I am wondering if my car needs a tune. It seems to be running a little lean and idles rough occasionally. I have a a o/r x pipe, pypes pype bomb exhaust, k&n cone, 70mm bbk throttle body, egr delete. Do I need a tune? Or would getting a tune help net some more power? Thanks!
You need to run the codes and fix any that show up. If those are the only mods you have you don't need a tune. A tune will not "fix" any problem code issues you probably have. If you aren't aware of what a code is... Then do some searches on here and report back.
It doesnt have any codes. after running the snot out of it for a bit itll idle like it has a monster cam for a little while. And it runs great, just runs lean, I know it does because when I pulled the plugs to check them they were extremely white.
I realize I "dont need a tune" because it still runs... But for it to run at a correct a/f ratio etc it would need a tune right? I know the ecm will adjust to a certain point, adjusting and being tuned to where it should be are two totally different things.
You removed all the smog equipment including the EGR and you have no codes? I find that hard to believe. Removing the CEL normally causes a CEL as well. I bet when you run the codes, you will get a 41,91 and most likely 31 ,33, 34 unless you have a tune. Is your charcoal cannister also removed?
Regardless, the EEC is trying to figure out what is going on with all those parts removed, as well as with the underhood cone filter that is sucking in hot engine air.
Not trying to lecture anyone, but removing the EGR and charcoal cannister frees up 0 hp and causes all kinds of problems in most cases. My EGR is gone but only because I have a tune.
I know the egr is gone, canister and smog pump are are there, all from PO. I have the cervinis ram air hood. So it should be getting somewhat fresh air in there. (thats from PO as well, I am going to change that) Maybe it has a chip already. I will look into it.
if you know the EGR is gone, then you also know that codes will be thrown as well as the CEL unless you have a tune. The cone filter picks up the fan wash and hot air regardless of a ram air hood that enters air up and behind the filter. Heat rises so I am not following your logic.
You may or may not have a chip. Open up the passenger side kick panel and see.
You still need to run the codes to determine what is causing your issues.
And just for an example...my car with similar mods actually ran rich/not lean. I expect an O2 sensor but impossible to know until you run the codes. This process is a diagnostic tool. It will help point you in the correct direction. If codes are present it doesn't necessarily throw a CEL
Yu have codes. You just aren't running the test properly.
If your EGR is deleted, there is a code...a pretty major one at that.
You need to run the codes with the engine off, and then AGAIN with the engine running. Two sets of codes.
And the check engine light doesn't need ot be on for there to be codes present. You also didn't mention what model and year you have, because 86-88's don't even have a CEL
Sounds like the previous owner left you with a mess. Put the EGR system back on, give it a tune up and see how it runs. You don't need to start wasting money on a tune with just those bolt ons.
Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs
Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.
Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.
Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.
Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.
What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems
Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see Equus Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.