check motor mounts rear bushings
Any transmission leaks or oil leaks? Something that may account for the mount breaking down? How did you check the mount?
Consider checking the motor mounts while you are at it. I think it is more likely the motor mounts are weak and that has contributed to the transmission mount going bad.
A 2000 is almost 10 years old. Mustangs (esp manual ones) can be hard on motor mounts. IMO, it is not as far fetched as it may seam.
It is also possible that the motor is setting lower in the K-member. This is changing the pinon angle. However, I think this is a long shot for your problem.
While you are at it, inspect the bushings on the diff. Look at the lower control arms and the upper control arms on the diff. If the bushings are worn and allowing the rear end to shift forward. The clunking sound may be the slip yoke bottoming out inside the transmission.
Any transmission leaks or oil leaks? Something that may account for the mount breaking down? How did you check the mount?
Consider checking the motor mounts while you are at it. I think it is more likely the motor mounts are weak and that has contributed to the transmission mount going bad.
A 2000 is almost 10 years old. Mustangs (esp manual ones) can be hard on motor mounts. IMO, it is not as far fetched as it may seam.
It is also possible that the motor is setting lower in the K-member. This is changing the pinon angle. However, I think this is a long shot for your problem.
While you are at it, inspect the bushings on the diff. Look at the lower control arms and the upper control arms on the diff. If the bushings are worn and allowing the rear end to shift forward. The clunking sound may be the slip yoke bottoming out inside the transmission.
Maybe someone else can chime in on this. I have always diagnosed bad motor mounts by symptoms such as:
• Increased engine vibration/noise in the passenger compartment
• Motor setting lower in the engine bay. Usually noticed by the decreased clearance between the K-member and the oil pan. Next is the increased clearance between the throttle body and the strut brace (if equipped).
• A motor supported with stock mounts should rotate in response to torque. If it moves up/down or doesn't move hardly at all, this indicates a problem.
• Age/mileage of the vehicle.
There is the old standby method of looking at the mounts to see if the rubber is cracked (not always possible while still on the car).
I have read to use pry bar on the transmission. Almost any movement is bad.
In your case, if you do not find any obvious source of the noise from the engine/transmission mounting, don’t forget to look at the rear differential itself.
The suggestion about the spring perches is a good one. However, IMO, if the spring perch angle proves out, I think there will be other contributing factors as well (control arm bushings, shocks, quad shocks).
In short, look for anything that can cause the differential to move (or rotate) more than it should. Pay close attention to any modifications done previously (lowered, control arms, aftermarket bushings).
• Increased engine vibration/noise in the passenger compartment
• Motor setting lower in the engine bay. Usually noticed by the decreased clearance between the K-member and the oil pan. Next is the increased clearance between the throttle body and the strut brace (if equipped).
• A motor supported with stock mounts should rotate in response to torque. If it moves up/down or doesn't move hardly at all, this indicates a problem.
• Age/mileage of the vehicle.
There is the old standby method of looking at the mounts to see if the rubber is cracked (not always possible while still on the car).
I have read to use pry bar on the transmission. Almost any movement is bad.
In your case, if you do not find any obvious source of the noise from the engine/transmission mounting, don’t forget to look at the rear differential itself.
The suggestion about the spring perches is a good one. However, IMO, if the spring perch angle proves out, I think there will be other contributing factors as well (control arm bushings, shocks, quad shocks).
In short, look for anything that can cause the differential to move (or rotate) more than it should. Pay close attention to any modifications done previously (lowered, control arms, aftermarket bushings).
Yep I had a squeking noise coming from "at the time" my engine bay? Asked several people who are techs. an they couldn't really tell where it was coming from? Bought engine stethiscope checked all over the engine an LUCKLY was nothing wrong with the motor. But the motor mounts were shot. Completely broken an streched out bad. turned out to be quik fix.
Trans. mounts looked good. But i'm goin to change them anywhey?
Trans. mounts looked good. But i'm goin to change them anywhey?
Whats the milage now?
Me personally i would take to a transmission shop. let them see what its doing? an hopefully they could led you in right direction if that seems to be the problem? they are more than likely goin to have better knowledge of something wrong an what it sounds like?
Not that techs at dealerships aren't good mechanic too. don't want anyone hating.
I experience similar noises. Originally I thought it was tranny mount, replaced with no improvements. Then changed u-joints, no improvements. Next step for me is to replace motor mounts and spring isolators, then pray. Following this I will replace my control arms with adjustables to fix pinion angle (lowered 2 inches). If you are going to keep your stang start doing these things. I have 77K miles and all suspension bushings will be upgraded by spring. Matter of time before they are needed anyways.
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