• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Engine Unique Intake Setup N/A (363 Stroker)

  • Thread starter Thread starter DonMaximo
  • Start date Start date Mar 25, 2013
D

DonMaximo

Member
Sep 25, 2003
217
5
19
Lewisville, Texas
Mar 25, 2013
#1
  • Mar 25, 2013
  • #1
Gents,

I'm building a 363" off a new Man-o-war aluminum SBF block for a naturally aspirated, EFI, setup. All SCAT 4340 internals zero balanced, Aluminum flywheel. With my Cam selection, my sweet spot is expected to be in the 6000-6500 range.
Application: 50% Road Race, 50% hopper.
In short, I'm going to be moving a lot more air, but I'm still naturally aspirated.

My initial choice, which is a good one, is the Edelbrock Victor 5.0 EFI setup.

I was considering however, the Edelbrock Lower EFI Victor intake (#29285) whose lower intake already has injector bungs and it looks more like a carbureted intake than what was offered through 1995.

What I'm curious about, but cannot find, is 'accurate' information on using an Edelbrock (EFI) #29285 intake, with a Spider plenum.

I have seen these setups on sbf motors with power-adders, but it's rare to see them with N/A. Someone commented on a website, that these single plane intakes don't work well with the EEC-IV of my 1992 A9L. But this remark does not sit well with me, particularly since my wifes' 4.6 GT stock setup uses a lower intake with plenum on top.

What shortcomings or problems do you see with this consideration ?

thoughts ?

Thank you,
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
3,254
204
South Jersey
Mar 25, 2013
#2
  • Mar 25, 2013
  • #2
Personally for me I like the lower intake manifold choice. I disagree with the plenum however. I would much rather see a 4150 style throttle body on a normally aspirated car. Air flow inside the plenum will be far more equal between the runners with a 4150 type throttle body not to mention I believe they just flow more air.

More importantly why are you choosing an aluminum block? A cast iron block will make more horse power all day long and unless you need the weight savings then I see no need.

Which heads will you be running and what kind of flow numbers?

How much horse power do you expect to see with your combo?

Any inside line on the secret squirrel cam?
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,387
2,745
194
Kearney, NE
Mar 26, 2013
#3
  • Mar 26, 2013
  • #3
Why would a cast iron block make more power? If there are cylinder liners and it is thick enough to hold up, I am not seeing a problem except for cost.
 
Reactions: DonMaximo

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
350
134
Mar 26, 2013
#4
  • Mar 26, 2013
  • #4
I am doing an 8.2 deck super victor, you can get them with injector bungs already cast in, and ready for edelbrock fuel rails. The intake is 399, and the rails are about 70 or 80 bucks i think. I am confident this intake will outperform the TFS box-r intake just about everywhere on my 7000rpm 345'' SBF.

Here are some of the challenges you will run into with this intake... There is no PCV port, not a problem for me, because i run a -12an line from the valve cover to a catch can. There is no good way to make the coolant tube work IMO. Easy fix, i put the coolant temp sensor in the water neck(had the boss in it tapped to 3/8'' NPT), then ran a 5/8'' straight fitting in the intake, to a cut water pump to intake elbow, then used an adapter fitting to a straight tube, ran that to the heater core tube, and connected it there with another adapter. On the return side, i did another straight hose between the heater core hose, and the WP hose. It sounds complicated, but all this stuff i bought can be found in the radiator hose repair section at autozone. Check out the pic below.



The 4150 throttle body makes a little more work, but if you have a standalone ECU, its the way to go VS an 90mm and elbow.
 
D

DonMaximo

Member
Sep 25, 2003
217
5
19
Lewisville, Texas
Mar 26, 2013
#5
  • Mar 26, 2013
  • #5
84Ttop said:
Personally for me I like the lower intake manifold choice. I disagree with the plenum however. I would much rather see a 4150 style throttle body on a normally aspirated car. Air flow inside the plenum will be far more equal between the runners with a 4150 type throttle body not to mention I believe they just flow more air.

