Two questions on TrickFlow install instructions

GT_Rich

Member
Dec 11, 2005
172
0
17
North Canton, OH
1. When checking P to V clearance, they say to use a solid mock-up lifter. I do not have one, nor do I know how to make one or why I even need to go to the trouble of making one. The lifters I'm re-using have 30k miles on them. What are my options? Can I buy a mock-up check tool? Can I use different acceptable clearances with the actual components?

2. Dowel Pins - the instructions say to replace with new. All four of mine are in the block right now, and in there pretty good. Why can't I re-use?

Thanks,
 
As far as checking P to V clearance I have always heard of using the clay method. Lay a layer of modeling clay on one of pistons. Put the head on and crank the motor over by hand a few times. Take the head back off and check the imprint of the valve in the clay. This will give you an idea of how close you are to contact with the piston.

I am sure you would be fine with using the old dowels if they are still in the block and look good. You have to ask yourself is it worth the chance though of something going wrong? You can get new ones for a few bucks so it might just be worth it to replace them to be sure.
 
I'm well aware of the clay method. TrickFlow suggests using a solid mock-up lifter with the clay method! That was the point of my question.

I know the dowel pins are cheap. I'm more concerned with getting the old ones out without damaging something. That's why I'd like to re-use them.

Thanks,
 
You need the solid lifter because the engine isnt running, therefore the lifter wont be fully "pumped up" If you can get your hands on an old stock roller lifter, you can turn it into a solid mockup lifter. Maybe swing by your local junk yard or machine shop. Just remember, you will need longer pushrods with the trickflow heads.
 
How much does a running motor "pump up" a lifter? How do you convert a scrap lifter into a solid mock-up lifter?

You remove the retaining clip from the top of the lifter, then take out the plunger and spring. Go get some #10 washers, and stack them up inside the lifter...Then re assemble it with just the plunger and retaining clip. It's now going to act "solid".
(as in it won't depress.) The preload of the hydraulic lifter is between .020"-.060"
You will also need an adjustable pushrod, and trickflow sells a good one for $12.
Good luck