Turn Signal / Convertible Top

[TomzGT]

I recently had to replace the smart junction box on my 2006 Mustang GT convertible due to some water leakage. They are really hard to find. I went to an excellent place called RareFab in South Florida that reprogrammed it. However, not everything was working properly. I've replaced all the relays and fuses for the convertible top and it still won't work. Also, the left turn signal, middle bulb, is out. I've replaced it twice and I get that fast flashing. Any suggestions? I really want to keep this car because the engine works really well and I've had no issues with it at all.

 

[Noobz347]

For the convertible top: Have you tried applying power directly to the motor to see if it works?

For the turn signal: It sounds like there is a short in the wiring or assembly. I'd start at the assembly and work my way back with a multimeter. Triple-check that you are using the correct bulbs. Ditch any LED upgrades (at least temporarily).

 

[TomzGT]

Thanks for your reply. The signal worked this morning - and then stopped working again.
I'm good but I'm not great at these electrical things - how do I apply power to the convertible motor?

 

[Noobz347]

There are a couple of different ways you can do this but...

Locate the motor and disconnect any electrical lines.
Dig up a 12V power source whether it be a battery, a power supply, whatever, and a couple of jumper wires.
Apply 12V directly to the motor and see if it moves. You don't have to put the top up or down, you only need to see if the motor comes alive.

If so, You have a wiring issue. Perhaps even a bad ground and/or something in common with your other electrical gremlin(s).

You can count on the turn signal problem returning. I'd bet a dollar on it. I'd also bet that it's worse on days that are humid.

If the motor does jump to life, your next step will be to service the thing with hydraulic fluid before doing anything else.

 

[Noobz347]

Do you have an old 12v accessory floating around that doesn't work anymore?

Cut the cord off of it and use it for your 12V power source. Don't dross the leads. In fact, crimp some alligator clips onto it and don't even plug it into the socket until you've made [certain] that is correctly connected to your test component.

Also: These are cheap and this [really] the way to go because it is fused. Although, the majority of the ones you cut from dead devices are also usually fused. Either way, that and a bag of alligator clips go a long way.

Amazon product ASIN B06XX25HFX
View: https://www.amazon.com/WGGE-WG-026-Pieces-Colors-Alligator/dp/B06XX25HFX/ref=sr_1_10?crid=MP7MIPRBMU2C&keywords=12V+cig+socket+test+lead&qid=1677200693&sprefix=12v+cig+socket+test+lead%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-10
So does an El-Cheapo multi-meter and test light:

Amazon product ASIN B088KBG1LJ
View: https://www.amazon.com/CAMWAY-Continuity-Resistance-Capacitance-Flashlight/dp/B088KBG1LJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2WX99LWOILE8J&keywords=multimeter&qid=1677200742&s=goldbox&sprefix=multimete%2Cspecialty-aps%2C176&sr=8-3&srs=517808
It might look scary at first if not familiar but it's not. Lots of Youtube videos on how to use this to test (I mean tons).

Amazon product ASIN B08SM1GB1T
View: https://www.amazon.com/TuNan-6V-12V-24V-Professional-Continuity-Automotive/dp/B08SM1GB1T/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1XGVO7GIJGSCX&keywords=12V+test+light&qid=1677200855&sprefix=12v+test+ligh%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-4
Worth their weight in gold.

Other than that, some common hand tools to do most little jobs. A few more hand tools and a good jack and stand kit to remove and replace just about anything else but enough of that... If you stick around long enough you'll discover all of this.

 

[TomzGT]

There are a couple of different ways you can do this but...

Locate the motor and disconnect any electrical lines.
Dig up a 12V power source whether it be a battery, a power supply, whatever, and a couple of jumper wires.
Apply 12V directly to the motor and see if it moves. You don't have to put the top up or down, you only need to see if the motor comes alive.

If so, You have a wiring issue. Perhaps even a bad ground and/or something in common with your other electrical gremlin(s).

You can count on the turn signal problem returning. I'd bet a dollar on it. I'd also bet that it's worse on days that are humid.

If the motor does jump to life, your next step will be to service the thing with hydraulic fluid before doing anything else.

Thank you for your reply. I always learn something. Yes, the turn-signal problem comes and goes. I'll have to live with it. I tried what you suggested about the motor. It did come to life. I suspect my problem is really with that smart junction box. I checked all the fuses and there is also power. Now I need to find someone reputable in South Florida who can look at the electrical. Thanks again.