TPS Replacement

AxlsDemocracy · Jun 15, 2005

Has anyone replaced their TPS before? I need to replace mine and I am stumped. LOL I read online that all I need to do is unscrew it and replace it, but due to its location, I can't screw ....How do I take this damn thing off?

CManT1914 · Jun 15, 2005

AxlsDemocracy said:
Has anyone replaced their TPS before? I need to replace mine and I am stumped. LOL I read online that all I need to do is unscrew it and replace it, but due to its location, I can't screw ....How do I take this damn thing off?

It'd be a hell of a lot easier if you took the throttle body off. When you go to take the TPS off, make sure you soak the screws in some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench or the like, they're in REAL tight. If you still can't get them out (since you mentioned you're replacing it) then you can just drill straight through the screw and pull it off that way. That's what I did when I swapped throttle bodys. Good luck

sawbones25 · Jun 15, 2005

Just remember the voltage has to be reset when installing a new TPS.

Do a search here, there should be about 10,000 threads explaining the procedure.

CManT1914 · Jun 15, 2005

sawbones25 said:
Just remember the voltage has to be reset when installing a new TPS.

Do a search here, there should be about 10,000 threads explaining the procedure.

I thought the 94/95 computers baselined the TPS at startup? Only the foxes required the TPS to be set.

HISSIN50 · Jun 16, 2005

Foxes baseline also, but with all the idle surging issues both cars have, it does not hurt to check the TPS setting at a minimum.

mo_dingo · Jun 16, 2005

Take off the IAC valve, and you will have access. Or take off TB completely.

either way, when you are ready to replace it, get replace the damn phillips head screws with hex head screws. that will save any future annoyances and help you in adjusting TPS voltage at idle.

YOu want to be around .90 - 1.1V at idle and somewhere in the range of 4.66V at WOT. The car does not need to be running to do this, only key in acc.
Scott

AxlsDemocracy · Jun 16, 2005

OK, this is turning into something I don't feel like doing myself, LOL. How much do you think a shop would/should charge to do this?

94MustangGT5.0 · Jun 16, 2005

I second that those screws are in tighter than ****! I put my TB in a vise to hold it and tried every method possible using a simple screwdriver, and just didn't have enough force to get it. Then I tried to use one of the screwdrivers you hit with a hammer and it back screws out (no clue what you call it) and broke the ear off of the TPS! Its amazing how easy the screw came out after that. Anyways, it cost about $50 from Ford, so be careful and definitely use some penetrating oil, I probably would have gotten mine out if I took more time and wasn't being impatient.

WHITE94COBRA · Jun 16, 2005

I used my drill with the scredriver bit on it and it came out really easy. I sprayed a little wd40 on before hand though.

HISSIN50 · Jun 16, 2005

94MustangGT5.0 said:
Then I tried to use one of the screwdrivers you hit with a hammer and it back screws out (no clue what you call it) and broke the ear off of the TPS! Its amazing how easy the screw came out after that.

Impact driver. Very useful tool to have on hand. The bits are hardened and you can use a lot of torque with the large grip surface. Anyone who pulls bowls off bike carbs has probably had to use one (or vice grips on the side of the head of the screw) since the pot metal screws seize into the carb.

Methodical · Jun 16, 2005

I used old faithful to get the screws out - Vice Grips (Grip pliers). Do it your self it's not hard. Peace

legalize420 · Jun 16, 2005

use a rotary tool to make room for a big flathead

91LX_5L · Jun 16, 2005

yea you can rotate the IAC by taking off one bolt then you can get at the TPS.

But I found out down the road its easy as hell to take off the entire TB. Just do it that way.

Drill out your TPS holes to about 2x the size that way you can get a good reading.

TPS Replacement

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