Tweecer Tuning A Mild Boost Setup- Help

Basic things you need to address are injector slopes, breakpoint, and the Maf transfer. Maf transfer is going to be hard unless you have a flow sheet, which i dont think C&L's have. I would think that since you have the tweecer and are getting it tuned, it would be better to just ditch the FMU and pick up some 42's.(I have injectors and a matching Pro m for sale ) As a bonus, i can set you up with a base tune for the 42's and maf. Otherwise, thats a starting point. You should also check the tweecer forums, they'll be able to give you more help.

I think there is a pre-loaded maf calibration for the C&L 73mm with caledit, try loading it up and test it out.

You are gonna hav troubles with the FMU. I would get rid of it and get 30# or bigger injectors.

Don't need a maf transfer for the C&L.... just multiply the stock transfer by the ratio 19# injectors tio whatever the C&L is calibrated to (tube wise)...close enough, you can fine tune from there.

Small changes.... Time at high load to force open loop... set to 0 seconds... Leave the factory rev limit at 6500, but reset the fuel cuts to wherever your cam quits.... leave it with 50 rpm hysteresis between fuel on and off. Set base timing to 6 or 8degrees depending on boost, then add 8-9 degrees closed throttle spark, 8-10 degrees at part throttle spark. If she surges at idle, try reducing timing there.

Dunno if you wanna get into load scaling or not... the "purists" insist you gotta do this.... us old guys that never had tweecer, eec tuners, SCT etc..... know that the car should run perfectly well with matched maf/injectors... if you are having problems, chances are something else is wrong.

Mild boost on the supercharger will only REQUIRE changes to WOT spark and fuel....but an FMU sure can make a gawd awefull mess of your fuel curves...

I agree, get rid of the FMU. As for the timing, i always thought were supposed to set the base to 10 and then use the tweecer to modify it from there?