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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Those nitro 555rs are marginal at best . The problem is you cannot have a tire that lasts and a tire that works . There has to be a compromise in either direction .

On the street it’s going to be a spin fest . Better tire and suspension will help but it isn’t going to make it go away . Double adjustable arms . Team z drag spring out back . Use the arms to set the pinion angle and square the rear up . Ditch the quad shocks.

Strange 10 way single adjustable front and rear shocks . They can be tight on the street and not have that boat feel and also he loosened up to move some weight around.

Forget the k member for now . Do the coil overs with a comprimised spring between what you’d use on a drag car and something for a street car . They gave me A 225 for my car we’ll see how I like it .

I’ve been 10.80s with full weight 17s up front with my sway bars in and front lowering springs , stock k member , the shocks mentioned , and team z rear drag springs . At 3408 . And it would’ve went faster if it didn’t weigh so much with the stereo and me in it .
 
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2000xp8

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Aug 8, 2003
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I too have had the 555r's.
They were ok, but I found that the bfg g force drag radials were superior.

Anything with a 300 treadwear probably isn't going to be a really good tire for traction.
I've always looked for 000. I'm also willing to burn up a set of tires every 2000 miles (although at the rate I drive the car, that's years)

With that said, when it comes time for tires again, i'll probably be between a rock and a hard place, there isn't a 275 35 18 bfg g force drag radial anymore. All the good tires are at least in an inch taller. I would probably make an attempt to run the NT05R

30-50lbs of weight equates to maybe .05 in the quarter mile.
I could go on a diet and save 30lbs.

Get better tires, you may find that you don't really need any other parts.
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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I too have had the 555r's.
They were ok, but I found that the bfg g force drag radials were superior.

Anything with a 300 treadwear probably isn't going to be a really good tire for traction.
I've always looked for 000. I'm also willing to burn up a set of tires every 2000 miles (although at the rate I drive the car, that's years)

With that said, when it comes time for tires again, i'll probably be between a rock and a hard place, there isn't a 275 35 18 bfg g force drag radial anymore. All the good tires are at least in an inch taller. I would probably make an attempt to run the NT05R

30-50lbs of weight equates to maybe .05 in the quarter mile.
I could go on a diet and save 30lbs.

Get better tires, you may find that you don't really need any other parts.
The OP Car on a set of Et street s/s or et street R at that power will be night and day traction wise
 

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog
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When i did the upper and lower control arms in the convertible, we also moved the batteries into the trunk of the car. We squared the rear and set the pinion angle and pops helped me get the suspension setup best we could.
night and day difference, it will at least get traction in 3rd now.. I never shift the car hard so the power from the blower would just destroy the tires on a roll.

once these things finally die, I plan to run a DR type tire on the car... I give up on these summer tires.
 

FastDriver

My dad had a bra
SN Certified Technician
Sep 5, 2001
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Weight helps, suspension parts help, tires help, but none of it works if you don't have the suspension plotted correctly. I went through the parts buying and swapping but never got it to work until I plotted the suspension and made it work.

Joe
Reference or more detail, please?
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
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Apr 26, 2010
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Reference or more detail, please?
On plotting?

I bought a baseline suspension relocated upper, j&m perch adjustable lowers, stock gt springs. Got in touch with Kevin slaby (owner of baseline) and followed his advice and directions on his website on plotting the rear end. Night and day difference at the track, dropped. 25 off the 60ft.

Joe
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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@FastDriver what do you actually disagree with ?

Is it the comment of air pressure....?

...comment of the Nitto 555 ?

....of roasting a street tire for traction ?

Or...having traction issues with the supercharged car ? ( at some point he will spin a tire....or that car isn't right. Lol ) Doesn't mean the car is undrivable ....just that it will smoke tires at will....no matter what tire is under it on the street.
 

FastDriver

My dad had a bra
SN Certified Technician
Sep 5, 2001
4,502
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214
Seaside, CA
On plotting?

I bought a baseline suspension relocated upper, j&m perch adjustable lowers, stock gt springs. Got in touch with Kevin slaby (owner of baseline) and followed his advice and directions on his website on plotting the rear end. Night and day difference at the track, dropped. 25 off the 60ft.

Joe
Thank you. Haven't heard that term before.

@FastDriver what do you actually disagree with ?

Is it the comment of air pressure....?

...comment of the Nitto 555 ?

....of roasting a street tire for traction ?

Or...having traction issues with the supercharged car ? ( at some point he will spin a tire....or that car isn't right. Lol ) Doesn't mean the car is undrivable ....just that it will smoke tires at will....no matter what tire is under it on the street.
Only about the Nitto 555s. I don't even think he has the Drag Radial version. I actually still own Cobra R wheels with Nittos on them. So, I don't hate them. I bought them for every day driving around town on the black car. They last a lot longer than the other DRs (10-12k), they're good in the rain, and you can actually take them around a curve in the road without feeling wobbly. They are only marginally better than normal summers for traction and aren't in the same league 'real' drag radials, to me. My experience is with MTs, BFGs, & Nittos only. Unless this G2 has better traction than the old drag radials, which is doubtful but possible, it's the simplest adjustment he can make with the most potential improvement. A set of springs/shocks and 90/10s up front with a disconnected sway bar wouldn't hurt, either.

