Trak Loc Rebuild
- Thread starter Kilgore Trout
- Start date
98blackstallion
Member
Here is the carbon fiber:
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=6942
Here is the standard kit:
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=5105
I still want to know how to do it... Or any advice on doing it...
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=6942
Here is the standard kit:
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=5105
I still want to know how to do it... Or any advice on doing it...
kilgore you might not need it rebuilt. just drain and fill your diff and see if your traction-lok works.
jstreet0204
Active Member
Traction-LOK
Special Tools
Disassembly
Continued in next post...
Special Tools
Disassembly
- Remove the differential case.
- Remove the 10 ring gear bolts.
- CAUTION: Care should be taken not to damage the bolt hole threads. Insert a punch in the bolt holes and drive the ring gear off.
- NOTE: The anti-lock speed sensor ring cannot be reused once removed. Remove the speed sensor ring, if required.
- Using the special tools, remove the differential bearing.
- Repeat for the other side.
- Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt and remove the differential pinion shaft.
- WARNING: Due to the spring tension, care must be used when removing the differential clutch spring. Remove the differential clutch spring.
- Remove the differential gears.
- CAUTION:Keep the differential clutch packs in order. Do not mix them. They must be reassembled in the same sequence. Remove the differential clutch packs and differential side gears and tag them "right" and "left" with the shim.
- Clean and inspect the remaining parts of the differential case for wear or damage and install new parts as necessary.
- CAUTION: Do not use acids or solvents when cleaning the differential clutch pack. Wipe components with a clean, lint-free cloth only. Clean and inspect the differential clutch packs for wear and install new parts as necessary.
- CAUTION: 118 ml (4 ounce) of the specified Ford Friction Modifier must be used in the axle. Prelubricate each steel clutch plate and soak all friction plates with additive Ford Friction Modifier C8AZ- 1 9B546-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification EST-M2C118-A for at least 15 minutes.
- CAUTION: Do not mix the differential clutch packs or shims from one side with the other. Assemble the differential clutch packs (without the shims) on the respective differential side gears.
- Place the base portion of the special tool in a vise. Install the differential clutch pack and differential side gear (without the shim) on the gauge.
- Position the special tool hand-tight on top of the differential clutch pack.
- Install the special tool over the disc and differential clutch pack.
- Install the nut of the gauge over the top and base stud.
- NOTE: Clutch Pack Rebuild Kit FSAZ-4947-A is available for this application. Use the Feeler Gauge and select the thickest blade that will enter between the tool and the differential clutch pack. The reading will be the thickness of the new clutch shim.
Continued in next post...
jstreet0204
Active Member
- Remove the special tool from the clutch pack and side gear assembly.
- Install shims on the clutch pack and side gear assembly.
- Install the differential side gear in the differential case.
- Install the differential pinion gears with differential pinion thrust washers in the differential case.
- Install the differential clutch spring, using a soft-faced hammer.
- Install the differential pinion shaft and install a new differential pinion shaft lock bolt finger-tight.
- Use the special tool to install the differential bearing on the differential case. Repeat for the other side.
- CAUTION: Make sure that the notches on the case flange and the anti-lock speed sensor ring are aligned. Press the new anti-lock speed sensor ring and the ring gear on the differential case.
- Install the ring gear bolts.
- Apply Stud and Bearing Mount EOAZ-19554-BA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G349-A1 to the ring gear bolts.
- Check the torque required to rotate one differential side gear.
- Mount the differential case and special tool in a vise.
- The initial minimum break-away torque, if original clutch plates are used, must be within specification. The minimum rotating torque required to keep the differential side gear turning with new clutch plates may vary.
- Install the differential case.
