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Two questions. . .

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1965-Mustang
  • Start date Start date Jul 16, 2005
1

1965-Mustang

New Member
Nov 25, 2003
85
0
0
Jul 16, 2005
#1
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #1
Ok first I swapped my old siezed 65 289 out with a rebuilt 66 289. The engine I got seems to have a 70's style water pump as the bottom inlet is on the drivers side. I seem to be having radiator/fan fitment problems and was wondering if the 70's one has a longer shaft on the front which would cause my fan to be really close to the rad? Also the timing mark thing is hidden behind the bottom inlet so I cant seem to time the engine to an exact degree.

Second is I could not remember or possibly lost the nuts that attach the motor to the motor mounts. This is probably a stupid question but I'm sure this part is important so the motor does not come up. I put on some washers and the biggest fitting locking nut I could find at my local hardware store but I keep thinking that this is a problem and am scared to drive it hard when I get it going again. As cool as a new fiberglass shelby hood sounds I cant afford one right now if this engine kills mine now.

Thanks.
 

krash kendall

Active Member
Nov 19, 2004
1,258
0
36
Aldergrove, B.C. Canada
Jul 16, 2005
#2
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #2
This topic is already active HERE.
 
C

chemeng

New Member
Feb 21, 2004
93
0
0
Louisville, KY
Jul 16, 2005
#3
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #3
The motor mount attaches to an L shaped bracket that has a stud in it. The stud goes into a bracket with one nut to hold it in place. You can place washers to use as shims to raise the motor up to allow the fan to clear the shroud.
I had a creep problem, the motor would creep over to the passenger side, it was sliding on the 4 washers I needed to raise the motor. Got tired of adjusting every couple of weeks and got the '66 motor mounts, uses a different mounting system and the mounts are stronger. The good news, they use the same mounting holes as the '65.
If you got a locking nut on there just make sure it's tight, if you start some engine mods to up HP, think about swapping out. MikeR
 

dennis112

15 Year Member
May 15, 2005
1,561
36
79
Amish Wonderland of Central PA.
Jul 17, 2005
#4
  • Jul 17, 2005
  • #4
Not sure what is going on with your water pump. The 65' style hugs the block pretty well and will give you maybe 1" fan to radiator clearance with a stock fan. I use the 65' pump and pulleys on my 351w and had no clearance issues using the stock 4 blade fan. Currently I am using a 4 row radiator and a 3" total length clutch fan and still maintain 3/4" clearance. See the other post referenced above to get the proper combo pump/radiator/pulley/timing marks, and balancer.

I suggest you measure your fan spacer and purchase a slightly shorter one if you don't want to tackle the above referenced changes. Try to maintain 3/4-1" clearance but don't get much further away or cooling will suffer. Most autoparts stores, such as Advance, sell them in various lengths (or check the local boneyard.) Also plan on a hardware store run to purchase shorter length, fine thread bolts.

The 65' mounts with locking nuts should work just fine.

If you want to beef up the 65' rubber mounts, it is easily done. I used this method with my stroker: http://www.erareplicas.com/fiaman/engine/mountmod.htm
I won't even need a torque strap now.

As a side note, the 65' type mounts are great for hood clearances as they tend to drop the engine approximately 1" lower than the 66' and newer mounts. The only real issue is that header clearances are usually improved with a raised engine.
 
1

1965-Mustang

New Member
Nov 25, 2003
85
0
0
Jul 17, 2005
#5
  • Jul 17, 2005
  • #5
Thanks for the replies!
My old 65 water pump would not fit on the new 66 engine. I looked this up and found I had an early 65 water pump casting and it would not fit on later years. So I am using the water pump that came on the new engine, which I believe is a 70 pump as the shaft is much longer. I put them up next to eachother and it is longer, that is why I have clearance problems with the old spacer. So I actually already ordered and have a 1" spacer but I'm not sure if I should even use that as the pumps shaft seems like it will put the fan to far into my new rad and shroud. I never had a shroud before and I think I'm supposed to put half fan in and half out.

I'll try and get some pics.

I'm just so worried because I just put 8 huge holes in my brand new direct fit Griffin rad I paid $350 for because the engine shifted after I started it and the fan took it out. This one I have is from Crites restoration and is a howe rad with shroud. I am currently mounting the rad into the car and will post pics when I'm done also.
Thanks.
 
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