Stock block will put up with around 450rwhp-500rwhp. I wouldn't push it to the high end if i were you, especially if you are going to drive this thing hard.
Aluminum blocks are nice and all, but you are talking about a serious amount of money for the block alone. By the time you build the shortblock you will have spent your entire 7 grand.
If you are going with a turbo on a stock block stroker, a turbo will serve little to no purpose. You can get 400-425rwhp out of a 347. Not sure thousands of bucks to get another 50rwhp will be worth it.
Here's my opinion, either use the shortblock you have now (not sure what condition you said it was in, if you need another shortblock use and explorer engine), Add some TW's, with a good cam and intake. Drive it around and have some fun, while you build yourself a stroker. Then go from there. You have to walk before you can run. You don't know where your life or finances will be in 2 years and you don't want to be just another jackass that fails to meet their goals and has a pile of worthless junk in their driveway.
The TW's are good because they can be Cnc'ed to work better on a stroker in the future.
Too many guys come here with these big plans. Most disappear and never finish. Set some obtainable goals and grow with the car. You don't need to go from 200rwhp to 500rwhp. These cars are way lighter than a new car, 325rwhp is quite a bit of power in a fox.
To build an all around effective 500rwhp fox, it takes 15-20 grand. Suspension, rear, trans, this crap adds up. Get it going with the HCI then move on to rest of the car. When the rest is done, come back to the engine.
Shouldn't be afraid to boost a stock block. It is VERY difficult to get the stock block to max power without a power adder of some sort.
It can be done N/A but in most circumstances those motors are nearly undrivable on the street.
Boost the crap out it... Just use some sense and put it in the safe zone.
IMO, screw type blowers are the way to go with a stock block. You can reach 450+ HP pretty easily and your ENTIRE torque curve looks like a shelf that you can put books on from just off idle.
The only downside to my plan is that there are very few intercooled solutions for a Windsor. Water/meth is best way to cure these issues but many of the offerings have reservoirs that are just to small (also an easy fix).
The difference is night an day and you don't ever have to wait to build boost. It's a great package given the limitations of the block itself.
With the right turbo there is very little lag, top end charge will be much more fun as well.
Stock block will put up with around 450rwhp-500rwhp. I wouldn't push it to the high end if i were you, especially if you are going to drive this thing hard.
Aluminum blocks are nice and all, but you are talking about a serious amount of money for the block alone. By the time you build the shortblock you will have spent your entire 7 grand.
If you are going with a turbo on a stock block stroker, a turbo will serve little to no purpose. You can get 400-425rwhp out of a 347. Not sure thousands of bucks to get another 50rwhp will be worth it.
Here's my opinion, either use the shortblock you have now (not sure what condition you said it was in, if you need another shortblock use and explorer engine), Add some TW's, with a good cam and intake. Drive it around and have some fun, while you build yourself a stroker. Then go from there. You have to walk before you can run. You don't know where your life or finances will be in 2 years and you don't want to be just another jackass that fails to meet their goals and has a pile of worthless junk in their driveway.
The TW's are good because they can be Cnc'ed to work better on a stroker in the future.
Too many guys come here with these big plans. Most disappear and never finish. Set some obtainable goals and grow with the car. You don't need to go from 200rwhp to 500rwhp. These cars are way lighter than a new car, 325rwhp is quite a bit of power in a fox.
To build an all around effective 500rwhp fox, it takes 15-20 grand. Suspension, rear, trans, this crap adds up. Get it going with the HCI then move on to rest of the car. When the rest is done, come back to the engine.
I keep hearing that and turbos have come a long way in recent years but I've never been in one that was comparable. Twin screws really are like having just a much larger motor.
I think my next project will be a turbo though. The lack of an inter/after-cooler is a big limitation unless someone wants to do a ton of fabrication.
I agree with all except the 15-20 grand part for 500 on a stock blocked streeter. I'm probably out of touch with prices, but here's my best half-asssed shot (feel free to add to and/or correct):
Heads $1,500
Cam - $350
Intake - $500
Turbo - $2,500 (70mm for $500 + $1,500-$2k for parts & fab or $4k kit)
TKO - $2,000
Clutch - $500
Shifter - $200
Scattershield (bellhousing) - $200
Driveshaft safety loop - $100
Gears installed - $500
MAF, TB, Injectors, rockers, pullies, adjustable fuel regulator - $1,000
colder plugs, wires, distributor cap, fuel filter - $200
EEC Tune - $500
MSD Box + coil - $500
Torque box reinforcements - $500
springs, shocks, LCA/UCAs (not a wild suspension, but good enough for a streeter) - $800 (?)
