• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Forced Induction Turbo Installed, Black Plugs And Fuel Smell...

  • Thread starter Thread starter madspeed
  • Start date Start date Aug 11, 2013
Prev
  • 1
  • 2
First Prev 2 of 2

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
3,254
204
South Jersey
Aug 12, 2013
#21
  • Aug 12, 2013
  • #21
madspeed said:
Just put in an hpx slot maf and the bov is vented to atmosphere. Maybe i should look into colder plugs, i believe the ngk numbering is opposite in that the higher numbers are colder
Click to expand...
Yes, with ngk the higher number equals colder plug. The more cylinder pressure the colder the plug needs to be.

Your Bov is more than likely your running rich problem. This needs to be recirculated to a point down stream of the maf on a car still equipped with a maf. All of the air that is taken into the engine is accounted for by your maf. When you vent some of the air it has already been accounted for by the computer which fuels your engine accordingly. So now you have less air going to the motor and more fuel. In essence you make a wot pass down the strip, top of the track your throttle blade closes and bov opens venting the excess pressure. The air that you were ingesting into the motor was counted and you're still fueling the motor as if it's ingesting all of that air. This leads to fouled plugs and a rich condition every time. The a/f will look good on accell but will go pig fat on decell. I hope my explanation makes sense, if not let me know.

Sharp looking setup you have there, btw.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Aug 12, 2013
#22
  • Aug 12, 2013
  • #22
Ok, great. Guess i'd better start reading up on how others piped the bov in! So just to clarify, it should be plumbed in after the maf and before the throttle body, correct?
 

f8tlfiveo

My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
Aug 8, 2007
1,585
102
64
Lancaster, PA
Aug 12, 2013
#23
  • Aug 12, 2013
  • #23
Why can't the bov be before the maf? Then it would be venting unmetered air.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Aug 12, 2013
#24
  • Aug 12, 2013
  • #24
actually not, as it was already entered into the system pre maf
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Aug 12, 2013
#25
  • Aug 12, 2013
  • #25
84Ttop said:
I prefer the -10 NGK's in anything with boost or a lot of spray. We run the -8's in all of the N/A cars. I would keep the gap at .028. I run mine at .024 and that has been fine at well over 30 lbs of boost. The target a/f for mine to idle is 13.7 so I don't think you are far off the mark with that.
Do you run a blow through maf? Does your blow off recirculate or vent to the atmosphere? If it recirculates, before of after the maf?
Click to expand...


Damn, I guess you need them with that much boost?

This is copied from the Turbo Forums...


Aftermarket aluminum heads (TFS, Edelbrock, AFR, Canfield, Brodix) NGK Forced Induction
R5671-A8 Stock Number 4554, 1 heat range Colder (up to about 600rwhp)
R5671–A9 Stock Number 5238, for 18+psi, 2 heat ranges colder 650+ rwhp
R5671–A10 Stock Number 5820, for race cars.

Read more at: http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/281795-Spark-Plug-FAQ
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
3,254
204
South Jersey
Aug 13, 2013
#26
  • Aug 13, 2013
  • #26
madspeed said:
Ok, great. Guess i'd better start reading up on how others piped the bov in! So just to clarify, it should be plumbed in after the maf and before the throttle body, correct?
Click to expand...
Exactly!

madspeed said:
Damn, I guess you need them with that much boost?

This is copied from the Turbo Forums...


Aftermarket aluminum heads (TFS, Edelbrock, AFR, Canfield, Brodix) NGK Forced Induction
R5671-A8 Stock Number 4554, 1 heat range Colder (up to about 600rwhp)
R5671–A9 Stock Number 5238, for 18+psi, 2 heat ranges colder 650+ rwhp
R5671–A10 Stock Number 5820, for race cars.

Read more at: http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/281795-Spark-Plug-FAQ
Click to expand...
I modify that general rule of thumb personally.
-8 All motor
-9 Boost up to 12lbs or Nitrous up to 150
-10 Everything else

I know a lot of guys that run the -8's and -9's in other stuff and have no trouble. We just switched my buddy from autolights to -10's is a stock block 302 tfs top and 175 shot and he just made his best passes ever. 1.47 60' and 10.79 We pull #1 on his every pass to check a plug and these burn so much nicer than the autolights he was running before.

