Tune First?or Wait

doobismaximus · Aug 26, 2014

What are some upgrades that are the best bang for my buck? I was thinking 3.55 gears and a decent cam. Thats about the range of my budget for now.
I have done little odds and ends. All myself, cant afford a mechanic! But am also considering a tune to see where she stands now. I always contemplate before doing anything, so please fill me in if you got time

Noobz347 · Aug 26, 2014

A tune would gain you nothing at this point. Windsors are not like the new motors where they are de-tuned at the factory to meet mileage and emissions standards.

Gears
Heads
Cam
Intake
Exhaust
Blower

Supporting mods (TB, fuel injectors, MAF, pump, etc).

Limiting factors for SBF are in the hardware.

On a budget, I would chose an upgrade that I could build on later. Jump right to the blower if you want instant gratification. Get heads if you want a good mod that will increase performance and continue to improve as other mods are added. If you buy a blower, buy one for the motor that you want and not the one that you have.

madspeed · Aug 27, 2014

so he should slap on an xb105?

ronstang94 · Aug 27, 2014

If you do rearend gears, do 3.73s. Do a little research and I believe that you will find out that most people think 3.55s just aren't enough.

Cold air intake and full exhaust if you haven't done that yet.

If you do a cam I would think the car would benefit from a tune, but until you do something like heads, cam, or forced induction a tune is pointless.

doobismaximus · Aug 28, 2014

Thanks for feedback everyone. Wish i could go straight to a blower. But ill have to start of with some more bolt ons. Did flowmasters, and cai. Spent alot of $ on my new top.
If i do heads, should i do aluminum. If so, 58cc or 64cc. Does it make a difference.

90lxwhite · Aug 29, 2014

If I was to do gears again I think I'd go w 3.55 vs 3.73 that I went with. First gear is way to short and when on the highway it feels like it needs a 6th. The best way I can sum up the whole "gears being the best bang for the buck" as people often claim is well, it sorta is.. The tach sure moves faster but w the same horsepower the car doesn't all that much. With a cam and spring upgrade on stock heads I made a whopping 202 rear horse. (had to get a tune, the comp didnt like the cam)Then I had the pre-cats removed and had the stock lower intake ported and made 223 and it was still on the slow side. I then sold my 90 model and was trying to decide between a blower or a new topend. I opted for the blower thinking/hoping it would be more "bang for buck" vs the topend. If I was to go the heads route I'd have had to buy new injectors, etc etc and still maybe not make as much power as w the vortech. In sept I'll see if I made the right choice. As for which heads i don't have any 1st hand experience w em but trick flow seems to get the most for your $ since they're not much more than alum gt40. The smaller cc the chambers the higher compression I believe.

90lxwhite · Aug 29, 2014

Ps: gears and "bang for buck."
While the gears are on the cheaper side of things, if memory serves it was like $500 labor to have em installed. Might have been more, it's been awhile but at any rate it wasn't cheap.

Dacon · Aug 29, 2014

90lxwhite said:
Ps: gears and "bang for buck."
While the gears are on the cheaper side of things, if memory serves it was like $500 labor to have em installed. Might have been more, it's been awhile but at any rate it wasn't cheap.

+1

Local shop wants $850-900 for parts/labour including full rear rebuilt kit, freshening up the posi, gears, oil etc...

ronstang94 · Aug 29, 2014

If you buy a complete kit for $250 and do the work yourself on the weekend instead of sitting on the couch, thats a lot of bang for the buck.... Even better, do what I did. Find some good gears on craigslist, and get some oil and bearings from the parts store, and for around $150 all together, the car will feel like a completely different animal!

Noobz347 · Aug 29, 2014

ronstang94 said:
If you buy a complete kit for $250 and do the work yourself on the weekend instead of sitting on the couch, thats a lot of bang for the buck.... Even better, do what I did. Find some good gears on craigslist, and get some oil and bearings from the parts store, and for around $150 all together, the car will feel like a completely different animal!

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that you've probably never installed gears.

If I'm wrong and you have, then you've left off a couple of things.

For anyone else passing by this thread... This will give you some idea of what's involved:

doobismaximus · Aug 29, 2014

Damn... That video is alot more in depth than i expected. Dont think ill try that myself. I know me, ill half ass something. Some things ill leave to the pros... On another note was watching a video on the smog pump bypass. Looks easy enough, is that worth the trouble? Anoyone got a mishumoto radiator? American muscle talks it up... Worth it?

ronstang94 · Aug 29, 2014

Thanks for the insult Noobz!

I installed the gears on my car myself. I do all of the work on my vehicles myself.

Once when I was a younger and and less experienced man, I had to take my car to a shop a couple of times because I was stumped and just could not find the problem. After these shops struggled to find the problems themselves and then charged me an arm and a leg for their wasted time, I decided that I would never take any of my vehicles to a shop again.

I did not intend my general statement about replacing gears to be considered a "how to", so yes there were some things that I did not mention. SO... Let me revise my previous post.. As with almost any work on a car, you will need some instructions and some tools... Also, for this job you will need some specialty tools (most of which can be rented from an auto parts store)... You will need to have the new pinion bearing pressed on. You don't need to replace every bearing, race, or seal that you come across, just replace it if it's bad. Yes, it is a good idea to replace it if you have it apart, but that can also get expensive and we are talking about bang for the buck here and not talking about how much money we can throw at a project.

doobismaximus · Aug 29, 2014

I try to do all my work too for the exact same reason. I bought a dvd and upholstery gun and did my own top. Wasnt paying this 80 year old lady 1700$.
My car was an everyday driver, still want it to be. So ill probably go with the 3.55 set.