The numbers got messed up when pasting but you get the idea.
hognutz
New Member
those instructions are for a different trak lok than is in my car.
there is no speed sensing ring on my carrier. also there is no need to remove the case bearings. Iknow it came apart with the ring gear on. I did not put it back together to see if you have to have the ring gear off to get the s-spring back in.
there is no speed sensing ring on my carrier. also there is no need to remove the case bearings. Iknow it came apart with the ring gear on. I did not put it back together to see if you have to have the ring gear off to get the s-spring back in.
hognutz said:
no thats the same trac lok that in your car. but thats the instructions for the NON pre shimed clutch packs. the kit most of us buy is the pre shimed ones. the pre shimed ones come with instructions.
the reason the bearings have to come off is too use the special tool for measuring the clutch packs. and yes you do have a tone ring like that. it's sandwiched behind the ring gear and is removable.
you can do the PRE SHIMED ones with the ring gear and bearings and stuff in place. in fact i do them in the car, i don't even remove the carrier when doing the pre shimed kits.
the non preshimed is better because you can set the action of the traction lok, in fact some people are removing one plate and adding a extra clutch disc
Outlaw97GT
Member
I wouldnt think after 20k miles that you would need to rebuild your diff.
I got mine rebuilt when I got the 4.10's installed 2 months ago. I used the standard kit payed around 50 bucks for it at 50resto. My car at the time had about 80k on it.
Just thought while Im getting the gears just to spend the extra 50 bucks and do it all. I replace all the bearings also.....
Not sure about the cost, Ive know the mechanic for years and he did it all 250.00 .
I got mine rebuilt when I got the 4.10's installed 2 months ago. I used the standard kit payed around 50 bucks for it at 50resto. My car at the time had about 80k on it.
Just thought while Im getting the gears just to spend the extra 50 bucks and do it all. I replace all the bearings also.....
Not sure about the cost, Ive know the mechanic for years and he did it all 250.00 .
250 is a good install price. that swhat i do them for on the side ( not including any axle tube welding) bring it in the shop and it will cost way more.
Outlaw97GT
Member
Why are you doing this?
Are you opening the rear-end for a different problem?
If your just having the one-wheel blues, try changing the gear oil and friction modifier first.
Are you opening the rear-end for a different problem?
If your just having the one-wheel blues, try changing the gear oil and friction modifier first.
hognutz
New Member
svttech76 said:
my gears will not slide through top hole in the diff. I can post pics if you want. I have it sitting right out in my garage.
there is not tone ring there either. I just pulled the ring gear. there is the carrier and the ring gear that is it. that is the same way my 31 spline I just installed was as well.
my abs tone rings are on my axles.
hognutz said:
they don't mean to shove them thru the carrier that way. the pic is meant to show you how the side gears with the clutches fit iinto the carrier. to insert them into the carrier you go thru the middle of the carrier, that would be impossible on any carrier to insert the discs thru the openings where the axles go thru.
and your right the tone rings are on the axles. I don;t know what i was thinking. it's the trucks that have the tone ring behind the ring gear.. I deal with 20 8.8 truck rear ends to every 1 car 8.8 i have to deal with. mustang and crown vic both have the tone rings on the axles.
hognutz
New Member
this is the pic I am refering to. I can't do this with my carrier. the clutch packs have to go into the center then up into the carrier.
it might just me me confusing what they are showing.
those instruction just look morecomplex than need be. I still can't see removing the carrier bearings for the rebuild. that pick to measure the clutch packs in not in the carrier in any way. I could be wrong I have not done it yet I just dismantled my 28 spline to check it out in case I ever had too. I did not envision needing to pull any bearings off. ring gear possibly to get the s-spring back in place.
it might just me me confusing what they are showing.
those instruction just look morecomplex than need be. I still can't see removing the carrier bearings for the rebuild. that pick to measure the clutch packs in not in the carrier in any way. I could be wrong I have not done it yet I just dismantled my 28 spline to check it out in case I ever had too. I did not envision needing to pull any bearings off. ring gear possibly to get the s-spring back in place.
hognutz said:this is the pic I am refering to. I can't do this with my carrier. the clutch packs have to go into the center then up into the carrier.
it might just me me confusing what they are showing.
yeah just igone that pic. thats to make it easier to see the clutches. they should draw a arrow to where you insert them into the carrier.
thats a 8.8 truck rear end. it's the same except for the 31 spline axles and the tone ring.
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