Tubbing/rollcage question

[giddyup306]

I originally had this posted in the race section however I got no replies. Please check it out. Thanks mike.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=470851

 

[TT91]

If your going to be in the 9s, i believe a 10pt cage with pillar bars are mandatory, but double check. what axle tubing are you talking about? There are alot of pre bent no cutting necassary out there, S&W racing makes one, I have a Competition Engineering 8pt in mine, and many other ones on the market are great kits. I dont need t worried about tubing diameter if you buy a kit, which iswhat is recommended. Good luck

 

[giddyup306]

what axle tubing are you talking about?

I want to run wide and tall tires. Not slicks.

 

[TT91]

so what does that have to do with a roll cage?

 

[giddyup306]

so what does that have to do with a roll cage?

So that the tubbing will not interfear with the cage.

 

[giddyup306]

ttt

 

[ECU5.0]

i dont think mike would have an problem with his cage if he tubbed the rear. here is a pic of his cage from behind. griggs makes a kit to tub the rear of our cars for like 360 bucks. it allows you to run up to 12 inch wide tires.
http://www.griggsracing.com/ART/mini_tub.jpg

 

[TT91]

tubbing a car shouldnt interfere with a cage as long as it properly planned for..thanks for hosting the pic.

 

[hllon4whls]

You have several streetable options for a big tire mustang. The below links have some good info. This is a good way to go if you already have torque box reinforcements and good control arms.
http://autoweldchassis.com/minitub.ivnu
http://www.flemworld.com/Hto/mtub.html

I cannot direct link to what I want, but these people make a battle cruiser 4 link that you can put on a stang. You use a 3x2 crossmember between the frame then weld everything together. Nice kit. About the same price as doing control arms and fixing torque boxes.

Then there is a full back half kit where you cut the rear frame out completely and weld in a new subframe.
http://www.cachassisworks.com/
Most of the time the roll cage does not interfere with any minitubbing. The back bars can be moved around quite a bit and still be legal. You need to plan everthing out when you install it. Personally I like a 10 point, so I recommend you go with that. Chrome moly is half the weight and twice the price. Moly must be tig welded to be legal.

You dont absolutely have to, but you should consider narrowing the rear. That means axles. I would also suggest 9 inch ends on the 8.8 to get rid of the C-Clips. If you put 9 inch ends on the 8.8 you have about a dozen brake kit choices.

PM me I have an approximate cost list if you want it.

 

[Rick 91GT]

First, are you ever planning to run in any type of class, the mini tubs many effect what class you can run, even at local events. Look at the future you never know what it may bring...

Second, if you plan out the chassis the cage design will never interfere with the mini or full tubs. The exact length of the axle will depend on the rear, rim, tire etc... I also suggest 9" bearing ends, and a good aftermarket disc set-up.

The links that Hllon4whls are good

Chromemoly is not quite half the weight, but it is lighter and allows you to use thinner tubing (both in diameter and thickness). If you ever plan to go 8.50 you'll need to do a 25.5 chassis, SFI approved.