Tubular K Member and A arms for a Street Car???

dhrusk1

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Apr 17, 2002
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chicago
I am installing long tubes and will be dropping my stock k member to make the install easier. I was thinking about getting a new K member/a arm/coilover kit. I was looking at the D&D kit. I also heard PA racing makes a good kit.

Does anyone use this type of setup on their daily driver or street car?

Does handleing improve or does the kit just drop weight off of the front end (note: I already have steeda lowering springs)?

Any input/advise is appreciated.
 
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The idea behind a tubular K-member is to lighten the weight of the front end. It can improve handling, namely by lightening the weight up on the front end and giving more "flex" to the front.

There are many people who run tubular K-members on the street. Bill Putnam, KenB, Automatic Weapon, and various other racers use K-members on their cars with no problems. I don't know anyone personally who is using the D&D setup, but I have heard decent results with PA Racing. Some other big known companies that make K-member units for the Mustangs are QA1, Kenny Brown, and UPR products. Might want to do a search on all the Mustang boards, such as the Corral, Modular Depot, TCH Racing, and here just to see what everyone is running and what their opinions are.
 
i have heard mixed results on the UPR K member... D&D is not thaat great of a coilover setup.... however a good number of people use a new K on the street... i will at some point be one of them... once my rear end is finished. i'll either be going Maximum Motorsports or Kenny Brown.

Torinalthq
 
I'm running a PA Racing Tubular K-member with stock a-arms and Eibach Pro-Kit spings on my Daily Driver. Handles just as good as the stock K.
I get a little more engine vibration from the stiffness of the PA K.
Overall I think its a good product.
Here's a link on how I did the install
http://stangfreak.com/content/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=52&Itemid=31

PA%20Vs%20Factory%20K-memeber.jpg
 

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Rocketman said:
I'm running a PA Racing Tubular K-member with stock a-arms and Eibach Pro-Kit spings on my Daily Driver. Handles just as good as the stock K.
I get a little more engine vibration from the stiffness of the PA K.
Overall I think its a good product.
Here's a link on how I did the install
http://stangfreak.com/content/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=52&Itemid=31

PA%20Vs%20Factory%20K-memeber.jpg
You were able to reuse your a arms and springs? Cool glad PA racing is just up the road from me. :D
 

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A lot of people say that in the event of a crash the non-factory stuff will not protect you as well. If you are not planning on having a front end collision you should be oh-tay :nice:
 
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Kilgore Trout said:
A lot of people say that in the event of a crash the non-factory stuff will not protect you as well. If you are not planning on having a front end collision you should be oh-tay :nice:

Either way you look at it the front (stock setup) control arms will cut thru in a severe front end colision. Even though the front end is highly approved in crash tests and being lived thru one myself I wouldn't trade my K-member for one that is just hyped over having light weight. Maximum Motorsports has nice K member that's not all tubular and is pretty strengthend, but you'd need a coilover conversion and new A arms.
 
I want to put in a tubular K member also. My biggest worry is that it may not be as strong as the stocker in the event of a front end crash. Then again, what would the insurance company do/claim once this mod has been made and the car is in a collision.

If anyone has any info about strength vs. stocker, please post up.

Thanks
 
mrvax said:
I want to put in a tubular K member also. My biggest worry is that it may not be as strong as the stocker in the event of a front end crash. Then again, what would the insurance company do/claim once this mod has been made and the car is in a collision.

If anyone has any info about strength vs. stocker, please post up.

Thanks

like i said in my last post, if i was ever in an accident again i would want it to be with the stock K member, It has full stars in tests (especially the 98). it was built for safty in hand as were aftermkt ones are built for lightweight and stability in cornering. I'm still looking into the MM one, until I get some more info i'll post up
 
Anyone know if CC plates are a must with new k member / a arms / coilovers?

Ebay has several kits, UPR, QA1, D&D, Granatelli, all for right around 600 shipped and they all include kmember, a arms, and coilovers. The guy at D&D told me that their k member was designed specifically to fit around long tubes.

I want to get a kit, but I just want to be sure that it is safe, it will handle well on the street, and that I won't have problems getting a proper front end alignment.
 
Dark Knight GT, how happy are you with your mac longtubes and prochamber? Did you do the install yourself? Some have complained about the steering column hitting the headers, did you encounter this problem?
 
dhrusk1 said:
Anyone know if CC plates are a must with new k member / a arms / coilovers?

Ebay has several kits, UPR, QA1, D&D, Granatelli, all for right around 600 shipped and they all include kmember, a arms, and coilovers. The guy at D&D told me that their k member was designed specifically to fit around long tubes.

I'm sure every tubualar setup is designed to clear LT's, accessing the starter is another point for one.

dhrusk1 said:
I want to get a kit, but I just want to be sure that it is safe, it will handle well on the street, and that I won't have problems getting a proper front end alignment.

Being safe is staying with the STOCK K member. It is the only one designed to crumble correctly in a crash, remember it is made that way from the factory.
 
tomustang said:
Being safe is staying with the STOCK K member. It is the only one designed to crumble correctly in a crash, remember it is made that way from the factory.

:mad: That's too bad. Not only does the tubular K knock 60 lbs. off the car, the important front to rear weight ratio would be greatly improved. Traction would improve this way.
 
mrvax said:
:mad: That's too bad. Not only does the tubular K knock 60 lbs. off the car, the important front to rear weight ratio would be greatly improved. Traction would improve this way.

I don't doubt it one bit, my choice would be the aftermkt K member setup with an IRS it would balance the weight nicely, but i found out how tuff the stock k member can do under pressure :hail2:
 
dhrusk1 said:
Dark Knight GT, how happy are you with your mac longtubes and prochamber? Did you do the install yourself? Some have complained about the steering column hitting the headers, did you encounter this problem?
The only complaint I have is the issue of rust development. The fitting issues are fine. No problems there. Overall, I'm happy with them. Good sound and good power for the money. Just I dislike the rust lol.
 
i think i'm ordering PA racing one with stock pearch and for stock A arm.
I see the point on when you getting in accident. But my car is not dail driver, and when i do drive, its usually less then 10 miles, and having been able to have more room downthere, and all handling benefit, and small chance of car getting crushed even more is hardly the point worth arguing. But thats just me. you people should concern about regidity of car for just in case
 
dhrusk1 said:
Did you get the ceramic coated??
No, I didn't get mine ceramic coated. That wasn't an option when I put mine on. They've been on for three years now. When I swap out my stock K-member for an aftermarket one, I'm going to remove the headers, derust them, coat them with some engine paint, and probably wrap them up in exhuast wrap before the re-install. The only real part that is rusting is the part that is under the car. The rest up in the engine bay is fine.
 
About the whole "accidnet" and crashing thing.....you have to remember that if you buy a K-member that is made of Chromoly, it will definately do better in an accident than a K-member made of mild steel. I believe Bill Putnam once drove his front end into a big pot hole and damaged some front end components on his car, but his chromoly k-member from UPR products survived with barely a scratch.