Tune First?or Wait

Noobz347 · Aug 30, 2014

ronstang94 said:
Thanks for the insult Noobz!

I installed the gears on my car myself. I do all of the work on my vehicles myself.

Once when I was a younger and and less experienced man, I had to take my car to a shop a couple of times because I was stumped and just could not find the problem. After these shops struggled to find the problems themselves and then charged me an arm and a leg for their wasted time, I decided that I would never take any of my vehicles to a shop again.

I did not intend my general statement about replacing gears to be considered a "how to", so yes there were some things that I did not mention. SO... Let me revise my previous post.. As with almost any work on a car, you will need some instructions and some tools... Also, for this job you will need some specialty tools (most of which can be rented from an auto parts store)... You will need to have the new pinion bearing pressed on. You don't need to replace every bearing, race, or seal that you come across, just replace it if it's bad. Yes, it is a good idea to replace it if you have it apart, but that can also get expensive and we are talking about bang for the buck here and not talking about how much money we can throw at a project.

Oh and this is not meant as an insult it's meant as a challenge.

It's for anyone who would like to create a step by step shade-tree version of doing this task at home.

Required tools
List of tasks that need to be completed by a shop
List of all necessary parts: One for rebuilding the housing and one for housings that have low-ish miles
LOTS OF PICTURES

ronstang94... Don't take it personal. You'll find that I'm all over the forum and sometimes make quick posts to illustrate a point without fully explaining that point. Many people come to this site looking for answers. I didn't want anyone to get the impression that gears was a quick-fix kind of thing like swapping an intake or adding a CAI. I would guess that even a quarter of professional shops, screw this procedure up from time to time.

90lxwhite · Aug 30, 2014

http://www.steeda.com/1994-1998-mustang-parts/#/product/379

90lxwhite · Aug 30, 2014

http://www.steeda.com/1994-1998-mustang-parts/#/product/379. So um just doing lowers won't make much of a difference on a 270--350 hp street car at keeping the azz from wagging off the line under hard acceleration?

skiwesser11 · Aug 30, 2014

90lxwhite said:
http://www.steeda.com/1994-1998-mustang-parts/#/product/379. So um just doing lowers won't make much of a difference on a 270--350 hp street car at keeping the azz from wagging off the line under hard acceleration?

So are you saying not worth changing lowers only? Or asking?
Are the three piece bushings on the steedas worth diff in $ ?

90lxwhite · Aug 30, 2014

skiwesser11 said:
So are you saying not worth changing lowers only? Or asking?
Are the three piece bushings on the steedas worth diff in $ ?

I'm asking

skiwesser11 · Aug 30, 2014

90lxwhite said:
I'm asking

Ok, sorry I was confused. That's exactly what I would like to know?

If I do use a stock type Monroe or equivalent stock type shock/strut for ride quality, will they they (lowers only) make a difference in ET's at the track with DR's?

Would the 70/30 and 50/50 combo be unbearably harsh on the street? Worth difference in ET's?
What would difference in ET's between stock type shocks and struts and 70/30-50/50 set up be on say 400hp car (total hp with spray)?

How much consideration should I put into Springs?

I have subframes welded in as well as torque boxes welded up.

Thank U guys

90lxwhite · Aug 30, 2014

skiwesser11 said:
Ok, sorry I was confused. That's exactly what I would like to know?

If I do use a stock type Monroe or equivalent stock type shock/strut for ride quality, will they they (lowers only) make a difference in ET's at the track with DR's?

Would the 70/30 and 50/50 combo be unbearably harsh on the street? Worth difference in ET's?
What would difference in ET's between stock type shocks and struts and 70/30-50/50 set up be on say 400hp car (total hp with spray)?

How much consideration should I put into Springs?

I have subframes welded in as well as torque boxes welded up.

Thank U guys

Looks like the pros left us in the dust but I'll tell ya what I have goin on. I'm not making a drag car I'm doing a "resto-mod" weekend steet car kinda thing. What I'm trying accomplish is a decent cruiser that won't beat you up but that is still a real "sports car" unlike the wimpy excuse ford produced. All of this on a fairly modest budget mind you.(tuff task) Suspension/chassis wise thus far consists of: new inner/outter tierods, moog "problem solver" ball joints, kyb shocks/struts, ford racing progressive "b" springs, and subframe connectors. I'm pretty pleased with it, it handles much better than it did even when it was new(been in fam since '95) in all aspects of handling. Tight and responsive and stiffer than it was but it won't really beat you up.
So now it's time to address the rear and get rid of the tail wagging during hard launches. What I'm wondering is would changing the lowers out for an aftermarket pair cure me of this and would they affect cornering in a negative, positive, or neutral way?

90lxwhite · Aug 30, 2014

@revhead347 Yo Kurt, could you read the last few post of this thread regarding rear lower control arms and sort it out for us please?
Thanks
Mike

Dacon · Aug 31, 2014

Some rear lower info - http://www.maximummotorsports.com/tech_rear_susp_rlca.aspx

MFE92 · Aug 31, 2014

Don't use stock replacement shocks like Monroe or Gabriel for anything but stock springs.

Tune First?or Wait

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man

skiwesser11

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man

skiwesser11

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man

Dacon

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MFE92

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