Trick Flow TW EFI Kit Questions

[Hoytster]

Hey guys,

I just picked up the Trick Flow Twisted Wedge EFI kit over the weekend. I'm pretty impressed with the kit overall, seems that you get a good quality set of parts for a descent price. Since this is my first H/C/I install, I have a few questions about what additional parts I need to complete this project (and I'm sure many other questions along the way).

With the kit, I also purchased a new set of FMS Hyd. Roller Lifters. I know I will also need:


TFS 94-95 Intake Elbow Adapter
190-255 LPH Fuel Pump
FPR
New Water Pump
3/8th Intake Spacer


I'll also be buying and installing while the engine is apart:


BBK Longtube Headers
BBK Short X-pipe
*Maybe* Aluminum Radiator
Clutch Set (Thinking SPEC Stage 1)
Subframes (Thinking Kenny Brown Double Cross)


Are there any other parts you guys can think of that I'm missing? If I plan on buying a programmer (tweecer, PMS, ect) should I purchase the FPR or can the adjustments be made in the ECU?

Sorry for the long post, I got plenty more questions but this will get me started Thanks!!!

 

[94MustangGT5.0]

Well, you will also need some new injectors (24-30 lbs) and a matching mass air meter. And regarding your question about a FPR, you WILL need to purchase one of those in order to change your fuel pressure. The only other thing that you may need would be gaskets, unless your Trick Flow kit came with them, and maybe some new head bolts. I'm sure there are other things as well, but that's all I can think of now.

 

[final5-0]

Looks like you are gonna have a nice combo.

You'll have a lot of fun putting it all together.

As said above, you'll need larger inj's & maf to go with them

Here is something that could help with your budget

If you decide to self tune with the Tweecer, save your money
and forget the afpr as you tune with stock fuel pressure just as you suspected. As a matter of fact, changing fuel pressure when using this method to tune can be counter productive to your pcm adjustments.

Good Luck and I hope everything turns out as you wish it to be

Grady

 

[Hoytster]

It's a 95 Cobra so it has 24lb injectors already with a matching 76MM C&L. I believe that is big enough for this combo or am I mistaken? I've heard of idle surge problems with the C&L MAF but I'm hoping I can avoid them.


Thanks Grady, I was thinking I would be able to adjust everything through the ECU. I'll put those AFPR $ toward the programmer. I'm hoping with the right tuning and a quality install, I can see 300 rwhp, but I have alot of work ahead of me.

I was looking at the heads tonight and was thinking it might be beneficial to get a basic port job done. The gaskets line up with the intake and exhaust port openings for the most part, but I can definetly see areas where the gasket overlaps the port openings or the port could be opened up more to match the gasket. Would it be benificial to get the heads and lower intake ported or should I just trim the gaskets to match the current port openings? It's not worth it to me to spend ~$400 for a port job thats only going to net me less than 10HP.

 

[final5-0]

It's a 95 Cobra so it has 24lb injectors already with a matching 76MM C&L. I believe that is big enough for this combo or am I mistaken? I've heard of idle surge problems with the C&L MAF but I'm hoping I can avoid them.

My bad I missed the Cobra word all together! I'd use the 24's and C&L since you got them.

Thanks Grady, I was thinking I would be able to adjust everything through the ECU. I'll put those AFPR $ toward the programmer. I'm hoping with the right tuning and a quality install, I can see 300 rwhp, but I have alot of work ahead of me.

Others have matched your goal with similar combos so you should be able to do so as well

I was looking at the heads tonight and was thinking it might be beneficial to get a basic port job done. The gaskets line up with the intake and exhaust port openings for the most part, but I can definetly see areas where the gasket overlaps the port openings or the port could be opened up more to match the gasket. Would it be benificial to get the heads and lower intake ported or should I just trim the gaskets to match the current port openings? It's not worth it to me to spend ~$400 for a port job thats only going to net me less than 10HP.

Yes you would want to mock everything up to each other and see how things match. Don't worry about the gaskets other than making sure they don't hang over in a port thus becoming a restriction to flow. Focus on the port to port match ... not port to gasket match.

Grady

 

[MysteryMachine]

if your sticking with your 70mm tb you wouldn't have to get a TFS adapter you could get and edlebrock they are 70mm openings. The tfs intake is open for a 75mm tb and so is there adapter. Looks like money is no concern but its an option to get a nice used adapter.

And just so happens I have a nice used edelbrock sitting on my floor next to me lol

 

[Hoytster]

I wish money was no concern, I just have a little over 4 grand to complete this portion of "the project" (minus the programmer) and want to do it right the first time.

I should've posted my questions a little sooner! I ordered the TFS Intake Elbow on Fri. and it's already been shipped. Otherwise I'd take you up on that Edelbrock adapter.

 

[final5-0]

I wish money was no concern, I just have a little over 4 grand to complete this portion of "the project" (minus the programmer) and want to do it right the first time.