Since, I'm responding, the best thing about the UPR K-member is the clearance under and around the engine. The weight benefit has become a nice secondary reason I like it. I'm not sure any k-members are lighter. UPR was really affordable, but they come with 1 major drawback if you're going to own the car for a long time: no grease fittings. Some have modified them. I won't buy from UPR again based on some of the business practices I've heard about from back in the day, but their stuff works just fine.
 
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Boostedpimp

10 Year Member
May 8, 2003
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Since, I'm responding, the best thing about the UPR K-member is the clearance under and around the engine. The weight benefit has become a nice secondary reason I like it. I'm not sure any k-members are lighter. UPR was really affordable, but they come with 1 major drawback if you're going to own the car for a long time: no grease fittings. Some have modified them. I won't buy from UPR again based on some of the business practices I've heard about from back in the day, but their stuff works just fine.
What k members come with grease fittings?
 

FastDriver

My dad had a bra
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Yeah, you're right. A-arms,then. K-member & A-arms were all a package in both the MM and UPR setups on my cars. Neither has grease fittings. I don't know if others do, but I think they should. I'm going to own these cars a very long time, and I can hear the bushings when I push on the UPR front suspension.
 

Boostedpimp

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lol I was going to rag on you about the grease fittings on a kmember comment but figured I would ask first knowing I've never heard of such a thing :)
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
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IMO, anyone should think long and hard about running a drag suspension on the street. Worst setup I've ever tried.
Pretty much ruins everything about driving the car.
My work van handled better.
 

Boostedpimp

10 Year Member
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IMO, anyone should think long and hard about running a drag suspension on the street. Worst setup I've ever tried.
Pretty much ruins everything about driving the car.
My work van handled better.
I daily drive a hatch with full moly upr setup up front and have no complaints. It's probably a little bit of personal preference or how you have it setup maybe?
 

FastDriver

My dad had a bra
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Yeah, totally personal preference. Can't take turns hard in the black car. It's a little floaty up front. The rear is absolutely punishing over bumps, but I don't unlink the ARB, even though I should.
 

2000xp8

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I daily drive a hatch with full moly upr setup up front and have no complaints. It's probably a little bit of personal preference or how you have it setup maybe?
I'm more talking about drag springs. Makes the front way too soft. I tried a set of 4cyl springs and a set of moroso tricks (I know, what kind of idiot tries twice). 70/30 shocks (I think, it's been a long long time). I'm pretty sure I had my qa1 10 way rear shocks, but that I don't remember.
I was used to lowering springs and a decent handling car.
The drag springs made the car feel like a 60s or 70's Cadillac or Lincoln.
I also live in NJ, we have jughandles here on any and pretty much all highways, the car felt awful in them (we have to go through them often). Car was so loose and light in the nose. I could only imagine trying to get the car back under control in a panic situation, without the sway bar i'd call it suicidal.
I just feel like a drag suspension is good for one thing and one thing only, going straight and unfortunately, roads aren't just straight.

I don't feel like you should have to ruin how a car handles to get traction.

My car does pretty well now for traction and that's on pretty much and entire MM suspension, less the torque arm, with 275lb springs up front and h&r race springs out back.
 
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Boostedpimp

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I'm more talking about drag springs. Makes the front way too soft. I tried a set of 4cyl springs and a set of moroso tricks (I know, what kind of idiot tries twice). 70/30 shocks (I think, it's been a long long time). I'm pretty sure I had my qa1 10 way rear shocks, but that I don't remember.
I was used to lowering springs and a decent handling car.
The drag springs made the car feel like a 60s or 70's Cadillac or Lincoln.
I also live in NJ, we have jughandles here on any and pretty much all highways, the car felt awful in them (we have to go through them often). Car was so loose and light in the nose. I could only imagine trying to get the car back under control in a panic situation, without the sway bar i'd call it suicidal.
I just feel like a drag suspension is good for one thing and one thing only, going straight and unfortunately, roads aren't just straight.

I don't feel like you should have to ruin how a car handles to get traction.

My car does pretty well now for traction and that's on pretty much and entire MM suspension, less the torque arm, with 275lb springs up front and h&r race springs out back.

lol we've all been there man. I used to daily a 91 gt for years with eibach prolaunch springs, lakewoods, no front swaybar with weld skinnies and mt dr's and it was a sobering experience once in a while lol but the car hooked good :) The car I refer to now has full tub suspension and 14" 175 springs with 245/40/17 and 275 radials and handles great for a daily driver. Looking back I had balls haha not so much now when it comes to traffic and road conditions in NJ I know I live about 15 minutes from Atco Raceway