More importantly why are you choosing an aluminum block? A cast iron block will make more horse power all day long and unless you need the weight savings then I see no need.

Which heads will you be running and what kind of flow numbers?

How much horse power do you expect to see with your combo?

Any inside line on the secret squirrel cam?
Click to expand...

For Road Racing --- this block alone is 110 lbs less than it's iron brethren. With a K-member/Control-arm install, I'm removing "150lbs" from the front-end.

To suggest that an aluminum block cannot produce the same HP as a comparable iron block is just advertising a lack of knowledge I'm afraid. In fact, an aluminum block with aluminum heads are far more compatible combination than iron block/aluminum heads.
Iron and Aluminum do not expand and contract at same rate.
 

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
350
134
Mar 26, 2013
#6
  • Mar 26, 2013
  • #6
DonMaximo said:
To suggest that an aluminum block cannot produce the same HP as a comparable iron block is just advertising a lack of knowledge I'm afraid. In fact, an aluminum block with aluminum heads are far more compatible combination than iron block/aluminum heads.
Iron and Aluminum do not expand and contract at same rate.
Click to expand...

Not to start an argument, but it is very possible that an iron block will make more power than an aluminum block due to the ability of the iron block to keep the rings sealed. On a naturally aspirated motor, it may not be much, but on a boosted motor, you might see a big difference.
 
D

DonMaximo

Member
Sep 25, 2003
217
5
19
Lewisville, Texas
Mar 26, 2013
#7
  • Mar 26, 2013
  • #7
90lxcoupe said:
Not to start an argument, but it is very possible that an iron block will make more power than an aluminum block due to the ability of the iron block to keep the rings sealed. On a naturally aspirated motor, it may not be much, but on a boosted motor, you might see a big difference.
Click to expand...

No argument necessary brother, here's a couple facts for the discussion

#1 ) Ford Cobras, Shelby/Shelby 500's, and Coyote engines are all aluminum blocks !
All high-end GM Stuff (Camaro's, Vette's, Caddies) are all using aluminum blocks.

#2) Aluminum blocks typically use ductile iron sleeves which is stronger than the cast iron sleeves in your conventional iron block.

#3) The Shelby GT500's come off the floor with a Supercharger and rated around 660HP in STOCK form.
Despite this difficult to plant power, guys are still swapping out for a Kenne Bell to get into the 900+HP range.

#4) There is an article, every month, in the Mustang rags about some guys who configured a
power-adder to his Coyote powered GT.

I think it's safe to assume that aluminum blocks, if provided with quality equipment, are up to the task of handling power-adders.

The deal I'm building now is a 8.2" Man-o-War which can be bored to 4.125" , is already clearanced for a 3.4" stroke (Total=363"), and has 5 billet steel main caps with splayed ARP2000 fasteners. My SCAT 4340 assembly is zero balanced and I'll be using an aluminum flywheel as a final touch since I'll be road racing it.
If I were to drag this car, I would have opted for a steel flywheel, to build that energy up at the line for the violent launch.

-D
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
3,254
204
South Jersey
Mar 26, 2013
#8
  • Mar 26, 2013
  • #8
I'm pretty engulfed in the racing scene myself and have crewed with outlaw 10.5, outlaw drag radial and x275 teams. You can not compare a production gt500 motor with a factory alum block to any cast iron block simply because the like does not exist in cast iron. To compare a 8.2deck cast to aluminum you certainly will make more hp in the cast block. Expansion of the two dissimilar metals is baloney, that's why we have mls gaskets and good hardware. 30 psi of boost for me with no sealing/expansion problems. The aluminum motors with the exemption given to billet blocks, move around, and move a lot. The cylinders move and there is more end play in the crank and cam under load. The advantage however is sliding out one sleeve for a repair and having the ability to weld the block should a rod or something seek day light..
I'm not saying that they don't hold up to power adders but at the level we are talking about they are certainly not cost effective.

