Hmmm yeah tough choice. I have all the time in the world, but funding might be an issue... I'm definitely on a budget
I would too, but you gotta PAY and waaaiiiiit for his stuff. I was merely suggesting this for the balla on a budget - the guy that throws quarters at strippers BC he can't make it rain.
I don't mean to argue. It goes without saying that Woody's product is far superior that the mass produced engine I linked to and you do indeed get what you pay for. To the OP, if you have the cash, by all means, go the route suggested by the two gents above.
in the end 500hp is 500hp, it doesnt matter if you make it with cubic inches, or forced induction, or chemical supercharging. the fuel curves are going to be about the same, as are the power curves. the real difference is going to be the initial cost, and the on going costs. how many dollars do you want to go fast?
in the end 500hp is 500hp, it doesnt matter if you make it with cubic inches, or forced induction, or chemical supercharging. the fuel curves are going to be about the same, as are the power curves. the real difference is going to be the initial cost, and the on going costs. how many dollars do you want to go fast?
For the engine alone, Somewhere along the lines of 5-7k would be best.
Just curious how would you build an engine capable of 500+hp reliably for that price? I understand throwing forced induction at a 302 for that range but then you're pushing the limits of the block. Maybe LS swap? But then all the extras start adding up. Idk. I've been trying to figure out the most economical,durable,and simplistic way to get 500+ and personally want to stay sbf(which obviously is a narrow approach)best for what? an economical build? only if someone else does all the work. best for making power? if i were to spend $5-7000 on an engine, i would expect to make much more than 500hp.
Just curious how would you build an engine capable of 500+hp reliably for that price? I understand throwing forced induction at a 302 for that range but then you're pushing the limits of the block. Maybe LS swap? But then all the extras start adding up. Idk. I've been trying to figure out the most economical,durable,and simplistic way to get 500+ and personally want to stay sbf(which obviously is a narrow approach)
^^ Best of luck with that...you spend your money wisely, and you do most of the work yourself. you can for instance build a 393w very cheaply, you just need the crank, and use stock type 351w rods with stock type 302 pistons. you can be in the short block for about a $1000 perhaps a bit more depending on the labor rates in your area for machine work. good aluminum heads these days are fairly cheap at around $1200 for a pair, and another $500 in cam lifters intake and carb and headers, and with the right combination you have built an engine pushing 550hp that is still quite streetable.
Where's that deal?$500 in cam lifters intake and carb and headers.
Again just curious but why? For simplicity? That turbo setup has to be bada**! The "big cubes" have been my plan but am kinda enthralled by a 363 turbo lately. After owning yours what don't you like and which would you choose if you were going to do it again?5-7 k for a complete motor is stock block land for sure. For a full on street car I like the idea of big cubes and NA
I have been considering going back to NA swap the cam and rev to 6700 rpms
Agree 100% on EFI vs carb and on the being able to afford it. I personally have set my budget at 20k for mine including the trans. Was hoping for 750hp or so but now I think I'm going to lower my expectations of that power range(and hopefully the cost).There are good ways to save money. Shopping around on Summit and picking parts based on price is not the way to do it. Especially when it comes to camshafts. $100 difference in camshaft cam mean the difference between a 250hp engine and a 350hp engine. I have heard of doing the 393cid engine with stock 302 pistons and stock 351 rods. I don't disagree that's a good budget build. Generally speaking though, if you are that short on money, then you aren't going to spend the money you need on the top end, and you would have been better off with a 302 anyway. Fuel injection parts are so cheap now, there is no advantage to gettting a carb.
Kurt
and to further whet your appetite, here is an intake that would work on a 393w;
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-226054/overview/make/ford
note the price for a NEW one.
get the idea now? the cheap flat tappet cam and lifters in less than $200, the intake is just over $200, you can buy a used carb for about $50 and a good rebuild kit for $50, and viola, cam, lifters, intake, and carb for $500 and that is using pretty much all new parts except the carb.
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