90lxwhite · Aug 29, 2014

Noobz347 said:
I'm going to go out on a limb and say that you've probably never installed gears.

If I'm wrong and you have, then you've left off a couple of things.

For anyone else passing by this thread... This will give you some idea of what's involved:

There are some stuff they just shouldn't make videos for. If one is watching a video for gears they prob shouldn't be messin w em.

Noobz347 · Aug 29, 2014

90lxwhite said:
There are some stuff they just shouldn't make videos for. If one is watching a video for gears they prob shouldn't be messin w em.

This topic has surfaced a few times in the last couple of days. If nothing else, this is a video that is good for letting folks know what they are in for.

It a bit more involved than just jack stands in the driveway.

doobismaximus · Aug 29, 2014

Thats funny, you just described me to a T. Im just a weekend warrior, cant even get my photo rightside up... Give me a hammer and nails, im your guy

90lxwhite · Aug 29, 2014

doobismaximus said:
What are some upgrades that are the best bang for my buck? I was thinking 3.55 gears and a decent cam. Thats about the range of my budget for now.
I have done little odds and ends. All myself, cant afford a mechanic! But am also considering a tune to see where she stands now. I always contemplate before doing anything, so please fill me in if you got time

I realize you've gotten mostly negative and not many positive feedback. Out of my lightly modded car I think the best bang for buck was sending the lower intake to Tom Moss for porting. It was around $200 and it got me about 20 horse.

90lxwhite · Aug 30, 2014

OP sorry for the jacking but since we're in the realm of bang for buck I'd like to ask: @Noobz347 Would replacing the stock rear lower control arms with steeda regular ole non adjustable pair that run $200 and leaving the uppers alone make a "nite and day" difference or would it just be kinda meh?
http://www.steeda.com/1994-1998-mustang-parts/#/product/379

skiwesser11 · Aug 30, 2014

90lxwhite said:
OP sorry for the jacking but since we're in the realm of bang for buck I'd like to ask: @Noobz347 Would replacing the stock rear lower control arms with steeda regular ole non adjustable pair that run $200 and leaving the uppers alone make a "nite and day" difference or would it just be kinda meh?
http://www.lethalperformance.com/st...mustang.html?gclid=CJTqpoWbusACFahj7AodH2cAVQ

+1^^^
I have a fox body but I've been wondering if it'd be worth swapping lowers only also. I already have poly bushings in lowers and uppers (rubber in rear housing though).
My car is daily driver that will go to 1/8th mi tracks a few times a year.

Also, I was wondering about ride quality with 70/30 struts and 50/50 drag shocks versus good stock type replacements on street?? I need some new ones of some type. I also still have stock springs up front and 4cyl springs in rear (heard foxes launch better with them).

Thanks

Noobz347 · Aug 30, 2014

90lxwhite said:
OP sorry for the jacking but since we're in the realm of bang for buck I'd like to ask: @Noobz347 Would replacing the stock rear lower control arms with steeda regular ole non adjustable pair that run $200 and leaving the uppers alone make a "nite and day" difference or would it just be kinda meh?
http://www.steeda.com/1994-1998-mustang-parts/#/product/379

The link you posted brought up an index page for me versus a specific item. I'm all about replacing the stock lower control arms with something a lot more rigid. For the street and on a budget, I prefer to get the best lowers I can afford and replacing the uppers with the FMS pieces and rubber bushings.

skiwesser11 said:
+1^^^
I have a fox body but I've been wondering if it'd be worth swapping lowers only also. I already have poly bushings in lowers and uppers (rubber in rear housing though).
My car is daily driver that will go to 1/8th mi tracks a few times a year.

Also, I was wondering about ride quality with 70/30 struts and 50/50 drag shocks versus good stock type replacements on street?? I need some new ones of some type. I also still have stock springs up front and 4cyl springs in rear (heard foxes launch better with them).

Thanks

By all means, swap the lower control arms. Get control arms that are designed for your purpose (drag or street). I don't think that your 70/30 and 50/50 shocks are a good selection for a DD. Something like the Tokico blues or (for more money and an even harsher ride) Bilsteins. If ride quality is most important, then maybe some Monroe OEM style replacements.

There are some adjustables out there that do a pretty good job in both worlds. I'll let someone else recommend those shocks because I've never run a set and could not tell you which are better than the others for someone who likes to hit the track on the weekends.

While we're on this topic though.... Battle Boxes! Always a good idea as you're adding power and rear end rigidity. Another fairly inexpensive and much needed mod are full length sub-frame connectors.

There's no real "nut shell" answer to all of this but you CAN plan ahead a little bit and start knocking out the supporting suspension mods while you plan out your rear end solution.

@Mustang5L5 and @MFE92 both have posted info that has helped me. MFE does road course racing while I think 5L5 and concentrated more on the streetable side of things. They may also be able to shed some more light on shock choices. 5L5 is definitely the guy to ask about brake upgrades and what is needed to accomplish X.

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