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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Trick Flow vs March A/C delete kits?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Darkwriter77
  • Start date Start date Mar 8, 2007

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
314
281
134
Apache Junction, AZ
Mar 8, 2007
#1
  • Mar 8, 2007
  • #1
Okay, so the UPR A/C delete idler pulley I wasted $60 or $70 on a year ago has decided to start falling apart - the bearing has become loose inside of the pulley, thus giving the pulley just enough wobble to make an obnoxious rattle sound and make me worry it's either going to throw the belt and/or fly apart while I'm going down the highway. So, it's time to look into bracket-style A/C delete kits, instead.

I know that the FRPP kit seems to be the main choice, and the March kit is a close second. I just noticed that Trick Flow has a kit that looks absolutely identical to the March kit, except it's painted black instead of plain aluminum, and only costs $30 instead of $43 through Summit. If it really IS the exact same thing, I'd naturally be more inclined to go for the cheap-o ... because the FRPP kit is also $39 and ... well, I'm cheap. And relatively broke until I pay off my school loans.

Also, according to the example pic of the March kit, this is one of those weird ones that flips the belt tensioner upside-down and backwards, instead of just moving the power steering pump up to where the A/C pump once sat. Is there any disadvantage to either one?

I've read that, at least with the FRPP kit, you sometimes need to add washers to shim the thing out enough to line things up so it doesn't throw or shred belts - is it the same issue with the March-style kit? I can't tell from the pic, but it looks like the P/S pump pretty much just sits where it always does, and only the tensioner gets moved.

Anyone got any horror stories of any of these three kits that should steer me towards one or another type? Or should I go back to the old Über-ghetto route of just running the short weird-sized Goodyear Gatorback belt that uses the factory A/C bracket and barely rubs the belt against itself at the top of the water pump pulley...?

Oh, and I'm running stock pullies, aside from the 3g swap (with a pulley swapped onto it to pretty much match the stock 2g's diameter exactly).
 

gcwh02

New Member
Jun 20, 2005
515
0
0
pottstown, PA
Mar 9, 2007
#2
  • Mar 9, 2007
  • #2
i got the frpp and it fit perfect, no washers or shims needed. Everythings included
 

wht87gt

Member
Mar 16, 2003
127
0
17
Oxford, MA
Mar 9, 2007
#3
  • Mar 9, 2007
  • #3
I've got the Trick Flow piece on my car, I did have to shim it out a little with some washers though and the belt still won't line up perfectly. The tensioner does get moved over to the P/S side of the engine with this kit, and it ends up looking kinda funny to me. I had a thread going here a while back about cutting the part of the ALT bracket where the tensioner once sat, because it looks so unfinished now. So I'm actually thinking of getting the FRPP kit and putting the tensioner back where it belongs. In the long run I wish I'd just gone with the FRPP kit in the first place. I guess it's all just trial and error until you find the setup that works for you, but if I had to recommend a kit, I personally wouldn't recommend the Trick Flow kit. Go with the FRPP kit and be done with it.
 

midlife89

Member
Mar 30, 2005
91
0
6
youngstown,oh
Mar 9, 2007
#4
  • Mar 9, 2007
  • #4
1 vote for ford racing

thats what i used n very happy with it,no problems
 
T

Trefty

Member
Aug 13, 2004
117
0
16
Mar 9, 2007
#5
  • Mar 9, 2007
  • #5
I actually removed all my A/C components and installed the FRPP eliminator kit today, was real simple to do, took maybe an hour and a half for everything. Looks real clean now, I'd recommend it to anyone that doesn't need/care about their A/C.
 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
314
281
134
Apache Junction, AZ
Mar 9, 2007
#6
  • Mar 9, 2007
  • #6
Okay, then. Sounds like I'll pony up the extra $9 and go with the FRPP kit, then. I don't wanna have to mod this bugger any more than I absolutely have to just to make it fit, as I'm going to be doing the swap in the friggin' parking lot of Autozone ... which has sort of become my second driveway, since the HOA in my neighborhood is a bunch of Nazis.

So, as long as I buy a handful of some washers while I'm there, I should pretty much be good to go, right? I'm hoping I won't need to goober around with pulling off the P/S pulley to take off the old bracket and install the new one - it just unbolts from the P/S pump assembly without that lil' headache, right?
 

393 notch

New Member
Jan 1, 2007
46
0
0
Mar 9, 2007
#7
  • Mar 9, 2007
  • #7
How about some pics so we all know what these set ups look like. im looking into the same kits but it sure would be easier to dicide knowing what these kits look like installed. come on, show us the pics... p.s. I prefer the kits that keep the power steering pump in its original location.
 

