Trouble starting after H/C/I...

[Smeckel]

I finally got my car going after installing most of whats in my sig. Took alot longer than expected due a few stripped holes, valve cover issues and a few other things, but its finally all set. The only thing im having trouble with now is getting the car to consistantly start. It starts right up after sitting over night, but if it has sat for less than an hour since i last drove it, it doesn't want to go. I have to mash the gas down while im turning the key and then it really struggles to idle. I'm wondering what i can do to fix this. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Michael Yount]

Have you pulled the diagnostic codes out of the computer Steve? That's the first place to start. What kind of exhaust manifolds - your sig is silent on header mods. What kind of maf?

 

[Smeckel]

I have shorty's for headers for now...will be going with longtubes when i get the $. Have a pro-m 80mm mass air, which i know may be too big but its a smooth transition to the TB. How do I pull the diagnostic codes?

 

[Michael Yount]

The diagnostic port is behind the driver's side strut tower hooked into the wiring harness. WalMart sells scanners for about $25; take it to AutoZone they'll usually pull them for you for free; pm jrichker on the site and he'll give you a link that tells you how to pull the codes with a test light.

 

[jrichker]

As requested...

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart .

 

[Smeckel]

thanks for the links jrichker. I'll givem a shot tomarrow morning and see what i come up with.