Real world comparison here.. My buddies 434 Chevy in a cast iron man o war block made more hp, (almost 50) than with his 434 Chevy in an aluminum dart block. He needed the flexibility for the rebuilds more than anything so it was worth the trade off..

On a final note, and this is me being a wise ass. My buddies outlaw 10.5 Camaro a few years ago broke the mains out of his aluminum block a few times before he switched to a billet block (10,000$ unmachined) 702" big block with a psi pro mod screw blower about 3,300 hp and that's the truth
 
Reactions: gearheadboy and 90lxcoupe

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
3,254
204
South Jersey
Mar 26, 2013
#9
  • Mar 26, 2013
  • #9
One other note,

John Mihovets of accufab runs a cast iron 4.6 block in his promod car and has been 6.14 @ 236 in the 1/4 mile.

Maybe that's enough said? Lol
 

gearheadboy

15 Year Member
Jan 15, 2003
1,425
177
84
Greencastle Pa
Mar 26, 2013
#10
  • Mar 26, 2013
  • #10
84Ttop said:
I'm pretty engulfed in the racing scene myself and have crewed with outlaw 10.5, outlaw drag radial and x275 teams. You can not compare a production gt500 motor with a factory alum block to any cast iron block simply because the like does not exist in cast iron. To compare a 8.2deck cast to aluminum you certainly will make more hp in the cast block. Expansion of the two dissimilar metals is baloney, that's why we have mls gaskets and good hardware. 30 psi of boost for me with no sealing/expansion problems. The aluminum motors with the exemption given to billet blocks, move around, and move a lot. The cylinders move and there is more end play in the crank and cam under load. The advantage however is sliding out one sleeve for a repair and having the ability to weld the block should a rod or something seek day light..
I'm not saying that they don't hold up to power adders but at the level we are talking about they are certainly not cost effective.

Real world comparison here.. My buddies 434 Chevy in a cast iron man o war block made more hp, (almost 50) than with his 434 Chevy in an aluminum dart block. He needed the flexibility for the rebuilds more than anything so it was worth the trade off..

On a final note, and this is me being a wise ass. My buddies outlaw 10.5 Camaro a few years ago broke the mains out of his aluminum block a few times before he switched to a billet block (10,000$ unmachined) 702" big block with a psi pro mod screw blower about 3,300 hp and that's the truth
Click to expand...
Just post the dyno video again...then maybe they'll understand. I know I do.
 
Reactions: 84Ttop and 88LX5.Oh

88LX5.Oh

15 Year Member
Dec 30, 2011
1,442
204
94
Arkansas
Mar 26, 2013
#11
  • Mar 26, 2013
  • #11
Cast iron 4.6 blocks can handle so much abuse. All those Termi guys rolling around with 800 wheel HP makes me want a Cobra lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

9
Forced Induction Prepping for supercharger on non-stock build
  • 91fox427
  • Nov 25, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
7
Views
394
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Jan 5, 2026
Qtrhrse23
Q
6
Hey all,I’m putting together a 302 for my 1968 Mustang and wanted to post the combo + some questions to make sure I’m not missing crucial
  • 68_Disgustang
  • Feb 22, 2026
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
791
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Jun 20, 2026
gray owl
G
SN95 Desktop 363 Engine Combination - Looking for input
  • WhiteCobra95
  • Sep 8, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
11
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Oct 6, 2025
Habu135
Engine HELP - 351W Based Build Under Stock Hood
  • thinkfaster
  • Oct 17, 2024
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
13
Views
2K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Dec 31, 2025
Qtrhrse23
Q
Which one of these 3 intakes make the most sense for my 331 combo
  • from6to8
  • Jul 25, 2024
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech
Replies
7
Views
2K
1994 - 1995 Specific Tech Jul 26, 2024
AeroCoupe
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?