How was the new tune you got from willie?
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Aug 13, 2013
#27
  • Aug 13, 2013
  • #27
Got the tune loaded, but not ran yet, fricken rain here...
 

HotFox

15 Year Member
Jan 5, 2009
1,057
670
164
SE Michigan
Aug 13, 2013
#28
  • Aug 13, 2013
  • #28
NGK has a great tech line. Call them I always call them any time I have a question on the more nontraditional stuff. They will ask for compression ratio and boost and recommend a plug and gap.

Scott
 

David Pepiton

Active Member
Dec 17, 2011
662
68
49
Laveen, Arizona
Aug 13, 2013
#29
  • Aug 13, 2013
  • #29
yeah running rich for sure I would go with the -10's and get some time on the dyno with an extra set or two of plugs.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Aug 14, 2013
#30
  • Aug 14, 2013
  • #30
@84Ttop,

" Your Bov is more than likely your running rich problem. This needs to be recirculated to a point down stream of the maf on a car still equipped with a maf. All of the air that is taken into the engine is accounted for by your maf. When you vent some of the air it has already been accounted for by the computer which fuels your engine accordingly. So now you have less air going to the motor and more fuel. In essence you make a wot pass down the strip, top of the track your throttle blade closes and bov opens venting the excess pressure. The air that you were ingesting into the motor was counted and you're still fueling the motor as if it's ingesting all of that air. This leads to fouled plugs and a rich condition every time. The a/f will look good on accell but will go pig fat on decell. I hope my explanation makes sense, if not let me know. "

my a/f looks good on accel, and goes lean as expected on decell. Im installing new plugs this evening and will do some datalogs
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
3,254
204
South Jersey
Aug 15, 2013
#31
  • Aug 15, 2013
  • #31
madspeed said:
@84Ttop,

" Your Bov is more than likely your running rich problem. This needs to be recirculated to a point down stream of the maf on a car still equipped with a maf. All of the air that is taken into the engine is accounted for by your maf. When you vent some of the air it has already been accounted for by the computer which fuels your engine accordingly. So now you have less air going to the motor and more fuel. In essence you make a wot pass down the strip, top of the track your throttle blade closes and bov opens venting the excess pressure. The air that you were ingesting into the motor was counted and you're still fueling the motor as if it's ingesting all of that air. This leads to fouled plugs and a rich condition every time. The a/f will look good on accell but will go pig fat on decell. I hope my explanation makes sense, if not let me know. "

my a/f looks good on accel, and goes lean as expected on decell. Im installing new plugs this evening and will do some datalogs
Click to expand...

I would be interested to see one of your data logs if you don't mind sending me one.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Aug 15, 2013
#32
  • Aug 15, 2013
  • #32
I'll be installing new plugs today and will take a few datalogs with the updated tune.
 
Prev
  • 1
  • 2
First Prev 2 of 2
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Resolved 93 Mustang 5.0 - Cranks but does not start
  • dan50
  • Jul 18, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
6
Views
156
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Jul 18, 2026
dan50
SURGING IDLE / NO IDLE CHECKLIST FOR 1999–2004 MUSTANG GT (4.6L 2V) - Work In Progress
  • Noobz347
  • Aug 30, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
934
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Aug 30, 2025
Noobz347
SURGING IDLE / NO IDLE CHECKLIST FOR 1996–1998 MUSTANG GT (4.6L 2V) - Work In Progress
  • Noobz347
  • Aug 30, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
753
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Aug 30, 2025
Noobz347
Fuel 19lbs EV6 fuel injectors, what fuel pressure???
  • PonyGTrider
  • Jul 11, 2024
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
  • 6 7 8
Replies
144
Views
11K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Jul 25, 2024
PonyGTrider
B
94 cobra possible idle issue?
  • Bowen94
  • Feb 15, 2024
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech
Replies
11
Views
2K
1994 - 1995 Specific Tech Feb 16, 2024
Noobz347
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?