TomCat

New Member
Apr 19, 2005
412
0
0
Utah
Mar 9, 2007
#8
  • Mar 9, 2007
  • #8
I use the March kit... works perfectly. I run it without the PS, but I didn't need to shim it or anything.
Be careful with the water pump bolts! If you're doing in a parking lot, that is... I broke some and it turned into quite an ordeal.
 

myslo50

Member
Jun 12, 2006
247
3
18
ohio
Mar 9, 2007
#9
  • Mar 9, 2007
  • #9
i had the march kit on mine and it looked like crap....go with the ford racing one its alot better and cleaner.
 
T

Trefty

Member
Aug 13, 2004
117
0
16
Mar 10, 2007
#10
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #10
Darkwriter77 said:
So, as long as I buy a handful of some washers while I'm there, I should pretty much be good to go, right? I'm hoping I won't need to goober around with pulling off the P/S pulley to take off the old bracket and install the new one - it just unbolts from the P/S pump assembly without that lil' headache, right?
Click to expand...

I never had to take off the pulley. Just unbolt the condenser and remove, remove the old water pump/A/C/power steering bracket, and then unbolt and pull the power steering pump off. Remove the stud that went through the power steering pump and bolt on the aluminum bracket to the head. Then sandwich the pump between the aluminum bracket and black bracket and you're good to go. There's only one way the brackets can fit so just play around with it until you get it, it's pretty straightforward.
 

Roland69

Sergeant Tangnet
Sep 17, 2005
2,867
2
58
Port Elgin, Ontario
Mar 10, 2007
#11
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #11
I use the stock factory delete kit lol....can't you get brackets from a non ac car and use that same setup
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
Mar 10, 2007
#12
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #12
i'd just keep the A/C on, it diesnt rob u under WOT anyways. and it should help resale value a tad bit.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,206
17,891
224
Massachusetts
Mar 10, 2007
#13
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #13
Go with the FRPP kit.


The idea is to delete components, not replace them with extra pullies.

The FRPP kit is the same as factory non-A/C brackets. SHould bolt on fine. Mine fit like a glove
 
T

Trefty

Member
Aug 13, 2004
117
0
16
Mar 10, 2007
#14
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #14
Roland69 said:
I use the stock factory delete kit lol....can't you get brackets from a non ac car and use that same setup
Click to expand...

That's exactly what the FRPP kit is. If you can find a donor car that has the same bracket for cheaper, then perfect.
 

cobradvm

New Member
Sep 2, 2003
245
1
0
Woodinville, WA
Mar 10, 2007
#15
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #15
393 notch said:
p.s. I prefer the kits that keep the power steering pump in its original location.
Click to expand...


If you go this route, then you will have a pulley in place of the AC pump - looks like ass if you ask me - FRPP kit is the way to go.
 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
314
281
134
Apache Junction, AZ
Mar 10, 2007
#16
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #16
I'm a few years late in bothering to save the A/C system - it was gone years before I ever got my hands on the car. Besides, resale value is a worthless term when it comes to these cars. I've seen rolling chassis Foxes go for more than I was asking for my perfectly-running notch when I was trying to sell it a couple of months ago, and everybody kept trying to lowball me on it by throwing out offers lower than trade-in value. I'm just keeping the thing and driving it until the wheels fall off ... and then, whenever that happens, I'll have a reason to upgrade to a 5-lug setup.

Placing my order for the FRPP kit today. Hopefully it'll be here in time for me to put it on next weekend. And, more importantly, hopefully nothing drastic will happen in the process of changing it out. I sooooo get this bad premonition that a bolt will snap off in the front of the cylinder head or something - it's just the way my luck always goes with these kinds of projects...

Many thanks for the input, everyone!
 
7

71swing

Member
Aug 18, 2006
199
0
17
Omaha,NE
Mar 10, 2007
#17
  • Mar 10, 2007
  • #17
here is a pick for both I ended up going with the ford kit. Like everyone has said it is much cleaner:
 

GSXRMIXXER

New Member
Feb 13, 2006
97
0
0
Mar 20, 2007
#18
  • Mar 20, 2007
  • #18
71swing said:
here is a pick for both I ended up going with the ford kit. Like everyone has said it is much cleaner:
Click to expand...

where are you guys getting that bar that goes from the altenator to the block? all the kits i look at don't include that... what am i missing?
 

Flavadave4

Active Member
Nov 28, 2003
1,044
21
49
Utica, NY
Mar 20, 2007
#19
  • Mar 20, 2007
  • #19
gcwh02 said:
i got the frpp and it fit perfect, no washers or shims needed. Everythings included
Click to expand...


I had the same good fortune with mine.....NO hassle is worth a few extra bucks to me.
 
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