I should've posted my questions a little sooner! I ordered the TFS Intake Elbow on Fri. and it's already been shipped. Otherwise I'd take you up on that Edelbrock adapter.

I got a thought about that elbow you have ordered.

It flows better that the Edel

I'm gonna move to one sooner or later

Grady

 

[MysticKeith50]

I just did this same thing 2 weeks ago and am pleased and very impressed. The only other thing i suggest is a custom chip to deal with drivability issues, and you will have to do something with your egr. The 3/8 spacer makes it so the pipe is too short. I just deleted mine and had the function shut off with the chip/tweecer what ever you want. I got a block off plate and header cap from wazee. Also...i am not sure if you are keeping your smog stuff, but if you look on the back of your existing heads there is a silver pipe that connects the two and runs to the smog ish....I got an extra set of thermactor plugs(you got one plug per head) to plug off the back of the heads....other than that you should be good. Feel free to email me with any questions...lol...being I did the same thing 2 weeks ago.....oh also you should get injectors and a maf. [email protected]

 

[Hoytster]

Grady,
good to hear the TFS has better flow. Nothing wrong with that



I had heard about the EGR pipe problem with the 3/8 inch space. I would like to keep the EGR system for now, so I wonder if I can just cut the pipe and extend it to fit?

MysticKeith50,
Did your heads come with the single or double valve springs? I thought the 350/370 kit was suppose to come with the street heat heads that had single valve springs? When I look at me heads I have an outer spring, a thicker spring looking object in the middle, and another spring on the inside of that. And Thanks for the offer. I'm sure I'll have some more questions once I dive into this within the next two weeks.

Just curious, what kind of driveability problems did you have right after the install? Was it the normal stall at idle? I had talked to a guy at CJPP (store in Harrisburgh, PA) when I was ordering the kit who said he had the stall at idle and it seem to bog until it reached 1800-2000 RPM.

 

[legalize420]

I had heard about the EGR pipe problem with the 3/8 inch space. I would like to keep the EGR system for now, so I wonder if I can just cut the pipe and extend it to fit?

50resto.com has the egr extension. go to the website and search for egr and you should find it. you could cut it and extend it if you know what your doing.

 

[drakesdad]

Sounds like you have everything that I needed. I cut and welded and extension onto my EGR tube....Make sure you get the correct spark plugs....stock does not fulfill your needs......mistake I made...lol I think I had to purchase a brass fitting for one of the intake holes.........I went to Napa and matched it up but that may be different for you....Good luck

 

[MysteryMachine]

NP man its been sitting here for like 2 years lol guy off here was suppose to buy it then didn't got a hold of him said he still wanted it just had to come up with the money and still nothing. I'm tired of waiting.

Just noticed your In Ephrata not far away at all Finially got 2 people close to me on here lol

 

[MysticKeith50]

yeah...mine had the double springs as well.....I really had no drivability issues as soon as I got the tps voltage right, and got my iac set properly....other than that the chip took care of it, at it certainly doesn't bog at those rpms...you may loose a little up top with the street heat, but who cares. I also used autolite 3924's which are the correct spark plug for the heads.

 

[Hoytster]

Thanks for the info Legalize420.

I'll probably try to extend the pipe at first and put that new welder I bought to some use

Thanks for the spark plug numbers, I had those written down at one time but had lost them. I've checked the kit a couple times to make sure I had all the plugs and such and everything seems to be there except the lower intake manifold bolts. I can't find a comprehensive packing slip for the whole kit so I don't know if I was suppose to receive them or not.

MysticKeith, I hope I'm as lucky as you with the driveability problems. I'm def. going to tune the car shortly after the install, but I'm sure I will "have" to take the car out for a couple runs before that

 

[Hoytster]

MysteryMachine,

Parkesburg is only about 25 miles away from Ephrata. I live in Brickerville now but thats only a few miles from Ephrata. I've actually been on stangnet since 02', just haven't had the parts to talk about until recently

You make it to any events around the area regularly?

 

[MysteryMachine]

Theres events around here?

ha ha guess that answers your question I never hear about anything.

Actually have ideas of starting a club for this area just not sure how to go about it just yet. If i do it you'll be one of the first to know. Just worried I'll spend all the time setting it up and using my money to help spread the word then nobody will show up.

 

[R.J.]

Copy and print the procedure below:

Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

A friend of mine did a TFS package with a 75mm t-body and this procedure was the only thing that got the car to idle correctly. You might not need it but just in case.

 

[go-stang5.0]

Get some global west, MM, or Griggs subframe connectors. I think everyone here will tell you they are better quality than KB.

 

[Hoytster]

Thanks R.J. for the great information in that post.


go-stang5.0
I took a look at those companies. The prices are within range and they all seen to have a little something different to offer. I'll have to take your word on the quality though since I've never seen one of these products in real life. The Full Length SB from MM looks nice, but so does the tubular 909 from global west. Looks like I have some research to do. Thanks for the heads up!