Trick Flow Kit/ top end build up questions?

[Metalcop]

Here is my setup now:
I am running the stock motor w/ Vortech SC trim, 5-6lbs boost. I am using the FMU, and I also have an Anderson Power Pipe w/stock MAF sensor. The only other engine mods I have are a full MAC exhaust w/off-road h-pipe, deleted smog pump, and a 65mm Edelbrock throttle body. Last dyno-tune gave me 275 rwhp, 327 lb ft of torque.

I have got some money to spend, and I want to do the Trick Flow H/C/I top end kit. I also plan on FRPP 30lb fuel injectors, 190 lph fuel pump, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, and FRPP shorty headers. Also I want to do a Crane Hi-6TRC ignition, Crane PS91 coil and finally a C&L (Vortech) 80mm MAF. My goal is 400 rwhp, or as close to that as I can get with this setup.

My questions are:
Are the 30lb injectors large enough?
Is the 190 lph fuel pump large enough?
With this setup, can I do away with the FMU?
Also, does anybody know if this Trick Flow kit, specifically the cam, works well with a supercharger?
I am also wondering about the final tune. Am I going to need a PMS or similar system, or can a reputable tuner simply re-map my factory ECU?
I know that’s a bunch of questions, but I appreciate your input. Thanks a bunch.

 

[Metalcop]

Bump. Looking for some opinions here! Thanks

 

[358stroker]

My opinion and my experience:
1. 30lbers should be ok with the FMU, if you ditch the FMU then 36lbs on up will have to do the trick, you'll have to get it dyno tuned with no FMU.
2. Get a 255lph intank
3. Don't buy the trick flow cam, it's for naturally aspirated, get a custom grind.
4. Get a reputable tuner and dyno tune.
5. Get a SCT mass air meter, C@L mass airs are junk.

 

[gofazt2]

I would have to agree with 358stroker, except for the the camshaft. For the extra 5hp that the a custom grind is going to give you, I do not think it is not worth the extra $150.

Also, If you S/C kit comes with a T-Rex in-line pump then you should not use the 190lph pump because the T-Rex can and will suck the 190 dry.

IMO, I would go 36lb inj, that is about as big as you can go without Idle problems without a dyno tune.

 

[358stroker]

I would have to agree with 358stroker, except for the the camshaft. For the extra 5hp that the a custom grind is going to give you, I do not think it is not worth the extra $150.

Also, If you S/C kit comes with a T-Rex in-line pump then you should not use the 190lph pump because the T-Rex can and will suck the 190 dry.

IMO, I would go 36lb inj, that is about as big as you can go without Idle problems without a dyno tune.

Do you still have your stock feed/return fuel lines? Have you dynoed your car?

 

[Metalcop]

I do still have my stock feed/return lines, and the car has been dyno tuned. I do not have the T-Rex, I have the 'entry-level' Vortech SC trim, which only runs 6 lbs of boost. The car runs very well, right now, with the FMU. I do have occasional backfiring issues, if I am lugging the engine, and try and mash the throttle. If I drive it properly, no issues. Thanks for your responses, so far!

 

[Metalcop]

Do they even make 36 lb injectors anymore? I can't find them anywhere...

 

[5spd GT]

As far as I know they still make the 36lbers. Check summitracing under Ford Racing Injectors.

A custom blower cam would give you more than 5rwhp over the TFS1.

A custom cam isn't just about power. It is about driveability, more power, if you need to pass emissions, tech support for your cam, and other little trinkets, like engine vacuum...can all be attributed to a cam, and better for a custom cam. The TFS1 would be a fine cam though.

If you are able to afford a dyno/chip tune...go ahead and get the 42lb injectors.

If C&L isn't giving you problems now, don't worry about changing, unless you have some extra money.

 

[gofazt2]

Do you still have your stock feed/return fuel lines? Have you dynoed your car?

I still used my stock fuel rails and fuel line when I had this combo in my 91 GT, but I am now switching bodies and going to this coupe and then off to the dyno AFM. I have been using plug reading and the butt dyno and never had any problems with tuning. I keep it under 6500 anyway. I am going to a larger fuel system and injectors while the car is down this time for later upgrades .

My daily driver now is a GT running refreshed stock short block, Box TFS heads, TFS street intake, stupid E-cam, a 10lb pullied S-trim with 36 lb inj and 6:1 FMU on stock lines and rails and it is also running fine.

 

[gofazt2]

A custom blower cam would give you more than 5rwhp over the TFS1.

A custom cam isn't just about power. It is about driveability, more power, if you need to pass emissions, tech support for your cam, and other little trinkets, like engine vacuum...can all be attributed to a cam, and better for a custom cam. The TFS1 would be a fine cam though.

Dont get me wrong...I am a big fan of FTI and their custom cams with excellent drivabilty, but I have run both the TFS stage 1 and 2 with blowers and they work great out on the street, but everyone has there own opinion. Just depends on how you want to spend your money

 

[mustangjoe87]

Do you have to worry about piston to valve clearance with the twisted wedge top end kit?

 

[gofazt2]

Do you have to worry about piston to valve clearance with the twisted wedge top end kit?

The TFS top end kit using a Stage 1 cam works fine with no problems on a stock 87-95 shortblock. IMO the TFS kit is the best top end kit to buy.