I changed to a UPR K Member the weight is about 10 kilos and the Original is 25 kilos .... also Tubular A arms and coilovers.. but dont remember how much less weight...so just the K Mamber saved 33 lbs of weight...
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The OP Car on a set of Et street s/s or et street R at that power will be night and day traction wiseI too have had the 555r's.
They were ok, but I found that the bfg g force drag radials were superior.
Anything with a 300 treadwear probably isn't going to be a really good tire for traction.
I've always looked for 000. I'm also willing to burn up a set of tires every 2000 miles (although at the rate I drive the car, that's years)
With that said, when it comes time for tires again, i'll probably be between a rock and a hard place, there isn't a 275 35 18 bfg g force drag radial anymore. All the good tires are at least in an inch taller. I would probably make an attempt to run the NT05R
30-50lbs of weight equates to maybe .05 in the quarter mile.
I could go on a diet and save 30lbs.
Get better tires, you may find that you don't really need any other parts.
Reference or more detail, please?Weight helps, suspension parts help, tires help, but none of it works if you don't have the suspension plotted correctly. I went through the parts buying and swapping but never got it to work until I plotted the suspension and made it work.
On plotting?Reference or more detail, please?
Thank you. Haven't heard that term before.On plotting?
I bought a baseline suspension relocated upper, j&m perch adjustable lowers, stock gt springs. Got in touch with Kevin slaby (owner of baseline) and followed his advice and directions on his website on plotting the rear end. Night and day difference at the track, dropped. 25 off the 60ft.
Only about the Nitto 555s. I don't even think he has the Drag Radial version. I actually still own Cobra R wheels with Nittos on them. So, I don't hate them. I bought them for every day driving around town on the black car. They last a lot longer than the other DRs (10-12k), they're good in the rain, and you can actually take them around a curve in the road without feeling wobbly. They are only marginally better than normal summers for traction and aren't in the same league 'real' drag radials, to me. My experience is with MTs, BFGs, & Nittos only. Unless this G2 has better traction than the old drag radials, which is doubtful but possible, it's the simplest adjustment he can make with the most potential improvement. A set of springs/shocks and 90/10s up front with a disconnected sway bar wouldn't hurt, either.@FastDriver what do you actually disagree with ?
Is it the comment of air pressure....?
...comment of the Nitto 555 ?
....of roasting a street tire for traction ?
Or...having traction issues with the supercharged car ? ( at some point he will spin a tire....or that car isn't right. Lol ) Doesn't mean the car is undrivable ....just that it will smoke tires at will....no matter what tire is under it on the street.
What k members come with grease fittings?Since, I'm responding, the best thing about the UPR K-member is the clearance under and around the engine. The weight benefit has become a nice secondary reason I like it. I'm not sure any k-members are lighter. UPR was really affordable, but they come with 1 major drawback if you're going to own the car for a long time: no grease fittings. Some have modified them. I won't buy from UPR again based on some of the business practices I've heard about from back in the day, but their stuff works just fine.
I daily drive a hatch with full moly upr setup up front and have no complaints. It's probably a little bit of personal preference or how you have it setup maybe?IMO, anyone should think long and hard about running a drag suspension on the street. Worst setup I've ever tried.
Pretty much ruins everything about driving the car.
My work van handled better.
I'm more talking about drag springs. Makes the front way too soft. I tried a set of 4cyl springs and a set of moroso tricks (I know, what kind of idiot tries twice). 70/30 shocks (I think, it's been a long long time). I'm pretty sure I had my qa1 10 way rear shocks, but that I don't remember.I daily drive a hatch with full moly upr setup up front and have no complaints. It's probably a little bit of personal preference or how you have it setup maybe?
I'm more talking about drag springs. Makes the front way too soft. I tried a set of 4cyl springs and a set of moroso tricks (I know, what kind of idiot tries twice). 70/30 shocks (I think, it's been a long long time). I'm pretty sure I had my qa1 10 way rear shocks, but that I don't remember.
I was used to lowering springs and a decent handling car.
The drag springs made the car feel like a 60s or 70's Cadillac or Lincoln.
I also live in NJ, we have jughandles here on any and pretty much all highways, the car felt awful in them (we have to go through them often). Car was so loose and light in the nose. I could only imagine trying to get the car back under control in a panic situation, without the sway bar i'd call it suicidal.
I just feel like a drag suspension is good for one thing and one thing only, going straight and unfortunately, roads aren't just straight.
I don't feel like you should have to ruin how a car handles to get traction.
My car does pretty well now for traction and that's on pretty much and entire MM suspension, less the torque arm, with 275lb springs up front and h&r race springs out back.
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