Tried Tuning The Car But Still a Few Problems

[crunchie12268]

Last night I finally put on all the things in my signature started the car up and it ran... but I took it for a drive to get the engine hot and thermostat open and it had less power then before I did the swap.. 'Micheal Yount' told me to set the timing at around 14* and fuel pressure around 38-40 with vac. off.. I found that with the vacuum off it was running 50psi, so I brought it down to 40 and took it out and it was a little bit better... but not as good as it use to be... it just doesn't have the throttle response. I checked the vacuum and it is good at 19-20 at idle.. so I was just wondering what you guys think... I have drove it for about 5-10 minutes, before I had to go to work so I havent touched it since last night... I am about ready to go out and play with it... do you guys think it just needs to be fine tuned or what??? Maybe the timing has to be adjusted to get the car better throttle response?? don't know please help... The car has a stock cam with 1.7 rockers if that helps at all...

 

[jerry beach]

Is it running smooth? No missing, stumbling, popping through the intake? It may very well be timing. You did put the spout back in right? You might try clocking the MAF also. Say its at 12:00, try 9:00. Did you re-check the firing order? The needle on your vac guage is steady, not vibrating or sweeping?

 

[crunchie12268]

The needle on the vac gauge is steady, and there is no missing or popping, it is really smooth. I don't know what clocking the MAF is though. So should I just mess with the timing?

 

[jerry beach]

Clocking the Mass air is simply rotating is to a different position. Think of a clock with hands. When the hour hand it straight up, thats 12'oclock. Loosen the clamps and rotate your MAF to different positions, then test drive. Its an old tuning trick, and its free. You are using a timing light, right? Only change one thing at a time, then test drive. That way you will know what makes difference and what does not.

I tend agree with Mr. Yount. Your car didnt really need the fuel upgrades yet. Also H/C/I work best as a matched "package". I am no expert, but when you tamper with a few things and leave others stock I know it can cause problems. These items are supposed to work together, not against one another. I am not saying your car cant be tuned right at in its present state. I dont really know, but that is why my engine is stock. I am not ready to go through the whole thing.

 

[crunchie12268]

but the intake matched up nicely against the GT40s, I only got this stuff because everything else was stock. When I bought it, it had GT40s and 1.7 rockers, stock induction and meter and tubing. I thought this would help the car out a lot. What if I turned the pressure down so it isn't pushing a lot of fuel until I step up to a bigger cam?

 

[jerry beach]

Turning the FP down wont do anything for very long. The puter will adapt and change injector pulse width according to what it sees from the O2 sensors. It will change the mixture at WOT though. The puter runs off set tables at WOT. Have you tried simply pulling the codes from the puter and see what it is saying?

 

[crunchie12268]

Maybe I need a longer duration cam to take full advantage of this stuff... Is that my problem?? My valves are opening more with the 1.7's but they aren't open for very long? Could that be the problem... and would it hurt to drive my car like this, cuz it is my daily driver and it would take some time to get a cam and the time to do it.