Transformation of a crapbucket:Volume 1

M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2002

2,976

1

56

North Carolina

Oct 28, 2004

#1

• Oct 28, 2004

• #1

Well, I have read all of the horror stories about getting the rear springs out and thought it was a joke at first: the drivers side came out like it had just been put in a week ago. But then, , the pass. side is still stuck in there and it's after 11 p.m. and I have given up. It is absolutely soaked in Marvel Mysetry Oil and P.B. Blaster. My metal cutting sawzall blade was sheared in 30 seconds.The air hammer didn't work. All attempts at air tools were a joke. I tried using a bolt with a coupling nut to no avail. I will try again tomorrow after the lubes have soaked in and if I have no luck, I will be looking for a stronger blade for the sawzal.

 

charlies

New Member

Apr 30, 2002

390

0

0

in front of computer

Oct 28, 2004

#2

• Oct 28, 2004

• #2

c'mon sally, put some muscle into it

 

M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2002

2,976

1

56

North Carolina

Oct 28, 2004

#3

• Oct 28, 2004

• #3

Charlies, I tilted the jack stands: is that enough muscle for you? Not really, but I was worried about it; does that count?

 

S

steel1212

Active Member

Jun 24, 2004

1,180

0

36

Frankfort, Ky

Oct 29, 2004

#4

• Oct 29, 2004

• #4

I'm about done with what your doing now I6 to v8 conversion, and those dang leafs where a pain. I ended up useing a grinder with a cutting wheel, took awhile but they came out. If you need any of the "what do I need" stuff just pm me. After I get my brakes figured out mine should be on the road.

 

D

ddtforu

New Member

Dec 9, 2003

37

0

0

Santa Clara, ca

Oct 30, 2004

#5

• Oct 30, 2004

• #5

I just got my drivers side off the other night, and let me tell you a GOOD sawzall blade made made it much more manageable. Went through 3 diff types of blades(which would be ground smooth after about 5 minutes. Finally found a good blade that finished the job in about 5 minutes. get to tackle the pass side tomorrow morning, hopefully it'll come free easily.....but I won't hold my breath. Good luck.

 

M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2002

2,976

1

56

North Carolina

Oct 30, 2004

#6

• Oct 30, 2004

• #6

I hoped you lubed it up to sit overnight. I cut the outboard sidof the bolt and the took an air hammer to it. It moved a little but I ran out of room to get the air hammer in there. I made a punch starting with a 1/4" extension adapted to a 3/8" extension adapted to a3/4" extension all taped together with electrical tape to keep them from coming apart. About six whacks later with a 4 lb. sledge and the bolt hit the garage floor! Necessity is the mother of invention. I greased the crap out of everything in case I ever want to change them again, (it's sitting a little high with five leafs). Good luck!

 

notny41

Member

Aug 15, 2004

204

0

16

Minnesota

Oct 30, 2004

#7

• Oct 30, 2004

• #7

I had frozed eye bolts on both of mine (sledge hammer had no effect at all) but 8" C-clamp pressed mine out with no problem. Put one end of C clamp on threads side of bolt and a deep well socket (at least or bigger than the size of the bolt's head over the head and the other end of the C clamp on the socket. Worked like a charm!

 

M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2002

2,976

1

56

North Carolina

Oct 30, 2004

#8

• Oct 30, 2004

• #8

I tried the monster c-clamp and the bracket started to bend so I had to stop.

 

charlies

New Member

Apr 30, 2002

390

0

0

in front of computer

Oct 30, 2004

#9

• Oct 30, 2004

• #9

isn't it amazing what pieces of crap most c clamps are?

every set i have ever had has failed for the same reason. that wussy t-bar. what's that made out of? some kind of super flexible metal?

mustangdave...next time you should use your 1/2" socket as a hammer.