Fuel pump + inline and boost-a-pump $350
Gauges - $500 (boost, fuel pressure, shift light)
Drag Radials - $400 (200 a tire?)
That's $12,250 for the parts I would want to do it right. So actually quite a bit more than I expected, but I'll post it anyway. Then again, I think that's all premium stuff purchased at mostly new. Could probably cut the part costs in half buying used stuff, though.
I agree with all except the 15-20 grand part for 500 on a stock blocked streeter. I'm probably out of touch with prices, but here's my best half-asssed shot (feel free to add to and/or correct):
Heads $1,500
Cam - $350
Intake - $500
Turbo - $2,500 (70mm for $500 + $1,500-$2k for parts & fab or $4k kit)
TKO - $2,000
Clutch - $500
Shifter - $200
Scattershield (bellhousing) - $200
Driveshaft safety loop - $100
Gears installed - $500
MAF, TB, Injectors, rockers, pullies, adjustable fuel regulator - $1,000
colder plugs, wires, distributor cap, fuel filter - $200
EEC Tune - $500
MSD Box + coil - $500
Torque box reinforcements - $500
springs, shocks, LCA/UCAs (not a wild suspension, but good enough for a streeter) - $800 (?)
Fuel pump + inline and boost-a-pump $350
Gauges - $500 (boost, fuel pressure, shift light)
Drag Radials - $400 (200 a tire?)
That's $12,250 for the parts I would want to do it right. So actually quite a bit more than I expected, but I'll post it anyway. Then again, I think that's all premium stuff purchased at mostly new. Could probably cut the part costs in half buying used stuff, though.
Not sure what you're referring to. Sure the twin screws have a crazy bottom and instantaneous response. If that's what you mean by saying it's like a larger motor, then I'm with you. Turbos are obviously peaky by comparison. Turbos are definitely and significantly stronger up top when sized for a given boost pressure on a given engine, though. At least, I've never seen any blower make more than a respectably efficient turbo in a same engine/same boost comparison. Actually, the tests I've seen aren't even close.
I mean, if you're comparing a 500rwhp Twin-screwed (TS) mustangs against a 500rwhp turbo mustang, I would assume that the top end will be equal. However, it would still be an interesting because I'm not sure which would have the higher torque peak. We know the TS would have the advantage off idle, but if the turbo keeps the RPM higher than the boost threshold, it'll get to peak boost within a second of WOT, and what happens after that would be interesting to see. That said, I feel pretty confident that a 500rwhp turbo 302 would be less likely to split than the 500rwhp TS 302. The TS302 is really putting more HP through the block and crank to offset the parasitic loss. The block stress would be equivalent to an N/A 302 with rwhp equal to 500 + parasitic loss. Not sure if that description is understandable.
Well, I specifically remember a breath-taking difference from a mag article from a long time ago. It was actually a blower comparison article. The same engine was used, and they compared Roots vs. TS vs. centri blowers at the same boost. The centri came out on top peak for peak, but the TS had more under the curve. Then for ****s and giggles, they put on a Turbo kit (helion if memory serves) and ran a couple lbs less boost through the motor. The difference was staggering. The Turbo came out on top by a gigantic margin - I'm thinking 100-ish hp. The low-end torque once the turbo spooled was off the charts, too. It must have been a MM&FF or 5.0 magazine... probably the former. I'll google it.
It would be interesting to read again, because I'm thinking that the TS blowers back then weren't the big ones they have today. The efficiency of the bigger ones would probably be more appropriate on our motors.
Still, if that article is indicative of the difference in efficiency + parasitic losses, then I think your 20-hp parasitic loss guess is off. I'd be interested in a more recent comparison.
Are you going 5lug or staying 4lug? I think the minimum I'd do is swap out to at least 31spline axles,differential,ford Motorsports ring and pinion(3.55's are a good compromise for the possible turbo or staying n/a) and a good diff cover. While the rearend is out reinforce the torque boxes and add some upper and lower controll arms from TeamZ Motorsports,UPR,or Maximum Motorsports. Also for struts and shocks I like the Strange engineering adj units. Grab some good springs,cc plates,and sub frame connectors and you're good.im going to take yalls advice and do h/c/i. but i will have plenty of extra cash as the winter goes on. what rear end options do i have? what about front and rear suspension?
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