ECU has determined that the TB valve is in the closed position it will reference all the sensors needed to maintain the idle at the commanded value. (Manual 640 +/-10 rpm, auto 704 +/-10 rpm)

Want to point out that jrichker often references the earlier ECUs and they may not always behave the same as the SN95s and the trouble codes (DTCs) for the SN95s are three digits not two.